***IMPORTANT: Everyone with Installed MEVI's***
10-04-2002, 10:30 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Williamstown, NJ
Posts: 602
***IMPORTANT: Everyone with Installed MEVI's***
This post is in reference to they way everyone wired up their MEVI's. Mr Cranman and myself have been debating this and the problems associated with various components. We are now on a mission to figure out the best possible way to wire everything. As for everyone, please post your wiring schematics and how you connected everything (i.e. used a wire tap, spliced the wire, etc.). Also, include whether you had a bad component (i.e. Harlan switch, Dawes switch, etc.). Thank you for your input.
10-04-2002, 10:54 AM
#2
Re: ***IMPORTANT: Everyone with Installed MEVI's***
Originally posted by KMax2988
This post is in reference to they way everyone wired up their MEVI's. Mr Cranman and myself have been debating this and the problems associated with various components. We are now on a mission to figure out the best possible way to wire everything. As for everyone, please post your wiring schematics and how you connected everything (i.e. used a wire tap, spliced the wire, etc.). Also, include whether you had a bad component (i.e. Harlan switch, Dawes switch, etc.). Thank you for your input.
This post is in reference to they way everyone wired up their MEVI's. Mr Cranman and myself have been debating this and the problems associated with various components. We are now on a mission to figure out the best possible way to wire everything. As for everyone, please post your wiring schematics and how you connected everything (i.e. used a wire tap, spliced the wire, etc.). Also, include whether you had a bad component (i.e. Harlan switch, Dawes switch, etc.). Thank you for your input.
2.For the Ground of the RPM switch I ground it to a grounding point...used right by the headlight.
3. I pulled the RPM signal from the coil by stripping the wire and wrapping the RPM wire from the Harlan switch around it then putting electrical tape on it.
4.Then sent the signal to open up the Dawes device to the ground on the dawes device (used a Nissan vacuum seloniod though)
Another question I have is why exactly is the relay needed. I understand the relay is used to boost the power out put of a small amp out put. But, all the RPM switch is completing the circuit by grounding out the 12V signal you are getting from the dawes device. So there really isn't any need to boost the ground wire unless it isn't letting enough current through (which I haven't measured, but it works for me so must be letting enough current through to ground it)
We are also just wondering where you guys are pulling the RPM signal from if it is from:
1. The Coil
2. Back of the Gauge cluster
3. Straight from the ECU
We know that there have been some faulty RPM switches but we want to see if there might have been some bad wiring that caused the problem also...not saying that people don't know how to wire just to see if there were any flaws...because...I know if you are doing a wire tap that possibly because of the low current of the rpm signal it might not be sending a strong signal to the RPM switch therefore there is a shoot or miss...or you might have not gotten a good tap. Just some of my thoughts.
Thanks for the input
-John
10-04-2002, 11:07 AM
#3
1. For the RPM switch and the MAP Switch I pulled power from the postitive of the 12V battery.
2. For the Ground of the Harlans I grounded to the car body.
3. I pulled the RPM signal from the coil by using a wire tap and splicing/soldering the wire to my Harlans inside the car(2)
I originally tried going from the cluster/ECU, but my tach died even though the Harlan worked (seems to only be a 99 problem). If you wire up 2 Harlans to the cluster on 95-98 you'll get the same problem (Mishmosh did). Aparrently the Harlans pull the entire current and nothing gets to the gauge cluster in this situation.
4. I then sent the signal to activate the MAP switch via the switched ground on the Harlan to my relay.
Technically you should always use a relay so you don't burn your electronics, but it isn't always necessary. I went ahead and used one because I know the Harlan's output capacity is very limited (I don't have an exact number).
-hype
2. For the Ground of the Harlans I grounded to the car body.
3. I pulled the RPM signal from the coil by using a wire tap and splicing/soldering the wire to my Harlans inside the car(2)
I originally tried going from the cluster/ECU, but my tach died even though the Harlan worked (seems to only be a 99 problem). If you wire up 2 Harlans to the cluster on 95-98 you'll get the same problem (Mishmosh did). Aparrently the Harlans pull the entire current and nothing gets to the gauge cluster in this situation.
