Valve noise until engine hot - help
#1
Valve noise until engine hot - help
When I start my car after it has been sitting for a while (ie overnight, all day when I am at work) the valves noise is scary. Even after the oil pressure has come up I still get the valve noise. It sounds like it is coming from the passanger upper side of the motor. Once the car get warmed up the noise will greatly diminish...about 90% quieter. Once the car is warm you hear a deep knock, knock, knock.
I am **** about my car oil changed every 3000, every maintenance has been done accordingly. I have 130K on the motor. To young for it to be making all this noise.
I have had a mechanic look and he says that I have a rod knock and valve issues....ie many $$$$.
Help my baby is sick.
I am **** about my car oil changed every 3000, every maintenance has been done accordingly. I have 130K on the motor. To young for it to be making all this noise.
I have had a mechanic look and he says that I have a rod knock and valve issues....ie many $$$$.
Help my baby is sick.
#2
Thats not a valve noise, but its the timing chain rattling. It happens because the hydrolic chain tensioner doesnt build up enough pressure to keep the chain tight, and it rattles. If you get it all replaced it will cost you big money. Do you use synthetic or dyno oil?
#4
Originally posted by 95Max
Started out with Dyno Castrol GTX now Synethic usually Mobil 1 or Valvoline
Started out with Dyno Castrol GTX now Synethic usually Mobil 1 or Valvoline
- Buy the tensioner kit from Nissan
- Only replace the "plunger" part which can be done through the access plate on the timing chain cover. It's on the passenger side of the engine, of course. This plate is held my 4 10mm bolts. Keep the chain guide that comes in the kit, you can't change it using this method, the access hole is too small.
- The shop manual has a little write up on how to do it.
- Small hands help It was a PITA to do, but I got it done.
- Just make sure you don't let the little plunger fall out as you're taking the old one out (mine did and it's somewhere in the bottom of the timing case. Thank God it didn't wedge between the chain and the gear down there )
- The new plunger assembly prevents the drain of oil after the car has been sitting for awhlie. This was a design fault on the '95s and Sentra's also.
My car is a '95 with almost 200,000 miles on it & it's still purring. That ugly rattle is gone.
#5
Thanks for the advice
Originally posted by 95bluse
It's timing chain rattle, here's how to fix it, even though my mechanic told me that the chain had to be replaced:
- Buy the tensioner kit from Nissan
- Only replace the "plunger" part which can be done through the access plate on the timing chain cover. It's on the passenger side of the engine, of course. This plate is held my 4 10mm bolts. Keep the chain guide that comes in the kit, you can't change it using this method, the access hole is too small.
- The shop manual has a little write up on how to do it.
- Small hands help It was a PITA to do, but I got it done.
- Just make sure you don't let the little plunger fall out as you're taking the old one out (mine did and it's somewhere in the bottom of the timing case. Thank God it didn't wedge between the chain and the gear down there )
- The new plunger assembly prevents the drain of oil after the car has been sitting for awhlie. This was a design fault on the '95s and Sentra's also.
My car is a '95 with almost 200,000 miles on it & it's still purring. That ugly rattle is gone.
It's timing chain rattle, here's how to fix it, even though my mechanic told me that the chain had to be replaced:
- Buy the tensioner kit from Nissan
- Only replace the "plunger" part which can be done through the access plate on the timing chain cover. It's on the passenger side of the engine, of course. This plate is held my 4 10mm bolts. Keep the chain guide that comes in the kit, you can't change it using this method, the access hole is too small.
- The shop manual has a little write up on how to do it.
- Small hands help It was a PITA to do, but I got it done.
- Just make sure you don't let the little plunger fall out as you're taking the old one out (mine did and it's somewhere in the bottom of the timing case. Thank God it didn't wedge between the chain and the gear down there )
- The new plunger assembly prevents the drain of oil after the car has been sitting for awhlie. This was a design fault on the '95s and Sentra's also.
My car is a '95 with almost 200,000 miles on it & it's still purring. That ugly rattle is gone.
#6
Thanks for the advise but what about the knocking when the engine is hot. If you put the car on a lift you can hear the knocking best from under the car.
I think that the tire/lube place started the car without oil. Since the problems started shortly after they changed the oil. But since I have on way to prove this.....I am stuck with fixing my self.
I think that the tire/lube place started the car without oil. Since the problems started shortly after they changed the oil. But since I have on way to prove this.....I am stuck with fixing my self.
