I've been having some strange problemns with an automatic '94 Nissan Maxima GXE (4 door). It's at about $154,000 miles now. About two weeks ago, I began having some difficulty (especially in the colder mornings), keeping the car started. I would turn the key, the ignition would start, but then when I went to put it into drive or reverse, it would just conk out right away. Some mornings it would take me about fifteen try's before it would stay up and running. Seems strange though, because once I got it going, it would be fine (most of the time, would even be fine for the remainder of the day). So, I immediatly took it into my local Shell station for an inspection. The verdi ct that came back was bad. They told me that my distributor cap had a crack in it (very small one), and that it along with the rotor button would need replacing. They told me to expect about $80-100 in parts and labor for that. They also told me that their diagnostic computer report showed that the air flow sensor and the coolant sensor both needed to be replaced. All in all, I asked them what it would cost me to have all three of these items repaired and replaced, andf they told me somewhere in the $900-1000 range. Perhaps that sounds expensive, and it is, but I also live in Washington DC suburb. They also told me at this time that my transmission needed to be replaced sometime very soon and my entire exhaust manifold would also need be replaced within the next month or two, unless I wanted to have other problems down the road. Well, turns out I did not have them do any of the work right away. I wanted to do more homework and see if I could cut some price corners. So, after another inspection or two from other places, I finally decided to get advice from a friend, whom finally suggested that I should replace the crcaked distr. cap and rotor button, the air flow sensor and the cooland sensor myself. So, I went to a Yates auto store, and picked up the parts right away for the distrib. cap and rotor button. Those were esy to replace and I had no problems getting it on. In fact, I was prticularly carfeul to make sure the wires all got back on at the right places. I wanted to eliminate the problems. And even after the dist. cap and rotor button the car was still having the same difficulkties. So, then I went back to Yates and got a remade airflow sensor. When I went to put it on that day (being that I am auto repair illiterate), I forgot to unhook the battery leads. So, when I finally got it on, the car was ten times worse. It not only had trouble starting, but even when I would get it to start, it would only drive about two miles or so before the engine would start going into what I think of as "heaving", where it would sputtter, causing the rpm's to spike up and down, as if the car was surging. And then, of course, it would just conk out. It did this many times that first day after I had replaced the airflow unit. Once it left me stranded on the freeway. And the only way I could get it back up and running was to discoonect the battery, let it sit for awhile, and then rehook the battery leads. Then it would get back up and running for a short amount of time again, befoer it would go right back into the same sputter. Needless to say, I decided to go right away to a Nissan service center and get the problem checvked out by someone with the knowhow. Well, it was in the shop for two days. They could not figure out what was causing the problem. They ran every test in the book, and the only one that kept copming back was that the airflow sensor was still causing some kind of problem. So, they suggested that I go back to Yates and have them order me a true Nissan part, not one that hads been rebuilt. They to.ld me that Nissan cars really needed the true Nissan parts- kind of picky that way. So, I went, exchanged the rebuilt one for the new Nissan one and just paid the difference (which was nice of them, since all electronic parts like this are non-returnable/nonrefundable). Then I took the new true Nissan airflow sensor back to the Nissan service people and had them put it on for me (so as to eliminate any auto illiterateness on my part). Well, they got it on, and then ran all the tests again, and it came back as OK./ So, I came back to the service center to pick it up. They told me that everything shgould be fine and that I should have no more problems. Well, let me tell you, it wasn't but 50 seconds after I started the car to leave the service center when it sputtered and conked out on me again. So, I left it with them again for the rest of the day. When the next day rolled around they told me that the coolant sensor still might be the cause, and it had not yet been replaced. So, I had them put a new one on for me. Again, as I was driving the car out of the shop that afternoon, it did it again. Problem still unresolved. So, I left it with them for yet another day. The next day I get a phone call telling me they think they have finally found the problem- the wiring to the temperature sensor was bad. So, I had them replace all tht. Again, drove the caqr out of the shop and about an hour later it happpened again- same ****! And that is, alas, where this sytory ends., I have not done anything since. I have had test after test run on this car. Nobody seems to be able to figure it out. I asked the Nissan place whether or not they thought I may have blown the main ECU when making the first airflow sensor repair. They told me "no" and that their computer would have told them that if that was the real preoblem. The Nissan service people even admitted to me that they relly have no other ideas. And neither do I. The car is still having problems starting up (no matter what time of day). It still takes me about five or six try's before I can get the car up and running and I am able to place it in drive without it conking out. Each time it conks out, it puts on the "check engine" light and the "battery" light. Could this have anything to do with the battery itself? Do you think it may have anything to do still with the main computer? Do you think that it could have anything to do with the exhaust systems or the transmission (since these two also need to be replaced soon)??? I am at ropes end, and I'm not sure what to do..... HELP!!!!!!

 

to make this easier for everyone else why dont you just list the problems you are having rather than writing a story. Im not flamin, I just read about 1/4 of that & quit...to long for me =( sorry. just my $0.02.