4. I then sent the signal to activate the MAP switch via the switched ground on the Harlan to my relay.
Technically you should always use a relay so you don't burn your electronics, but it isn't always necessary. I went ahead and used one because I know the Harlan's output capacity is very limited (I don't have an exact number).
-hype
10-04-2002, 11:35 AM
#4
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Maybe we're on to something. Here's a message Harlan sent me yesterday:
"That's the part that gets me
It will only retrieve the memory on powerup or CPU
reset. Seems like possibly the relay you guys are
using is tripping the switches power supply.
are you hooking them (switch and relay/solenoid) to
the same 12V source?
it still has me stumped
harlan"
As most of you know, I'm using a toggle switch to activate my VI right now. The MAP switch is wired directly to the battery via a fused link and the ground of the MAP switch is completed via the toggle switch. When the toggle is off, the ground isn't complete and when the switch is on, the ground is complete. It works flawlessly.
I've had a Harlan shiftlight for two years and never had any trouble. Power is wired into the fuse box, ground to the chassis, and tach wire to the ECU.
With my Harlan RPM switch, I was wired into the fuse box, ground to the chassis, tach signal from ECU. The "switched" white wire went to the relay. The relay was wired directly to the battery (2 wires). The 12V of the MAP switch was wired to relay and the ground of the MAP switch was to the engine block.
Here's my $50 question
Is it possible that wiring the 12V power of the MAP switch to the relay is causing the problems? Harlan seems to allude to this. I sent an e-mail back to him asking how he thought we should wire the system. Seeing that Mr Cranman is using the RPM switch signal to complete the GROUND of the MAP switch and not the 12V power along with using no relay and he's had no problems, is it possible that relay is indeed causing the problems?
I'm beginning to think we need to be completing the ground of the MAP switch to activate the system and not the 12V of the MAP switch. My toggle switch is wired this way and it's perfect.
Dave
"That's the part that gets me
It will only retrieve the memory on powerup or CPU
reset. Seems like possibly the relay you guys are
using is tripping the switches power supply.
are you hooking them (switch and relay/solenoid) to
the same 12V source?
it still has me stumped
harlan"
As most of you know, I'm using a toggle switch to activate my VI right now. The MAP switch is wired directly to the battery via a fused link and the ground of the MAP switch is completed via the toggle switch. When the toggle is off, the ground isn't complete and when the switch is on, the ground is complete. It works flawlessly.
I've had a Harlan shiftlight for two years and never had any trouble. Power is wired into the fuse box, ground to the chassis, and tach wire to the ECU.
With my Harlan RPM switch, I was wired into the fuse box, ground to the chassis, tach signal from ECU. The "switched" white wire went to the relay. The relay was wired directly to the battery (2 wires). The 12V of the MAP switch was wired to relay and the ground of the MAP switch was to the engine block.
Here's my $50 question
Is it possible that wiring the 12V power of the MAP switch to the relay is causing the problems? Harlan seems to allude to this. I sent an e-mail back to him asking how he thought we should wire the system. Seeing that Mr Cranman is using the RPM switch signal to complete the GROUND of the MAP switch and not the 12V power along with using no relay and he's had no problems, is it possible that relay is indeed causing the problems?
I'm beginning to think we need to be completing the ground of the MAP switch to activate the system and not the 12V of the MAP switch. My toggle switch is wired this way and it's perfect.
Dave
10-04-2002, 11:42 AM
#5
Dave now that you mention it my Map switch is wired to the 12v of the battery. It gets its ground after the relay is switched on from the Harlan.
So maybe you're right that the people having problems are using the Harlan to switch 12v rather than a ground.
-hype
So maybe you're right that the people having problems are using the Harlan to switch 12v rather than a ground.
-hype
10-04-2002, 03:05 PM
#7
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally posted by Sin
If that is the case, then why would the VI work sometimes, and sometimes not? It would either work or not work right?