#7
I have a little knocking sound just as you described coming from the engine bay on my 99 occasionally. As it turns out, it's just a noisey A/C system. If I throw it on Econo it completely goes away.
#9
Originally posted by 95Max
Thanks for the advise but what about the knocking when the engine is hot. If you put the car on a lift you can hear the knocking best from under the car.
I think that the tire/lube place started the car without oil. Since the problems started shortly after they changed the oil. But since I have on way to prove this.....I am stuck with fixing my self.
Thanks for the advise but what about the knocking when the engine is hot. If you put the car on a lift you can hear the knocking best from under the car.
I think that the tire/lube place started the car without oil. Since the problems started shortly after they changed the oil. But since I have on way to prove this.....I am stuck with fixing my self.
That's why I don't let anybody do anything on my car.
Anyway, I hope it turns it out to be something minor, but if it's a heavy knocking sound that you can hear best under the engine, it may very well be main or rod bearings.
#10
Steve,
You are just about right...except that they "work" in teams. One "tech" is not paying attention and starts the car b4 the other puts the oil in.
The knocking is a deep tone that you can hear best from under the car.
Is that what you mean by heavy knocking?
Thanks
Chris
You are just about right...except that they "work" in teams. One "tech" is not paying attention and starts the car b4 the other puts the oil in.
The knocking is a deep tone that you can hear best from under the car.
Is that what you mean by heavy knocking?
Thanks
Chris
#11
Originally posted by 95Max
Steve,
You are just about right...except that they "work" in teams. One "tech" is not paying attention and starts the car b4 the other puts the oil in.
The knocking is a deep tone that you can hear best from under the car.
Is that what you mean by heavy knocking?
Thanks
Chris
Steve,
You are just about right...except that they "work" in teams. One "tech" is not paying attention and starts the car b4 the other puts the oil in.
The knocking is a deep tone that you can hear best from under the car.
Is that what you mean by heavy knocking?
Thanks
Chris
#12
Originally posted by 95Max
Steve,
You are just about right...except that they "work" in teams. One "tech" is not paying attention and starts the car b4 the other puts the oil in.
The knocking is a deep tone that you can hear best from under the car.
Is that what you mean by heavy knocking?
Thanks
Chris
Steve,
You are just about right...except that they "work" in teams. One "tech" is not paying attention and starts the car b4 the other puts the oil in.
The knocking is a deep tone that you can hear best from under the car.
Is that what you mean by heavy knocking?
Thanks
Chris
#14
well i think you may both be right, there is a possibility that if the chain is loose or off, it can cause the valves to bend due to zero clearance, for a mechanic to change your timing chain is roughly 10 hours of labor. You may want to take it to someone, like Nissan, for a second opinion. Regardless, it sounds pricey.
#15
Thanks for all the help. My mechanic has always been great. I was looking to pick the "brain" of the org and see if someone can but with some other diagnosis....a less expensive one.
Munji,
Great minds think alike already changed the belts.
So here are some options:
Re-man motor $3200 + labor
re-build existing $4500-5000
Get one from a smashed max/i30 with low mileage ??? + labor
Munji,
Great minds think alike already changed the belts.
So here are some options:
Re-man motor $3200 + labor
re-build existing $4500-5000
Get one from a smashed max/i30 with low mileage ??? + labor
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Valve noise until engine hot - help
lifters- our cars use hydrolic lifters and they get oil coking over time. the lifter (on new engines) rides in the camshaft at all times. after a while (60k) the lifters dont raise immediately and the cam lobe rotates and "smackes" the top of the lifter. oil additives and flushes might help for a little bit but it wont fix the problem.
#20
Re: Re: Valve noise until engine hot - help
Originally posted by 333matt333
lifters- our cars use hydrolic lifters and they get oil coking over time. the lifter (on new engines) rides in the camshaft at all times. after a while (60k) the lifters dont raise immediately and the cam lobe rotates and "smackes" the top of the lifter. oil additives and flushes might help for a little bit but it wont fix the problem.
lifters- our cars use hydrolic lifters and they get oil coking over time. the lifter (on new engines) rides in the camshaft at all times. after a while (60k) the lifters dont raise immediately and the cam lobe rotates and "smackes" the top of the lifter. oil additives and flushes might help for a little bit but it wont fix the problem.
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