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SE Gauge installation trouble

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Old 09-16-2002, 04:58 PM
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SE Gauge installation trouble

Hey guys. I got my new SE gauge cluster today =D and I was working on the install. Came across some problems. First I was trying to get the plastic cover of the new gauges off and it cracked Oh well, I have another one I can use. So I go at it. I remove the plastic piece under the wheel, the metal piece of junk that does nothing and started working on dropping the steering column. I got the first bolt off but COULD NOT get the second one to start. Does anyone have any suggestions on this? Also, I've heard it can be tough to get that plastic piece off without cracking. Anyone have any suggestions on this? Thanks.
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Old 09-16-2002, 05:23 PM
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Re: SE Gauge installation trouble

Originally posted by gepetto
Hey guys. I got my new SE gauge cluster today =D and I was working on the install. Came across some problems. First I was trying to get the plastic cover of the new gauges off and it cracked Oh well, I have another one I can use. So I go at it. I remove the plastic piece under the wheel, the metal piece of junk that does nothing and started working on dropping the steering column. I got the first bolt off but COULD NOT get the second one to start. Does anyone have any suggestions on this? Also, I've heard it can be tough to get that plastic piece off without cracking. Anyone have any suggestions on this? Thanks.
Are ypu talking about the curved metal piece directly under the steering wheel? If so, why not just use a socket wrench with a 10mm socket to loosen it up? Don't use a regular phillips screwdriver because that will only strip the head of the bolt.
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Old 09-16-2002, 05:30 PM
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I just did this 2 days ago to fix my gauges. You are talking about the nut that holds your steering wheel up right? 12mm socket fits it. Try pushing up on the steering wheel to lesson pressure on the nut and try to loosen it that way. Hope that helped.
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Old 09-16-2002, 06:14 PM
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If u cant get it I can help u sometime, it would have to be in the first weekend of oct. We could do it that sat, start at like 10 am do ur cluster, install my SS brake lines, etc.....
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Old 09-16-2002, 06:46 PM
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yeah brian that sounds good. i worked on it some more tonite. the problem is the socket keeps slipping! i think my plier attempts have stripped the nut some. so that leaves me kind of bewildered as to how im going to do this. if the socket wont fit and pliars keep slipping (like visegrips) im totally confused. i'm sure i'll figure SOME way to get it off LOL.

anyone got suggestions as to how to get a stripped nut off a bolt?
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Old 09-16-2002, 07:07 PM
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Try using a deep, 6-point socket. If that doesn't work, try hammering on a one size smaller 12-point socket. You should probably put the other side nut back on most of the way to carry the weight of the steering column.

You should have started the job with deep 6-point sockets to begin with; never use vice grips on a nut or bolt. If you invest in the right tools when you begin a job, you will soon have a very versatile tool box.

To keep from breaking the plastic bezel, you need to hold as closely as you can to each of the tabs when you pull them out one at a time.
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Old 09-16-2002, 07:11 PM
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Originally posted by sinewave
You should have started the job with deep 6-point sockets to begin with; never use vice grips on a nut or bolt. If you invest in the right tools when you begin a job, you will soon have a very versatile tool box.
I tried the socket on there, but it never came. I dunno.

By the way: I know this a newbie question, but wahts the difference between a 6 point and a 12 point socket?
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Old 09-16-2002, 07:42 PM
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The 6-point deep socket is on the left, the 12-point socket is on the right. Note that they are not to scale.

The 6-point contacts the nut or bolt with a lot more surface area, the 12-point only contacts the corners of the bolt. The only (slight) diadvantage is that you have a bit more trouble postioning it on the bolt in tight areas. IMHO, you sould always buy 6-point.
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