If that is the case, then why would the VI work sometimes, and sometimes not? It would either work or not work right?
Dave
10-04-2002, 04:34 PM
#8
Dyno plot says I have the most area under the Administrator curve
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,060
I'm not sure if this is relevant or not, or if you guys are already doing this or not, so take it for what it's worth.
If you're tapping a signal from a coil pack and sending it back to a switch, definitely use a twisted pair wire and solidly connect the ground wire as close to the coil pack as you can on as good of a ground you can find. This will prevent the signal from the coil pack from radiating away as it would on a single unshielded wire. It'll also help reduce noise pickup on the line.
I've read of several of you guys having "flake out's", so just be sure you're keeping your signal as intact and shielded as possible. Good grounding is a must.
Hope this is of some use to you guys...
If you're tapping a signal from a coil pack and sending it back to a switch, definitely use a twisted pair wire and solidly connect the ground wire as close to the coil pack as you can on as good of a ground you can find. This will prevent the signal from the coil pack from radiating away as it would on a single unshielded wire. It'll also help reduce noise pickup on the line.
I've read of several of you guys having "flake out's", so just be sure you're keeping your signal as intact and shielded as possible. Good grounding is a must.
Hope this is of some use to you guys...
10-04-2002, 06:20 PM
#9
No relay?
So no relay John? I thought it was determined that the Dawes solenoid pulls more current than the Harlan is rated to handle. Doesn't mean it can't be done I guess...
Anyways for me:
1. RPM switch and Dawes power from lighter 12V line.
2. RPM switch ground from cockpit body.
3. Dawes ground from lower intake manifold grounding screw.
No apparent problems with the Harlan at all. Rpm Switch taken from the coil although my shiftlight harlan off the TAM screw has also been flawless.
Dave B, if memory serves me, I believe from your previous post many weeks ago, that you are hooking up your relay differently--specifically, the 12Vout to your solenoid. It may make a difference, it may not.
Anyways for me:
1. RPM switch and Dawes power from lighter 12V line.
2. RPM switch ground from cockpit body.
3. Dawes ground from lower intake manifold grounding screw.
No apparent problems with the Harlan at all. Rpm Switch taken from the coil although my shiftlight harlan off the TAM screw has also been flawless.
Dave B, if memory serves me, I believe from your previous post many weeks ago, that you are hooking up your relay differently--specifically, the 12Vout to your solenoid. It may make a difference, it may not.
10-04-2002, 06:43 PM
#10
Relay connections
Originally posted by Mishmosh
Dave B, if memory serves me, I believe from your previous post many weeks ago, that you are hooking up your relay differently--specifically, the 12Vout to your solenoid. It may make a difference, it may not.
Dave B, if memory serves me, I believe from your previous post many weeks ago, that you are hooking up your relay differently--specifically, the 12Vout to your solenoid. It may make a difference, it may not.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....switch+problem
Specifically where you and I both list where we connect the relay terminals (4) to. You and I have the 12V in/out reversed. Maybe try reversing those to see if that works.
10-07-2002, 11:18 AM
#12
Re: ***IMPORTANT: Everyone with Installed MEVI's***
Originally posted by KMax2988
This post is in reference to they way everyone wired up their MEVI's. Mr Cranman and myself have been debating this and the problems associated with various components. We are now on a mission to figure out the best possible way to wire everything. As for everyone, please post your wiring schematics and how you connected everything (i.e. used a wire tap, spliced the wire, etc.). Also, include whether you had a bad component (i.e. Harlan switch, Dawes switch, etc.). Thank you for your input.
This post is in reference to they way everyone wired up their MEVI's. Mr Cranman and myself have been debating this and the problems associated with various components. We are now on a mission to figure out the best possible way to wire everything. As for everyone, please post your wiring schematics and how you connected everything (i.e. used a wire tap, spliced the wire, etc.). Also, include whether you had a bad component (i.e. Harlan switch, Dawes switch, etc.). Thank you for your input.
