Tapping noise and shaky idle after VI install
10-08-2002, 09:49 AM
#1
Tapping noise and shaky idle after VI install
I am at work right now so I did not have a chance to pull any codes.
I started my car today and immediately noticed my idle was not constant. It was sort of jumpy and skipping. Not the steady, normal idle my car has.
I thougt it was related to a possible vacuum leak with the new Variable Intake. So I start driving and now I get really nervous, as I am going up a hill I see my MIL light is flashing. I slow down and it stops flashing and stays on constant. I only work about ten minutes from my house so I baby it the whole way there.
I get to work and I lift the hood. Car is still idling funny.
I hear a tapping coming from the right rear portion of my engine in front of the idler assembly. I also can smell fuel. I pull the cable ti increase RPM's and the tapping noise is still there.
Cylinder misfire maybe, injector problem...... nt sure.
I am under the impression that this is all related to the installation of the VI but I wanted to see if any one has had similar experiences.
Again, I am at work and did not have a chance to pull codes yet
My first stop after leaving work will be at Auto Zone to get them to pull codes for me. From there I will be heading home. I will be troubleshooting ignition coils by removing one and starting the car to see if the noise disappears.
I am also going to check coil voltage and check to make sure my idler assembly is on properly.
The other issue is I need to put another gasket in place where the EGR tube joins the rear of the intake.
Could a vacuum leak cause any of this? I drove the car for a day and a half and it was fine.
Thanks in advance!
Dave
I started my car today and immediately noticed my idle was not constant. It was sort of jumpy and skipping. Not the steady, normal idle my car has.
I thougt it was related to a possible vacuum leak with the new Variable Intake. So I start driving and now I get really nervous, as I am going up a hill I see my MIL light is flashing. I slow down and it stops flashing and stays on constant. I only work about ten minutes from my house so I baby it the whole way there.
I get to work and I lift the hood. Car is still idling funny.
I hear a tapping coming from the right rear portion of my engine in front of the idler assembly. I also can smell fuel. I pull the cable ti increase RPM's and the tapping noise is still there.
Cylinder misfire maybe, injector problem...... nt sure.
I am under the impression that this is all related to the installation of the VI but I wanted to see if any one has had similar experiences.
Again, I am at work and did not have a chance to pull codes yet
My first stop after leaving work will be at Auto Zone to get them to pull codes for me. From there I will be heading home. I will be troubleshooting ignition coils by removing one and starting the car to see if the noise disappears.
I am also going to check coil voltage and check to make sure my idler assembly is on properly.
The other issue is I need to put another gasket in place where the EGR tube joins the rear of the intake.
Could a vacuum leak cause any of this? I drove the car for a day and a half and it was fine.
Thanks in advance!
Dave
10-08-2002, 10:15 AM
#2
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Re: Tapping noise and shaky idle after VI install
Originally posted by dlicari
I am at work right now so I did not have a chance to pull any codes.
I started my car today and immediately noticed my idle was not constant. It was sort of jumpy and skipping. Not the steady, normal idle my car has.
I thougt it was related to a possible vacuum leak with the new Variable Intake. So I start driving and now I get really nervous, as I am going up a hill I see my MIL light is flashing. I slow down and it stops flashing and stays on constant. I only work about ten minutes from my house so I baby it the whole way there.
I get to work and I lift the hood. Car is still idling funny.
I hear a tapping coming from the right rear portion of my engine in front of the idler assembly. I also can smell fuel. I pull the cable ti increase RPM's and the tapping noise is still there.
Cylinder misfire maybe, injector problem...... nt sure.
I am under the impression that this is all related to the installation of the VI but I wanted to see if any one has had similar experiences.
Again, I am at work and did not have a chance to pull codes yet
My first stop after leaving work will be at Auto Zone to get them to pull codes for me. From there I will be heading home. I will be troubleshooting ignition coils by removing one and starting the car to see if the noise disappears.
I am also going to check coil voltage and check to make sure my idler assembly is on properly.
The other issue is I need to put another gasket in place where the EGR tube joins the rear of the intake.
Could a vacuum leak cause any of this? I drove the car for a day and a half and it was fine.
Thanks in advance!
Dave
I am at work right now so I did not have a chance to pull any codes.
I started my car today and immediately noticed my idle was not constant. It was sort of jumpy and skipping. Not the steady, normal idle my car has.
I thougt it was related to a possible vacuum leak with the new Variable Intake. So I start driving and now I get really nervous, as I am going up a hill I see my MIL light is flashing. I slow down and it stops flashing and stays on constant. I only work about ten minutes from my house so I baby it the whole way there.
I get to work and I lift the hood. Car is still idling funny.