 

Okay I've read this one. It sounds like you made it worse after replacing the maf. Disconnect the battery and put the old maf in. See if you getting back to running okay when warm. Since originally it ran okay when warm and bad only when cold, it sounds like something w/ the cold start mode. What rpms does it run at when you first start it?? Your TB could be really grimey and not allowing the engine to run at 1200-1500 or so rpm required by the cold start mode. If the rpms are not at that, the car might stall when you put in gear like you menioned. Your problem could also be the egr, pcv, fuel filter, air filter or other. If you haven't changed these for awhile you probably should anyway. You should check to see if the egr is working or not as it's fairly expensive to replace. Another possiblity is the spark plug wires. Bad ones will make your car run bad.

The tranny and exhaust should not have too much bearing w/ your engine's performance. Get the car running right first before tackling these.

Now, this is the internet. Although Nissan mechanics are a bunch of "replace and see" type mechanics, they also had the chance to actually look at the car. I'm trying to diagnois your car though a computer screen. Not the easist thing to do. But the above are a list of additional things that are fairly cheap to replace and could help.

 

Everything as Jeff said, but also has anyone checked the fuel injectors?

this shouldn't affect the cold start mode, but could do some weird stuff with the poor running in general..
as for the sputtering while driving, that sounds exactly like a MAF sensor problem.. I would put your old, original sensor back in and start over from there (just as jeff said).

make sure the connector holds well, as mine falls off every now and then and it's a lot of fun when the car tries to die in traffic.. fortunately mine's never died, but I have had to limp into a parking lot and reconnect the MAF.

good luck!

 

If you mean by maf, the "air flow sensor", I do not have the original. Tht went back to Yates auto supply when I realized I really needed a true Nissan part. So, that one is history at this point. I am also confused with some of the terminology you have used, since I am a complete idiot when it comes to this kind of stuff. What do the following terms refer to: TB, egr, pcv. Also, how expensive do you think this egr thing is? Can I also get that at Yates or other auto supply place? And are these other things, like the spark plus wires- do you think I should try stuff like that first since it sounds to me like those are really cheap to replace. Also, when I'm doing any of this work, I take it that I should probably unhook battery while performing any of these tasks? Sorry for long messages....

 

Hey Matt,

I believe the coil or the wire that is connected to the coil might be the problem. I had that type of problem on another type of car. The car would do the same thing. The problem was the boot that is connected to the coil had a cut in it and electricity was escaping. I bought the new wire and the car ran fine.

 

How long has it been since a major tune-up(plugs,wires,dist. cap, rotor button) my car ran kinda like that when i got it and i did a tune up and now it runs good...not great..but good (dosnt stall)

 

Hey Beittel, which dealer did you go to? I always go to VOB and they always fix it right the first time.

 

.. fortunately mine's never died, but I have had to limp into a parking lot and reconnect the MAF.

good luck! [/I][/QUOTE]


Hey Matt,

I believe the coil or the wire that is connected to the coil might be the problem. I had that type of problem on another type of car. The car would do the same thing. The problem was the boot that is connected to the coil had a cut in it and electricity was escaping. I bought the new wire and the car ran fine. [/I][/QUOTE]

When you say "coil", what is that, and where do I find it? Are you referring to the wire to the air flow sensor itself? They already replaced the lead that attaches onto the air flow sensor. That's what they were thinking too- that the connection may have been faulty. But it's still having problems. Still, strange thing is that the car runs alright once I gtet it up and running. I just got back today, for example, from a forty minute trip. Seems to do ok. Just still very strnge that it has this problem, especially in the mornings when I'm first starting out, or whenever the car has been sitting unused for any more than a couple hours.

 

The ignition coil is what he's reffering to...its on the left side of the engine, toward the front of it, right by the belt for the A/C compressor. It supplies the 'spark' for the distributor cap to distribute to each individual spark plug wire. If its bad, none of the plugs fire right. If someone did a major tune-up and replaced the wires(including the coil wire normally) then that shouldnt be a prob.

 

I agree with checking everything but the plug wires, it's something more than that. And too, what about the throttle position sensor?

 

And where would I find that? What does that do?

 

The throttle position sensor may not be it. But, it's worth checking everything! It's found on the right side of the throttle body. There is a lower and upper screw to it that can be loosened to adjust it or take it off. You can play with it, it will idle your car up. The role it plays as far as air/ fuel mixture..... I don't know. Sorry.

 

Sorry again for all the exact questions, but I have no clue what these terms mean. Where is the throttle body? What does it look like? By the way, I did find the ignition coil just moments go, I took the black plastic cap off of it and inspected it. I also disconnected the leads and then reconnected them again. I don't know whether I'd be jumping to any firm conclusions yet, but right after I did that, I started the engine gain, it started without any hesitancy and the RPM meter gave me a little less than 1000, rather than the 1500 that's it's been resting at..... Hmmmmm

 

Maybe yer coil is breaking down inside Iv had cars run like crap cuz of bad coils..but they were like 70's and 60's era..guess same old stuff would apply to a max tho
But since disconnecting it/reconnecting it possibly made a change, id make sure the connections are clean and not frayed or anything. And if it does make it not-stall, then maybe u found your problem