RADIO SHACK RELAY
12v siganl for radio shack relay, used a wire tap to get 12vdc from the A/C relay under the hood and connected it to 2 sides of the relay
GND for the relay comes from the Harlan rpm switch
12V out goes to the map/baro switch off of a pulsar
HARLAN RPM SWITCH...located inside of engine compartment behind passenger side headlight
12v signal comes from the same A/C relay used for the radio shack relay put the 2 wires into the same side of the wire tap
RPM signal comes from the #1 coil , using a wire tap
GND comes from a grounding point right behind the passenger side head light
GND OUTPUT goes into radioshack relay
MAP/BARO SWITCH FROM A PULSAR
12v in comes from the radio shack relay
GND is used on the engine, there are 2 grounding points near the front of the manifold
10-07-2002, 12:15 PM
#13
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Bags-
Have you EVER had any problems with the switch? Are you hearing the VI in every gear? You should hear it kick on everytime regardless of gear. I use to think 1st and 2nd gears were the only gears I could hear it in. I was wrong. My VI wasn't working in 3rd and sometimes in 2nd. Other times it never worked. On the dyno and in 4th gear, everyone's eyes bugged out of their heads when I flipped the switch to engage the VI because the change in intake noise was so noticeable.
Dave
Have you EVER had any problems with the switch? Are you hearing the VI in every gear? You should hear it kick on everytime regardless of gear. I use to think 1st and 2nd gears were the only gears I could hear it in. I was wrong. My VI wasn't working in 3rd and sometimes in 2nd. Other times it never worked. On the dyno and in 4th gear, everyone's eyes bugged out of their heads when I flipped the switch to engage the VI because the change in intake noise was so noticeable.
Dave
10-07-2002, 12:17 PM
#14
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally posted by xHypex
Dave now that you mention it my Map switch is wired to the 12v of the battery. It gets its ground after the relay is switched on from the Harlan.
So maybe you're right that the people having problems are using the Harlan to switch 12v rather than a ground.
-hype
Dave now that you mention it my Map switch is wired to the 12v of the battery. It gets its ground after the relay is switched on from the Harlan.
So maybe you're right that the people having problems are using the Harlan to switch 12v rather than a ground.
-hype
Dave
10-12-2002, 08:33 PM
#15
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 1,756
Originally posted by Dave B
Seems like possibly the relay you guys are
using is tripping the switches power supply.
Seems like possibly the relay you guys are
using is tripping the switches power supply.
10-13-2002, 07:07 AM
#16
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 1,035
The way I would do it is this:
1. Pull the tach signal from the coil pack. No real reason to pull it from any where else unless you are worried about engine temperature affecting the life of the rpm switch electronics.
2. Put a fuse on everything you pull from 12V. There is a reason that your car has so many fuses - to protect your electronics and isolate problems.
3. Use a relay for the map/baro or whatever you decide to use. I don't like to overstress components especially if your component costs $50. Why cheap out on a $5 part? It can also cause your VI to run intermittently if the drive current is marginal.
As far as grounding goes, just make sure you have a reasonably clean one. Doesn't have to be at the battery, we are not talking about A/D converters here where clean grounds are paramount, we're talking on and off.
1. Pull the tach signal from the coil pack. No real reason to pull it from any where else unless you are worried about engine temperature affecting the life of the rpm switch electronics.
2. Put a fuse on everything you pull from 12V. There is a reason that your car has so many fuses - to protect your electronics and isolate problems.
3. Use a relay for the map/baro or whatever you decide to use. I don't like to overstress components especially if your component costs $50. Why cheap out on a $5 part? It can also cause your VI to run intermittently if the drive current is marginal.
As far as grounding goes, just make sure you have a reasonably clean one. Doesn't have to be at the battery, we are not talking about A/D converters here where clean grounds are paramount, we're talking on and off.
10-14-2002, 12:04 PM
#17
Originally posted by Dave B
Bags-
Have you EVER had any problems with the switch? Are you hearing the VI in every gear? You should hear it kick on everytime regardless of gear. I use to think 1st and 2nd gears were the only gears I could hear it in. I was wrong. My VI wasn't working in 3rd and sometimes in 2nd. Other times it never worked. On the dyno and in 4th gear, everyone's eyes bugged out of their heads when I flipped the switch to engage the VI because the change in intake noise was so noticeable.
