I finally replaced the Knock Sensor. With tons of cuts on my hand. There is no more error code, but my car still stalling on me(its an automatic). I would drive for maybe 4miles at 40-45mph. the car feel like its running out of gas huf and buff alittle then all the light on dash would come on and just die. then i won't able to start it for the 3 or 4 times, then it would run again.

Any ideas or any suggestion where i should trouble shoot???

 

I've had this happen a couple of times in the last few months. I say you do the trouble shooting and let me know what you come up with.

 

I'm pretty much 1000000% positive your Knock Sensor had nothing to do with your cars stalling problem. As a matter of fact, I bet ya the KS code came up because of your cars stalling, the sensor itself was probably just fine.

Things to check:

Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Fule pressure regulator
MAF sensor
TPS

 

How do I check each of those fuel filer, pump, pressure regulator, or maf sensor? If I bring it into Auto Zone and have them hookup to the computer will they able to tell??

I just spent $130 on the KS and its nothing wrong with the old one what a waste of money. and not to mention get bunch of cuts on my hand.

 

When I had the same problem with my car stalling it was my maf sensor. That's the first thing I'd check. Good luck.

 

I recommend investing in a repair manual.

 

What is the MAF sensor and how much is a new one? Where is it located?

 

idle air control valve

 

My manual was stalling then I opened my hood and one of those hoses from the resonator had fallen off(because I didnt put it on tight enough)AHHH whoops

 

The maf sensor is also called an air flow meter. It is the part that connects to the air filter. You should look into buying a haynes manual if you dont already have one. It's very helpful. Use search and you can find alot of info on maf sensors. The dealer wants about $500 for a new maf sensor. www.thepartsbin.com has it for $250 and www.car-part.com has them for as little as $25 used. Good luck.

 

Hey man I need to replace my Knock sensor. To replace it do we have to turn the bolt left to take the sensor off. Cause I tried to do it today but it was in there mad tight and I was afraid to give it more force. Or should I give it all I got? Also did you tighten it with a wrench or a torque wrench>

 

idle air control valve is right. That just happened to me and i got it replaced and now im fine. Its cheap to fix also.

 

Any ideas or any suggestion where i should trouble shoot??? [/B][/QUOTE]

Was the car stalling before you replaced the KS?
Did you reset the ecu?? If you did: I had this happen to me one time...I had just put on my JWT Pop charger and reset the ecu....except when I reset the ecu I didn't turn the ecu selector screw clockwise until it stopped. By not doing this the next time I turned the car on I was idling below 500rpm...the car sounded like it was going to stall every time I let off the gas. I reset the ecu properly afterwards and have not had a problem since. Don't ask me why??? Hope this helps a little with your troubleshooting....let us know what happens when you find out.

 

the service advisor called me back today told me the stalling problem is the air temp sensor. I think he's talking about the one in the air filter. he said labor and parts will cost $225. i'm gonna take the car back and buy the part myself for $70. Hope that will solve the stalling problem

 

I just replaced my Knock sensor. Took me 10 minutes. I didn't cut my self that bad. No the problem is I can't seem to reset my ECU. How do you do it and how do you know if it is reset?

 

I brought this up in a past post:

I have been having engine troubles lately, and I can not seem to locate a problem.

1. My car will stall, Even when I am justletting it warm up, it will just shut off and then have trouble re starting, I have to give it gas and try to start it and some times it takes numerous atempts. It also tends to stall while I am driving around town.

2. Idle seems to jump around from 1-3000rpms it almost feels as if the engine is about to dye, I have to floor it for it to go and even then it still does not feel right, and is some what violent.

3. Gas mileage seems to be some what low.

I have a 95' Auto SE, 150,000mi with a intake.
I change oil/filter every 3,000 miles,
Recently changed spark plugs, and fuel filter.
I also only use chevron gas.

It continues to do this, and it seems but is not limited to only do this when my car has been parked in colder temperatures for a while sometimes in the morning but it has happened during other occasions.

PLEASE HELP....

Thanks.

 

The intake air temp sensor should have a code 0401 when checking diagnostic trouble codes. It's not used to control the engine. It's only used for onboard diagnostics. I seriously doubt it would be causing your car to stall or run bad. I have to agree with njmaxseltd on what to check. Good luck.

Dave

 

I had the same problem you had about 4 months ago, the car would stall when the engine was cold. Replace Engine coolent temp. sensor to fix problem.

Check out this thread

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....nt+temp+sensor

 

SonicDust187
How to get the code:
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html

What the code means:
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecudecoder.html

SPAM7788
The air temp sensor will not cause your car to stall. When I first changed my intake I didn't even put the temp sensor back on...until the cel came on.The car was still running without a problem. Reconnected it and reset the ecu...no problems. I would check the idle air control valve and your MAF sensor(as pointed out already)

 

I did follow those instructions. I think I figured out what I was doing wrong. Thanks.

 

i think i said it before but IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE