SleeperSE

- I just finished installing my Stainless Steel Brake Lines (From Stillen, made by Goodridge). The job was pretty dirty, but fun. No instructions make for a wonderful experience.
- Coupled with my new Porterfield R4-S brake pads, the car can stop mighty quick, BUT, the SS lines seem to have changed where the brake pedal starts working. It used to be about a fifth of the way on the travel. Now it's more like half-way. I'm worried. There wasn't a noticeable difference in feedback through the pedal, as advertised, so I'm wondering if something went wrong.
- When I bled the brake fluid, I did push very lightly (about 1.5 inches) down on the brake pedal to speed things up. I was told that this would not harm the brake booster. I'm worried that it did. Would this affect where the pedal starts working? [If it helps, there does not seem to be any leakage at any of the seals. The resevoir has stayed up where it was filled.]
- Thanks for any help.

Whitemax

The pedal had to really be pressed before it would stop. After about 3 days and she started stopping on a dime.

SleeperSE

- Okay, thanks.
- Questions:
1. Did your brake pedal "catch point" go lower too?
2. When your Max started to stop really well, did the "catch point" on the brake pedal return to its normal position?

Car With No Name

When I did mine, I also changed my rotors to Cross-drilled Powerstop rotors. I felt it grabbed much harder fairly quickly, but now it's not grabbing as well. I've got a tiny leek in my right front SS brake line. Need to get it fixed soon...

Whitemax

Once everything settled in, I had to put alot less pressure on the pedal to get it to stop. Much firmer. Much less pedal travel. Before it settled in, I was really worried. I had to stand on the brakes to stop. i almost rearended someone right after I left the mechanic. Give it a couple days, follow the pad brake-in steps, and unless theres a leak somewhere, you'll be fine.