Dave
Bags-
Have you EVER had any problems with the switch? Are you hearing the VI in every gear? You should hear it kick on everytime regardless of gear. I use to think 1st and 2nd gears were the only gears I could hear it in. I was wrong. My VI wasn't working in 3rd and sometimes in 2nd. Other times it never worked. On the dyno and in 4th gear, everyone's eyes bugged out of their heads when I flipped the switch to engage the VI because the change in intake noise was so noticeable.
Dave
sorry to so long to respond
10-14-2002, 12:04 PM
#18
Originally posted by Dave B
Bags-
Have you EVER had any problems with the switch? Are you hearing the VI in every gear? You should hear it kick on everytime regardless of gear. I use to think 1st and 2nd gears were the only gears I could hear it in. I was wrong. My VI wasn't working in 3rd and sometimes in 2nd. Other times it never worked. On the dyno and in 4th gear, everyone's eyes bugged out of their heads when I flipped the switch to engage the VI because the change in intake noise was so noticeable.
Dave
Bags-
Have you EVER had any problems with the switch? Are you hearing the VI in every gear? You should hear it kick on everytime regardless of gear. I use to think 1st and 2nd gears were the only gears I could hear it in. I was wrong. My VI wasn't working in 3rd and sometimes in 2nd. Other times it never worked. On the dyno and in 4th gear, everyone's eyes bugged out of their heads when I flipped the switch to engage the VI because the change in intake noise was so noticeable.
Dave
sorry took so long to respond
10-14-2002, 12:52 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Although I don't understand why, I think you guys have all convinced me that the problem with most folks' setup, including mine, was the use of the relay. I'm going to go ahead and hook up the rpm switch directly to the solenoid as you guys are recommending. I might consider hooking up an inline 0.5A fuse to the switched ground to the rpm switch, though...that's the rating for the rpm switch. It sounds like the solenoid doesn't quite draw 0.5A, keeping the rpm switch happy (not bursting into flames and all he he).
Originally posted by bags533
it is hard for me to hear it switchover.. BUT I can feel it no doubt. Hmm.. I will try and drive with out the radio on an listen.. but again on the dyno , after I fixed my few problems it worked in every gear.
sorry took so long to respond
it is hard for me to hear it switchover.. BUT I can feel it no doubt. Hmm.. I will try and drive with out the radio on an listen.. but again on the dyno , after I fixed my few problems it worked in every gear.
sorry took so long to respond
10-14-2002, 01:11 PM
#20
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally posted by Keven97SE
Although I don't understand why, I think you guys have all convinced me that the problem with most folks' setup, including mine, was the use of the relay. I'm going to go ahead and hook up the rpm switch directly to the solenoid as you guys are recommending. I might consider hooking up an inline 0.5A fuse to the switched ground to the rpm switch, though...that's the rating for the rpm switch. It sounds like the solenoid doesn't quite draw 0.5A, keeping the rpm switch happy (not bursting into flames and all he he).
Although I don't understand why, I think you guys have all convinced me that the problem with most folks' setup, including mine, was the use of the relay. I'm going to go ahead and hook up the rpm switch directly to the solenoid as you guys are recommending. I might consider hooking up an inline 0.5A fuse to the switched ground to the rpm switch, though...that's the rating for the rpm switch. It sounds like the solenoid doesn't quite draw 0.5A, keeping the rpm switch happy (not bursting into flames and all he he).
I wish there was a way to wire my Harlan shift light into a RPM switch. The internals are the same.
Dave
10-14-2002, 01:12 PM
#21
Originally posted by Dave B
I'm beginning to think we need to be completing the ground of the MAP switch to activate the system and not the 12V of the MAP switch. My toggle switch is wired this way and it's perfect.