I hear a tapping coming from the right rear portion of my engine in front of the idler assembly. I also can smell fuel. I pull the cable ti increase RPM's and the tapping noise is still there.
Cylinder misfire maybe, injector problem...... nt sure.
I am under the impression that this is all related to the installation of the VI but I wanted to see if any one has had similar experiences.
Again, I am at work and did not have a chance to pull codes yet
My first stop after leaving work will be at Auto Zone to get them to pull codes for me. From there I will be heading home. I will be troubleshooting ignition coils by removing one and starting the car to see if the noise disappears.
I am also going to check coil voltage and check to make sure my idler assembly is on properly.
The other issue is I need to put another gasket in place where the EGR tube joins the rear of the intake.
Could a vacuum leak cause any of this? I drove the car for a day and a half and it was fine.
Thanks in advance!
Dave
A flashing CEL is not good and suggests that there is a major mechanical problem. A steady light usually indicates an emissions problem (EVAP, O2 sensor, cat). A vacuum leak will certainly give you a funky idle and if the vacuum leak is at the upper to lower manifold gasket, it is quite possible that you could smell gas because the fuel injector sits in the lower manifold. The ticking you hear is probably the fuel injectors. Injectors by design are pretty darn "ticky". Take a piece of 1/2" hose and place it at various parts of the engine and listen by putting your ear to it. My guess it that you've got a vacuum leak at the manifold gasket, which is causing air to come in unmetered by the MAF, which then confuses the ECU, and the injectors start working overtime to keep the engine from running lean, which then makes for a very rich running engine, and ultimately the "gas smell'. The CEL probably flashes while driving because more systems become affected under load and as the rpms rise. It is quite possible that the vacuum leak is causing the ECU to think there is a serious problem.
Get a vacuum gauge (MityVac) and hook it up to the vacuum line on your fuel pressure regulator. Vacuum should be a steady number between 16-22Hg at idle.
Dave
10-08-2002, 11:07 AM
#5
Re: Re: Tapping noise and shaky idle after VI install
First off, why not pull the codes yourself? You've got a 97 and I assume you have flathead screw driver. That's all you need. The directions are right on the ECU itself.
I was feeling kind of lazy......
Get a vacuum gauge (MityVac) and hook it up to the vacuum line on your fuel pressure regulator.
Vacuum should be a steady number between 16-22Hg at idle
{b]Where might I find a MityVac? I have a T tapped into the FPR vaccum source. Can I do it there?[/b]
Take a piece of 1/2" hose and place it at various parts of the engine and listen by putting your ear to it.
I will do this.
The ticking you hear is probably the fuel injectors. Injectors by design are pretty darn "ticky".
Well. this got my attention as I never heard this before. I actually hear a steady tapping, like someone is trying to get out of the lower manifold.
Thanks,
Dave
I was feeling kind of lazy......
Get a vacuum gauge (MityVac) and hook it up to the vacuum line on your fuel pressure regulator.
Vacuum should be a steady number between 16-22Hg at idle
{b]Where might I find a MityVac? I have a T tapped into the FPR vaccum source. Can I do it there?[/b]
Take a piece of 1/2" hose and place it at various parts of the engine and listen by putting your ear to it.
I will do this.
The ticking you hear is probably the fuel injectors. Injectors by design are pretty darn "ticky".
Well. this got my attention as I never heard this before. I actually hear a steady tapping, like someone is trying to get out of the lower manifold.
Thanks,
Dave
10-08-2002, 11:51 AM
#8
Did you tighten your manifold bolts down in the proper sequence? Did you torque them to spec, or use the strength of God to tighten them and make sure they never move?? Sounds to me like a manifold leak. I saw one of the VI thread saying how the manifold bolts do not have to be torqued that hard.
DW
DW
10-08-2002, 11:57 AM
#9
Originally posted by dwapenyi
Did you tighten your manifold bolts down in the proper sequence? Did you torque them to spec, or use the strength of God to tighten them and make sure they never move?? Sounds to me like a manifold leak. I saw one of the VI thread saying how the manifold bolts do not have to be torqued that hard.
DW
Did you tighten your manifold bolts down in the proper sequence? Did you torque them to spec, or use the strength of God to tighten them and make sure they never move?? Sounds to me like a manifold leak. I saw one of the VI thread saying how the manifold bolts do not have to be torqued that hard.
DW
10-08-2002, 12:40 PM
#11
I will tear the motherfcker apart today after work
Originally posted by bags533
Like I said on the phone..maybe something is loose.. BUT I also never knew injectors were "ticky"
Just look over eveything you did and try what has already been stated
Like I said on the phone..maybe something is loose.. BUT I also never knew injectors were "ticky"
Just look over eveything you did and try what has already been stated
After I pull some codes I should have someplaces to start. My fear is I will pull the codes and my CEL will just blink endlessly for days and days because so much needs to be corrected.....
