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***IMPORTANT: Everyone with Installed MEVI's***

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Old 10-15-2002, 08:31 PM
  #41  
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Re: Re: Re: Diagram without the relay

Originally posted by Mr Cranman


That's is exactly how I wired it but without an amp...the amp is probably safer. But with or without shouldn't cause any problems.

-John

well I drove home tonight and I hit over 5000 rpms about 15 times.. mostly in 2nd gear but 2 times in third and at least 3 in 1st.. when I got home the rpm switch did NOT have the light on and i reved it in N to make sure it was still working and it was.. and I do UASE the realy

this is most perplexing
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Old 10-15-2002, 08:37 PM
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NOS window switch, radio shack relay. tach wire from ECU goes to window switch, switched ground goes to the relay. 12v from switch to battery. 2 wires(12v source and switched 12v) from the relay go to battery. 12v output on relay goes to vacuum solenoid. works like charm, never had a problem.
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Old 10-15-2002, 10:24 PM
  #43  
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Originally posted by Mishmosh


You can. The circuit board is the same. The only difference is the switch ground out (white) and the LED with any step-down resistors there may be. Check out the pic below and carefully solder... Don't know if it's wise to operate a LED AND a solenoid though. I'd rather have a working MEVI than shiftlight though...

[
Well, I did it. The led light has a red wire (+, I assumed) and a black wire (switched ground, I assume). I simply cut the red wire to kill power and spliced into the black wire. The VIM works flawlessly. I will wire a .5 amp fuse for safe measure. It's funny though, when you program the DIP switches, the VI actuator clicks open to signal the settings. Also, when you switch the key to "on" the actuator kicks on for a second. It all makes sense though.

My question is this:

AM I GOING TO FRY ANYTHING RUNNING THIS SETUP!!!!!


It's fairly cold out right now and my car was hauling some booty with the VI opening in all gears. I also forgot how rough sounding the exhaust gets when it's cold out. It's a raspy SOB. It was hard to hear the VI opening at first because the all the rasp.


Dave
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Old 10-15-2002, 10:36 PM
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Originally posted by Dave B


Well, I did it. The led light has a red wire (+, I assumed) and a black wire (switched ground, I assume). I simply cut the red wire to kill power and spliced into the black wire. The VIM works flawlessly. I will wire a .5 amp fuse for safe measure. It's funny though, when you program the DIP switches, the VI actuator clicks open to signal the settings. Also, when you switch the key to "on" the actuator kicks on for a second. It all makes sense though.

My question is this:

AM I GOING TO FRY ANYTHING RUNNING THIS SETUP!!!!!


It's fairly cold out right now and my car was hauling some booty with the VI opening in all gears. I also forgot how rough sounding the exhaust gets when it's cold out. It's a raspy SOB. It was hard to hear the VI opening at first because the all the rasp.


Dave

I don't think you're going to fry anything at all. If the MAP switch pulled too much current, then my .5 amp fuse would have been blown already...so I think you're fine. When Harlan said to use a relay...he meant with things that actually pull a decent amount of current....
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Old 10-16-2002, 08:47 AM
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Originally posted by Dave B
also forgot how rough sounding the exhaust gets when it's cold out. It's a raspy SOB. It was hard to hear the VI opening at first because the all the rasp.
I could never quite understand how some of you guys can hear your relays or valves open... All I hear is the Greddy cat-back drowning things out... Even overpowers the intake growl.
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Old 10-16-2002, 09:00 AM
  #46  
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Originally posted by Mishmosh


I could never quite understand how some of you guys can hear your relays or valves open... All I hear is the Greddy cat-back drowning things out... Even overpowers the intake growl.
I can hear my valves open...but I have the A'PEXi cat-back and DaveB has a custom b-pipe with a stock muffler I believe.
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Old 10-16-2002, 09:05 AM
  #47  
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Originally posted by BriGuyMax


I can hear my valves open...but I have the A'PEXi cat-back and DaveB has a custom b-pipe with a stock muffler I believe.
I've got a hybrid intake, WSP y-pipe, Stillen B-pipe, and stock muffler. Pretty much all I hear is the intake so listening for the change in the intake's pitch at the switchover is pretty easy. I do notice that when the intake manifold is heat soaked, the intake sound is much deeper on the switch over.


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Old 10-16-2002, 09:12 AM
  #48  
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Originally posted by Mishmosh


I could never quite understand how some of you guys can hear your relays or valves open... All I hear is the Greddy cat-back drowning things out... Even overpowers the intake growl.
me too.. but I have a y-pipe, CAI, custom exhaust, no resonator, 2k1 muffler
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Old 10-16-2002, 09:13 AM
  #49  
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I do'nt hear mine in 1st too much, second seems to be more noticeable, and 3rd even more.


It's cool, well, this is for auto guys, when you set your switch to open @ 5K, in 3rd, that is almost exaclty @ 100mph.

My exhaust is really quiet, so I'm like Dave, all I pretty much hear is the intake side of things. I hear the switchover most of the time.

Sounds better than the way it used to @ 6.5K, not like it was going to blow up or something with the old manifold.

Also, I think my intake note got quieter with the VI, even when its not open, because I ride around in my friends Maxi and his is really loud with his hybrid. I too have a hybrid, but it's not as loud as it used to be.
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Old 10-16-2002, 09:36 AM
  #50  
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Originally posted by NmexMAX

Also, I think my intake note got quieter with the VI, even when its not open, because I ride around in my friends Maxi and his is really loud with his hybrid. I too have a hybrid, but it's not as loud as it used to be.
I noticed the same exact thing. I don't know why the intake is quieter at all rpms with the VIM, but it is. At first I thouhgt I had a vacuum leak because the intake was so much quieter. I checked the vacuum and it was ideal. A quiet intake isn't a bad thing though, the sound is much more refined, especially after 5000rpms.


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Old 10-16-2002, 10:37 AM
  #51  
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Originally posted by Dave B


Well, I did it. The led light has a red wire (+, I assumed) and a black wire (switched ground, I assume). I simply cut the red wire to kill power and spliced into the black wire. The VIM works flawlessly. I will wire a .5 amp fuse for safe measure. It's funny though, when you program the DIP switches, the VI actuator clicks open to signal the settings. Also, when you switch the key to "on" the actuator kicks on for a second. It all makes sense though.

My question is this:

AM I GOING TO FRY ANYTHING RUNNING THIS SETUP!!!!!


It's fairly cold out right now and my car was hauling some booty with the VI opening in all gears. I also forgot how rough sounding the exhaust gets when it's cold out. It's a raspy SOB. It was hard to hear the VI opening at first because the all the rasp.


Dave
Glad that worked for you...so this goes to show if you want to save 5 dollars you can just get an shift light and your all set..

-John
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