Dave
I'm beginning to think we need to be completing the ground of the MAP switch to activate the system and not the 12V of the MAP switch. My toggle switch is wired this way and it's perfect.
Dave
It works flawlessly for me.
10-15-2002, 08:40 AM
#22
Originally posted by Keven97SE
Although I don't understand why, I think you guys have all convinced me that the problem with most folks' setup, including mine, was the use of the relay. I'm going to go ahead and hook up the rpm switch directly to the solenoid as you guys are recommending. I might consider hooking up an inline 0.5A fuse to the switched ground to the rpm switch, though...that's the rating for the rpm switch. It sounds like the solenoid doesn't quite draw 0.5A, keeping the rpm switch happy (not bursting into flames and all he he).
Although I don't understand why, I think you guys have all convinced me that the problem with most folks' setup, including mine, was the use of the relay. I'm going to go ahead and hook up the rpm switch directly to the solenoid as you guys are recommending. I might consider hooking up an inline 0.5A fuse to the switched ground to the rpm switch, though...that's the rating for the rpm switch. It sounds like the solenoid doesn't quite draw 0.5A, keeping the rpm switch happy (not bursting into flames and all he he).
I first thought and still think it is some sort of wiring/connection/gnd problem.
I might be going to the dyno thursday... if I do I will do a run with normal driving like I would on the street and try and make it not work.
That way I will be able to see if it does not work and under which conditions it did not work.
10-15-2002, 09:22 AM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Yep, I feel ya. I wish I would have never sent Harlan my switch. No, he still hasn't sent me back a/my switch, and has not responded to any of my emails over the past 6 weeks. I am fuming. I can almost guarantee I still won't hear from him after he comes back on the 18th. Pretty sure I'm going to have to shell out (more) money for a MSD switch at this point. Going to wait 2 weeks though to give Harlan a chance to redeem himself.
Originally posted by Dave B
I'm starting to feel the same way about my switch. I'm so ticked that we figured out the problem the DAY AFTER I sent the switch back. Did you ever recieve your switch from Harlan? Apparently he's on business right now and won't be back until the 18th. I doubt I'll get an RPM switch before my track closes for the season on the 30th
I wish there was a way to wire my Harlan shift light into a RPM switch. The internals are the same.
Dave
I'm starting to feel the same way about my switch. I'm so ticked that we figured out the problem the DAY AFTER I sent the switch back. Did you ever recieve your switch from Harlan? Apparently he's on business right now and won't be back until the 18th. I doubt I'll get an RPM switch before my track closes for the season on the 30th
I wish there was a way to wire my Harlan shift light into a RPM switch. The internals are the same.
Dave
10-15-2002, 09:25 AM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Do you have a schematic drawn up on your setup that you could email me? If not, would you mind looking over the schem I have (I'd email it to you)? My setup sounds exactly like yours but mine does not work (well, after 1 or 2 successful switches).
Thanks.
Thanks.
Originally posted by iansw
I have a relay activating the Solenoid after the RPM switch closes the ground on the relay. Thereby giving power to the solenoid directly from the battery, through the relay, and not from the RPM switch.
It works flawlessly for me.
I have a relay activating the Solenoid after the RPM switch closes the ground on the relay. Thereby giving power to the solenoid directly from the battery, through the relay, and not from the RPM switch.
It works flawlessly for me.
10-15-2002, 09:31 AM
#25
Originally posted by Keven97SE
Do you have a schematic drawn up on your setup that you could email me? If not, would you mind looking over the schem I have (I'd email it to you)? My setup sounds exactly like yours but mine does not work (well, after 1 or 2 successful switches).
Thanks.
Do you have a schematic drawn up on your setup that you could email me? If not, would you mind looking over the schem I have (I'd email it to you)? My setup sounds exactly like yours but mine does not work (well, after 1 or 2 successful switches).
Thanks.
I'm ready to dyno, but I'd like to get a group deal together.
