Hey to all,

At the NE meet yesterday, I got the opportunity to finally clean my throttlebody...can we say DIRTY!?! ANyways after cleaning, I cranked her up and she fired up no problem until, one of the guys (can't quite remember his name) says..."dude you have an exhaust leak" I'm like....um....you're $hitting me...so Tom (4th Gen owner) hops in the car and finds out that I have a busted engine mount...(front) and that this helped contribute to the the broken stud. now for my questions....Can I change the engine mounts myself? (I've done both axles and fairly mechanically inclined) and how much to they cost? (where?)

2nd issue....when on the highway....between 65-75, the car really starts pulsating...it was worse before I changed the axles and has gotten better, but I can still feel it...can this be becuase of the busted engine mount? if not what else do you think it could be? ALso the pulsating dies down again around 80-85...

thanks for any help...this has really been bothering me...sorry for the length

 

That guy who helped you would be me! You can probably do the mounts yourself. You told me you did the drive shafts, the mounts aren't that big of a job. You will need a nice size pry bar to lift the engine up a little to get the mount out. Scope it out first, see what the job involves. I bet the mount is only like 35 bucks!

So when will the video of the TB cleaning be up????


Was nice meeting you! Let me know how you make out with the mount. Oh and did you notice any difference in your idle or throttle response after you cleaned the TB?

Catch you later.
Tom

 

Tom,
I mentioned your name...I wa talking about the 3rd gen guy....I'll try to get my girl friend to upload the vid....don't know if sounddomain will support it. I definately noticed improved performace of the throttle...started right up...wait u were there ...but drove well except for that stupid...pulse going through my car!...I think I'm gonna ,that is how bad it is.

 

I just did all 4 mounts on mine (89 SE 5-spd)...took about 4 hours start ot finish..I filled 'em a week before with polyurethane from Mcmaster Carr. I had to drop the entire engine cradle and supprt the drivtrain with a jack. I do recall the rear mount being difficult to remove without dropping the cradle. Yes, that's it, I supported the engine, removed the bolts for the mount, removed the 2 rear bolts for the cradle, loosened the front 2, and wiggled it out. Correct me if I'm wrong people, but I believe this is the only way to get it out. Also, If a rear manifold stud is broken, I suggest you fix that with the rear mount, y-pipe,sway bar etc removed. Fix the stud and the mount in one shot. Good luck getting that stud out!

By the way, I really like the look of your Max..Exactly my style. My opinion the nicest I've seen yet. Beautiful. Shows the clean lines of the car without interrupting it with body kits and rice wings. Peace

 

I mentioned the mount

 

Thanx...Eric...and male...I appreciate that...I was gonna put the original wing back on but its all f-ed up...so I'm gonna wait till I can afford a new one...or maybe I'll just get rid of it...I'm starting to like the car wingless...I think...but thanx again

 

Keep that trunklid smooth. I love the look of a mild custom wingless Maxima. Good luck with the repairs.

---Mike

 

Hey Mike,

Why did you fill them with Polyurethane...don't they come filled? also where did you get them and how much were they? Also the broken stud is up front...so it should be easier....I wonder if the Chilton will help with this work. I plan on doing it in a couple of weeks.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ht=motor+mount

 

They come with gaps in them, designed to flex. This eliminate unwanted engine vibrations and is easy on driveline components. I filled the gaps with 80 durometer polyurethane rubber from Mcmaster-carr..came to like 34 bucks shipped and was enought to fill all 4 mounts. Believe me, you want to do this. The factory mounts are really flimsy. They flex alot and this leads to our notorious and difficult broken exhaust manifold studs. Even filled with rubber they flex a little more than I like. If you install them as the factory produced them, they will not prevent future problems if you plan on keeping your ride for a while. With the amount of work you have in it, I assume you will. I would use the 94 durometer stuff from McMaster. Filling the gaps did not increase vibrations. In fact, it reduced them. I had been riding around with 4 broken mounts in it, vibration, clutch chatter and wheel hop were aweful. With the filled mounts, problems are all gone.

To fill the mounts, mix the rubber as directed, duct tape one side of the mount COMPLETELY sealing the gaps. This stuff is a rather thin liquid and will leak out. They also sell a 94 durometer gel, might be easier to work with. You may have to trim some flash out of the gaps to allow the liquid to fill the entire void. Wipe em down with denatured alcohol and fill. Let them set for 3-5 days before installation so it sets completely. Then drop 'em in and your good to go.

As for the stud, get a good Cobalt drill bit and use the best extractor you can find. The best I've seen were by Mac or Snap-on (I think). They have real sharp reverse threads and are designed to fit a hex drive socket, so you can work nice and slow. The other ones out there are designed to be used with a drill. Too big a chance of snapping it off or stripping your precisely placed hole down the center of the stud. Remember, those studs only need to be torqued to 15 ft-lb to seal (if it is even that much..check chilton, haynes or FSM). Too tight and they will break again in the future. Too much stress when they get hot and expand then cool and contract. Good luck , I hope this helps.

 

Thanx...man!...u aiight wit me

 

i did my mounts myself and i have VERY little mechanical experiance...

i just jacked up my motor by setting the jack under the oil pan... i know it prolly isnt a good idea but it worked for me without bending or breaking the oil pan..