10-08-2002, 12:51 PM
#13
Originally posted by dwapenyi
Then maybe, like SX7R mentioned, it might be a spark plug connection. Loose coil
DW
Then maybe, like SX7R mentioned, it might be a spark plug connection. Loose coil
DW
Thanks All
10-08-2002, 04:42 PM
#15
Pulled the codes and here is what I got
0509 Upstream O2 sensor high voltage fault
0302 EGR insufficient or excessive flow detected
0103 Engine coolant temp sensor or circuit fault
0407 Crankshaft position sensor (REF) or circuit fault
I know I have a leak at the EGR downtube and am going to check all of my connectors.
I do know these codes do tie together
Dave
0302 EGR insufficient or excessive flow detected
0103 Engine coolant temp sensor or circuit fault
0407 Crankshaft position sensor (REF) or circuit fault
I know I have a leak at the EGR downtube and am going to check all of my connectors.
I do know these codes do tie together
Dave
10-08-2002, 09:57 PM
#17
Re: Got rid of all CEL's
Originally posted by dlicari
Idle is still low. I will adjust tomorrow.
I think my RPW switch is faulty. Not triggering actuator at RPM setting.
Tired,
Dave
Idle is still low. I will adjust tomorrow.
I think my RPW switch is faulty. Not triggering actuator at RPM setting.
Tired,
Dave
also that the RPM light is coming on when it turns on
check to ensure the GND of the map/baro switch is good
check all wiring before you call the RPM switch bad
get some sleep and tackle it when you get back
use that multimeter you just got
10-09-2002, 04:15 AM
#18
Re: Re: Got rid of all CEL's
Originally posted by bags533
check to ensure the REALY is working
also that the RPM light is coming on when it turns on
check to ensure the GND of the map/baro switch is good
check all wiring before you call the RPM switch bad
get some sleep and tackle it when you get back
use that multimeter you just got
check to ensure the REALY is working
also that the RPM light is coming on when it turns on
check to ensure the GND of the map/baro switch is good
check all wiring before you call the RPM switch bad
get some sleep and tackle it when you get back
use that multimeter you just got
hooked the switched ground to the MAP ground
10-09-2002, 06:54 AM
#19
Re: Re: Re: Got rid of all CEL's
Originally posted by redmaxpa007
i think he removed the relay all together.
hooked the switched ground to the MAP ground
i think he removed the relay all together.
hooked the switched ground to the MAP ground
Dave
10-09-2002, 07:07 AM
#20
Re: Re: Re: Re: Got rid of all CEL's
Originally posted by dlicari
I am going to change the wiring this morning. I need to get a fused line and I will see what happens.
Dave
I am going to change the wiring this morning. I need to get a fused line and I will see what happens.
Dave
are you going to rewire like we talked about?? the switched ground to the MAP ground?
10-14-2002, 05:27 PM
#26
Hey fellas
I was in Vegas for a few days and could not wait to get back.
Updates: I oredered a brand new EGR tube gasket. I put the old one in and I still have a leak. I measured it with a vacuum gauge the day I left and it was between 10 and 11, but steady. Haynes manual states that that will be due to a leak from the intake manifold.
My idle is still choppy which I believe is directly related to losing a lot of vacuum to the leak. Normal vacuum is at least 17 I believe.
I did a quick wire withoput the relay prior to leaving but now my vacuum lever is always actuated....must be a mix up somewhere.
I also purchased a new throttle body gasket. Currently, I am using a fabricated one from gasket material...I had a McGuyver moment.
Two quick questions: how did you guys replace with a new gasket? At the time of install or later? If later, how did you replace it?
Also, if someone can help me out with the wiring in layments terms, I would appreciateit. I saw the diagram on hype's site but would like a Cliff notes version as in...red goes to battery,green to... etc.
I appreciate you guys helping out.
I did go for a few spirited runs tonight with the lever actuated. Even with the leak, the car hauls a$$.(automatic). I am anxious to see the performance gains when my vacuum leak is fixed.
Dave
Updates: I oredered a brand new EGR tube gasket. I put the old one in and I still have a leak. I measured it with a vacuum gauge the day I left and it was between 10 and 11, but steady. Haynes manual states that that will be due to a leak from the intake manifold.
My idle is still choppy which I believe is directly related to losing a lot of vacuum to the leak. Normal vacuum is at least 17 I believe.
I did a quick wire withoput the relay prior to leaving but now my vacuum lever is always actuated....must be a mix up somewhere.
I also purchased a new throttle body gasket. Currently, I am using a fabricated one from gasket material...I had a McGuyver moment.
Two quick questions: how did you guys replace with a new gasket? At the time of install or later? If later, how did you replace it?