-hype
10-15-2002, 10:46 AM
#26
I have an odd problem. Mine will work for a couple activations while driving...and then crap out. For the last two days, everytime I go anywhere I make sure I go over 5000rpms at least 3 times on the way. When I get to where I'm going, I check the RPM switch to see if it has thrown an error code. Last night on my way to work I activated it three times, and I worked every time. When I got to work the RPM switch was fine.
Today, on my way to school, I got into it with a modded DSM on the highway a couple times...and I didn't seem like my manifold was opening.(I'd gone WOT a few times before I ran the DSM) so whenI got to school I checked it..and sure enough...the RPM switch was blinking, indicating an error.
I'm pretty sure my solenoid is activated by the switched ground on the rpm switch through the relay, but I really have no clue as wiring and electronics are like another language to me. When Nealoc187 and I installed my VI, we just kept wiring it different ways until it worked.
Today, on my way to school, I got into it with a modded DSM on the highway a couple times...and I didn't seem like my manifold was opening.(I'd gone WOT a few times before I ran the DSM) so whenI got to school I checked it..and sure enough...the RPM switch was blinking, indicating an error.
I'm pretty sure my solenoid is activated by the switched ground on the rpm switch through the relay, but I really have no clue as wiring and electronics are like another language to me. When Nealoc187 and I installed my VI, we just kept wiring it different ways until it worked.
10-15-2002, 11:24 AM
#27
Originally posted by BriGuyMax
I have an odd problem. Mine will work for a couple activations while driving...and then crap out. For the last two days, everytime I go anywhere I make sure I go over 5000rpms at least 3 times on the way. When I get to where I'm going, I check the RPM switch to see if it has thrown an error code. Last night on my way to work I activated it three times, and I worked every time. When I got to work the RPM switch was fine.
Today, on my way to school, I got into it with a modded DSM on the highway a couple times...and I didn't seem like my manifold was opening.(I'd gone WOT a few times before I ran the DSM) so whenI got to school I checked it..and sure enough...the RPM switch was blinking, indicating an error.
I'm pretty sure my solenoid is activated by the switched ground on the rpm switch through the relay, but I really have no clue as wiring and electronics are like another language to me. When Nealoc187 and I installed my VI, we just kept wiring it different ways until it worked.
I have an odd problem. Mine will work for a couple activations while driving...and then crap out. For the last two days, everytime I go anywhere I make sure I go over 5000rpms at least 3 times on the way. When I get to where I'm going, I check the RPM switch to see if it has thrown an error code. Last night on my way to work I activated it three times, and I worked every time. When I got to work the RPM switch was fine.
Today, on my way to school, I got into it with a modded DSM on the highway a couple times...and I didn't seem like my manifold was opening.(I'd gone WOT a few times before I ran the DSM) so whenI got to school I checked it..and sure enough...the RPM switch was blinking, indicating an error.
I'm pretty sure my solenoid is activated by the switched ground on the rpm switch through the relay, but I really have no clue as wiring and electronics are like another language to me. When Nealoc187 and I installed my VI, we just kept wiring it different ways until it worked.
This sounds like a poor connection or broken wire somewhere.. not to say the RPM switch is not defective
But if it works sometimes and then stops working I would blame wiring first then the component
10-15-2002, 12:17 PM
#28
Diagram without the relay
Can someone throw together a diagram without the relay and email or post it here.
I did the rewire but am experiencing some inconsistency. I did order a new EGR gasket and throttle body gasket. I have confirmed that I have an intake manifold leak as I am getting about a 10.5 on the vacuum gauge. I pulled the vacuum reading from the top of the manifold to the left of rear middle ignition coil.
The leak is definitely coming from the EGR area. I did the 1/2 inch rubber hose test and that was the only area I heard any hissing from.
Dave
I did the rewire but am experiencing some inconsistency. I did order a new EGR gasket and throttle body gasket. I have confirmed that I have an intake manifold leak as I am getting about a 10.5 on the vacuum gauge. I pulled the vacuum reading from the top of the manifold to the left of rear middle ignition coil.
The leak is definitely coming from the EGR area. I did the 1/2 inch rubber hose test and that was the only area I heard any hissing from.
