Last thursday I bought my first max. A 96 SE with a 5-speed. I love the car very much. Actually its the best car I've ever had. I just have one problem, when I got in the car today to leave work, I could not get it into any of the gears. Only when I turned the car off could I get it in gear. Since its a manual I figured the master cylander could be low. When I checked it, it was completely dry. I filled it up with Dot 3 brake fluid and pumped the pedal to bleed it enough to get it home. I checked below the car for any fluid and found a residue on the botom of the trans. My best guess is that its the slave cylander. I plan on getting underneath the car tomarow to check it. My questions are where is the slave cylander located? Is it external or internal, how much does one cost, and is this a normal problem for these cars? The car has 100,000 miles and is in perfect condition. Thanx for your time, any help would be appriciated. Perry.

 

before you check your slave cylinder, you might want to check your 'hydralic hose'. it's probably licking there and is much easier and cheaper to fix. the hose cost $60 at the dealer. check out

http://motorvate.ca/auto/maxima/clut...h_hose_fix.htm

on how to replace the hose.

this happen to me on my car and I replace the hose and all is good now.

 

Sounds right, I had to do mine also. Make sure you bleed from both spots.

 

Thanx for the idea, I'll check that tonight.

 

just an automatic driver question, but why would you fill it up with break fluid? jw

 

If you do need a new clutch, you might as well do the flywheel while they're in there

 

just to add to this slowly dateing thread...

I had my slave cyclinder replaced and it looks like my hose is also leaking.

I believe it's a hose which is only like 8 inches long???
BUT costs like 65$CDN at the dealership... WTF! so expensive... damn!

I'm picking up the hose on Friday and gonna get it installed there.
Ugh I would do this part myself, but you gotta hate winter and having no friggin garage!

 

I had the same problem. You can't just push the pedal to bleed them. Like mentioned before there are 2 spots to bleed from. Do that and then fill up the cylinder and your clutch should be fine.

 

I believe the part that you are taling about ( the slave cylinder) is located on top of the tranny. If you take out your air box you will be able to see it. Is right by the starter. Not underneath the car. I had the same problem with my old car and ya it was the slave cylinder. On of the seals inside came apart so the fuild was leaking big time. It ease easy to replace it your self. Good luck!!

 

The hydraulic fluid used for brake lines also works fine in clutch lines. There's no need to use a different fluid.

 

I'll tell you a little secret. You can save some money (quite a bit, actually) if you replace the flexible hose portions of the clutch hydraulic circuit with a simple brake line. Brake lines have the female flare connection at one end (connects to steel line coming from junction box), and the banjo fitting (to connect to the slave cylinder) at the other end. I did this when I did my transmission conversion because the clutch lines I ordered from the dealer were taking so long to come in. Works great!

 

seriously? hmm... i'll have to look into that

I thought the way they were connected, you needed their special hose.
I'll have to look into the brake line stuff then.

Thanks

 

Before you do any of the above, refill the fluid and bleed the system as mentioned above. Look for leaks. If you find none, and the system maintains pressure you don't have to buy any of the above parts...

 

Damn, I didn't know so many people replyed to my message. I didn't get any emails. Tell me more about the second place to bleed the system. I only bled it from the slave cylander. And as it turns out, it was the line that connects to the slave cylander that was leaking. One more question, my clutch went out today so I would like to know of a good clutch for a reasonable amount of money. I can get one from work for $130.00. Also, do you have to drop the whole K member to change it, or can you pull out just the trans? Thanx for the replies. Later. Perry

 

I've heard of a Goldmember but what's a K member? Anyway, to replace the clutch you pull the drive shafts and starter, unbolt the slave cylinder from the transmission, unbolt the lower engine support member from the chassis, unbolt the transmission mount, lower the transmission and engine a couple of inches, remove the tranny housing bolts and pull off the transmission.

The second bleed valve we are talking about is mounted high on the driver's side strut tower, facing the battery. It terminates a fairly larger diameter steel line that runs from a junction box, coils around and goes up to the strut tower. No one seems to know the purpose of this line. When I did my auto to 5 speed conversion, I left it off and plugged the junction box.

 

Sorry, I don't know how the max's front suspention is set up. I've always owned mustangs so this car is a little different than what I'm used too. Thanks for all the information on the clutch swap, I'm gonna have a machanic I trust do it, but I still wanted to know how much of a task it is. The only thing left is the clutch issue. What should I buy? I want a clutch that will last a long time. If possible, another hundred thousand miles like this one. Performance is not a main concer here. But would be an added plus. I don't have the money for a aluminum flywheel right now so just a good clutch I can trust in is all I want. Thanx for the help every one. Perry

 

Clutch life depends much more on how you drive than on what brand you use. If you're not making serious hp, then go with the OEM clutch.