Also, if someone can help me out with the wiring in layments terms, I would appreciateit. I saw the diagram on hype's site but would like a Cliff notes version as in...red goes to battery,green to... etc.
I appreciate you guys helping out.
I did go for a few spirited runs tonight with the lever actuated. Even with the leak, the car hauls a$$.(automatic). I am anxious to see the performance gains when my vacuum leak is fixed.
Dave
10-16-2002, 03:31 PM
#31
Re: Re: ttt
Originally posted by bags533
you already got both answers from me..lol.. I will only give another one if you paint pinky on jeff's winshield
He may not even notice it. I think he just ordered his customized plates to read PINKY and a scarf to wear while he drive and the color is of course....pink.
jeff
you already got both answers from me..lol.. I will only give another one if you paint pinky on jeff's winshield
He may not even notice it. I think he just ordered his customized plates to read PINKY and a scarf to wear while he drive and the color is of course....pink.
jeff
10-16-2002, 04:08 PM
#32
Hey Dave, this site might help if you haven't seen this forum...bags actually made a picture up of the wiring if your still having problems...Hope this helps if you didn't get it figured out. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....7&goto=newpost
If you have already seen this please disregard.
-John
BTW it is on like page 3
If you have already seen this please disregard.
-John
BTW it is on like page 3
10-17-2002, 04:57 AM
#33
Re: Re: ttt
Originally posted by bags533
you already got both answers from me..lol.. I will only give another one if you paint pinky on jeff's winshield
jeff
you already got both answers from me..lol.. I will only give another one if you paint pinky on jeff's winshield
jeff
10-17-2002, 06:56 PM
#35
VI is fully functional
No vaccuum leak and RPM switch is doing its job..
I replaced the EGR gasket and the throttle body gasket. The EGR gasket will need to be modified slightly. The holes will not line up properly and the two top sides need to be trimmed.
The replacement was much bigger than the original.
Thanks to Briguy, Ant , Bags and manuy others for the help. And Pinky too....j/k Cracker!
Dave
I replaced the EGR gasket and the throttle body gasket. The EGR gasket will need to be modified slightly. The holes will not line up properly and the two top sides need to be trimmed.
The replacement was much bigger than the original.
Thanks to Briguy, Ant , Bags and manuy others for the help. And Pinky too....j/k Cracker!
Dave
10-18-2002, 04:22 AM
#36
Re: VI is fully functional
Originally posted by dlicari
No vaccuum leak and RPM switch is doing its job..
I replaced the EGR gasket and the throttle body gasket. The EGR gasket will need to be modified slightly. The holes will not line up properly and the two top sides need to be trimmed.
The replacement was much bigger than the original.
Thanks to Briguy, Ant , Bags and manuy others for the help. And Pinky too....j/k Cracker!
Dave
No vaccuum leak and RPM switch is doing its job..
I replaced the EGR gasket and the throttle body gasket. The EGR gasket will need to be modified slightly. The holes will not line up properly and the two top sides need to be trimmed.
The replacement was much bigger than the original.
Thanks to Briguy, Ant , Bags and manuy others for the help. And Pinky too....j/k Cracker!
Dave
10-18-2002, 05:26 AM
#37
Re: Re: VI is fully functional
Originally posted by redmaxpa007
sorry for not getting to your house yesterday.. got cought up in some home issuse..
sorry for not getting to your house yesterday.. got cought up in some home issuse..
Momma was keeping her pimp hand strong huh?
10-18-2002, 06:03 AM
#38
Re: Re: Re: VI is fully functional
Originally posted by dlicari
Momma was keeping her pimp hand strong huh?
Momma was keeping her pimp hand strong huh?
there was other stuff besides that.. (i have a compressor now............drooooll.. air tools BABY!!!)
10-18-2002, 12:42 PM
#39
Re: VI is fully functional
Originally posted by dlicari
No vaccuum leak and RPM switch is doing its job..
I replaced the EGR gasket and the throttle body gasket. The EGR gasket will need to be modified slightly. The holes will not line up properly and the two top sides need to be trimmed.
The replacement was much bigger than the original.
Thanks to Briguy, Ant , Bags and many others for the help. And Pinky too....j/k Cracker!
Dave
No vaccuum leak and RPM switch is doing its job..
I replaced the EGR gasket and the throttle body gasket. The EGR gasket will need to be modified slightly. The holes will not line up properly and the two top sides need to be trimmed.
The replacement was much bigger than the original.
Thanks to Briguy, Ant , Bags and many others for the help. And Pinky too....j/k Cracker!
Dave
The automatic now feels much stronger. I had a chance to open it up today and there is a huge difference. I will be looking into ECU options in the near future.
Dave
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