Dave
10-15-2002, 02:42 PM
#31
Re: Re: Diagram without the relay
Originally posted by bags533
what a slacker.. here you go
what a slacker.. here you go
IMO this is MUCH easier to understand and wire that the relay system is...plus it leaves less room for error.
10-15-2002, 02:47 PM
#32
Re: Re: Re: Diagram without the relay
Originally posted by BriGuyMax
I added a .5 amp in-line fuse between the ground of the solenoid and the switched ground of the RPM switch to protect the Harlan
IMO this is MUCH easier to understand and wire that the relay system is...plus it leaves less room for error.
I added a .5 amp in-line fuse between the ground of the solenoid and the switched ground of the RPM switch to protect the Harlan
IMO this is MUCH easier to understand and wire that the relay system is...plus it leaves less room for error.
you think a .5 is a good size?
and I might be going to this if I have any problems on the dyno
10-15-2002, 03:28 PM
#34
Originally posted by Dave B
I wish there was a way to wire my Harlan shift light into a RPM switch. The internals are the same.
Dave
I wish there was a way to wire my Harlan shift light into a RPM switch. The internals are the same.
Dave
BTW, the red wire is behind the black wire (out of view), but I'm sure that doesn't change with the shiftlight.
10-15-2002, 03:48 PM
#35
Re: Re: Diagram without the relay
Originally posted by bags533
what a slacker.. here you go
what a slacker.. here you go
-John
10-15-2002, 04:05 PM
#36
Originally posted by Mishmosh
You can. The circuit board is the same. The only difference is the switch ground out (white) and the LED with any step-down resistors there may be. Check out the pic below and carefully solder... Don't know if it's wise to operate a LED AND a solenoid though. I'd rather have a working MEVI than shiftlight though...
BTW, the red wire is behind the black wire (out of view), but I'm sure that doesn't change with the shiftlight.
You can. The circuit board is the same. The only difference is the switch ground out (white) and the LED with any step-down resistors there may be. Check out the pic below and carefully solder... Don't know if it's wise to operate a LED AND a solenoid though. I'd rather have a working MEVI than shiftlight though...
BTW, the red wire is behind the black wire (out of view), but I'm sure that doesn't change with the shiftlight.
10-15-2002, 04:09 PM
#37
Originally posted by Toolrocks
A shift light shuts off immediately after the rpm is passed. How would you "latch" the shift light to operate as a on/off switch versus a momentary? I'm curious - I have both a harlan shift light and rpm switch.
A shift light shuts off immediately after the rpm is passed. How would you "latch" the shift light to operate as a on/off switch versus a momentary? I'm curious - I have both a harlan shift light and rpm switch.
-John
10-15-2002, 04:23 PM
#38
My Harlan shift light (and I think most others) works like this: you set it for the desired rpm and put the light somewhere that it's easily visible. When you drive and reach the set rpm the light will illuminate. You can pass the rpm point and the light will shut off. The shift light only lights when it is time to shift. I must say though, I've never tried to hold my car at the rpm the shift light is set for so I don't know if it would stay illuminated then. I think it probably senses the rpm and then trips a timed circuit that lights it up and times out to shut off. My .02
10-15-2002, 04:40 PM
#39
Toolrocks,
if that is true, then neglect the pic and the conversion--probably not worth it. My understanding was that shiftlights light up and stay lighted until the rpm dropped below the set point. Because the cost and packaging of the shiftlight and rpm switch (Harlan's) is almost identical I just assumed that it was the same circuit with the 12V lead and the switched ground connected to the LED/resistors. In fact, I am using my other Harlan rpm switch as my shiftlight with the addition of an LED.
if that is true, then neglect the pic and the conversion--probably not worth it. My understanding was that shiftlights light up and stay lighted until the rpm dropped below the set point. Because the cost and packaging of the shiftlight and rpm switch (Harlan's) is almost identical I just assumed that it was the same circuit with the 12V lead and the switched ground connected to the LED/resistors. In fact, I am using my other Harlan rpm switch as my shiftlight with the addition of an LED.
