TN-Max

This afternoon I decided to perform the self-diagnostic test on the Maxima because it just seems like I'm losing to cars I shouldn't or I'm not winning by enough, and of course just an overall sluggish feeling to the car (probably because of autotragic tranny too). Well, sure enough I did find something, the knock sensor code came up. I've been searching and found people posting about the KS code only being a ghost code and some other stuff relating to it not needing to be replaced, however I don't have any other codes coming up other than the knock sensor code. Which leads me to assume that, the knock sensor is the problem. I plan on purchasing a new knock sensor some time this week and will most likely do the install myself this weekend. I will post my results as soon as I get this done. My main question is, has anyone that has only gotten the knock sensor code replaced the knock sensor and gotten their performance back? I want to make sure that this is my problem and that I'm not just wasting $130 by doing this.

Thanks,
Tom

Jamsan

iTrader: (2)

i can vouch for that....replaced it, and i dunno if it was right away, but few days later, i definately noticed it was there....nissan tech told me not to replace it, because lots of other things can trigger it off, but i didnt listen to em, replaced it, got the pep back, got the gas mileage back, got the error code gone....yay

JustTry

The best way to know, is you bust out with your Haynes or Chiltons manual, adn see what to do.

Or, you can listen to me, and bust out with the Ohmmeter, and see if there is Continuity. If an open circuit is indicated, replace the knock sensor.

Note: The knock sensor resistanse is very high, use an ohmmeter cable to measure at least 10 M-ohms.

hlh0501

iTrader: (1)

I have been getting only the KS code... I finally bought the stupid ks this past week and it should be here tuesday ish.. I was at the track last week , and I am running this coming saturday so i can tell you for sure exactly what difference it makes for me, and also the good ol butt dyno.

Lime

http://www.skippynet.com/maxima/knocksensor.htm

skeelo34

iTrader: (4)

WTF is with this supid knock sensor. I dont think mine is bad, and my car feels fast, but So far i have 130 miles on my tank and I have a 1/4 tank left. Could this be it? I mean 130???, about 30 of it was highway. Should I just replace the damn thing on my 96? Also, what is that tool that you can test it with, and how?

orgasmicNYC

I replaced my KS a few weeks ago. I can't tell you if that increased my performance alone because I had problems with coils etc... But the car has much better fuel mileage and runs faster (I think).

JustTry

The knock sensor detects abnormal vibration (knock or pinging) in the engine. The knock control system is designed to reduce spark knock during periods of heady detonation. This allows the engine to use maximum spark advance to inprove driveability. Knock sensors produce AC output voltage which increases with the severity of the knock. The signal is fed into the PCM and the timing is retarded to compensate for the severe detonation.

To check disconnect the knock sensor harness connector. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between the two terminals of the knock sensor connector. Continuity should be indicated. If an open circuitis indicated, replace the knock sensor.

Also i think you shouldnt replace something that isnt broken......

TN-Max

ok, if i do this test ur talking about and if it isn't broken, y am i and a lot of other people getting the code thrown back at us and most seeing drastic improvement when they replace it?
not trying to be/sound rude, but that doesnt make much sense to me

Thanks,
Tom

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

I myself question this. Sometimes the KS codes don't make sense. Even the dealers tell us unless it's actually broken, something else is causing the KS code.

Some guys have been lucky and the KS was actually at fault. Some guys have replaced it, the CEL went away, but performance stays the same.

So 'splain that Lucy!

I guess it's just pot luck with the KS. But do check all other areas of your car for a possible fault before you replace the KS. And by all means, measure the KS first to see if it's actually busted.

From the Haynes Manual:
Using an OHM METER measure the KS. Resistance values should be very high, close to 10 MegOhms. If that reading is correct, don't replace the KS, look elsewhere.

OK so I added the last line.....

korupter

Sorry to bring an old topic back... but i need more enlightenment on how to check the KS with an ohm meter. My friend has one, and I'm getting that code. I also tried searching. so yea.

volkl77

I'm in the same boat as we speak... car is apart right now. I have a new KS and my old one out of the engine. The test values are nearly identical.

Neither have continuity between the pins and resistance values are about 550 M ohms. AC voltage readings are also similar when the units are tapped to simulate engine knock. Around 3-4 millivolts idle and 16-25 millivolts when tapped.
The only variation I can find is the old sensor which appears to be fine, produces the increased voltage with less tap imput.
O2 sensors all check out at 4.5 to 4.7 Ohms at 95deg F. Spec is 2.3-4.3 Ohms at 77 deg F, so they may be showing their age at 97k miles or the ambient temp. is causing the slightly high reading.

Any Thoughts Folks?????