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Big difference

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Old Dec 12, 2002 | 12:31 AM
  #1  
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Big difference

Well I changed my plugs, fuel filter, air filter and cleaned my pcv valve and throttle body. I went with the ngk coppers and an oem filters. The plugs weren't hard to do just have to unbolt that thing? over the right rear plug,easy enough. The fuel filter was a little harder. I took out my air box and made it much easier to get in there. It takes some muscle to get the hoses off but overall not that difficult, twisting them off worked well. The dealer said they
don't replace the pcv they just clean it,so I just cleaned mine and
worked great. I noticed that it started a lot faster and easier, it also idoled and accelerated a lot smoother than before.
Thanks to everyone that posted info and write-ups on how to do this stuff. Anyone thinking of doing there own that hasn't yet
should saves a lot of money it's not hard and if your at all mechanically inclined you won't have a problem.
Old Dec 12, 2002 | 07:48 AM
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Re: Big difference

Originally posted by 975spEEd
Well I changed my plugs, fuel filter, air filter and cleaned my pcv valve and throttle body. I went with the ngk coppers and an oem filters. The plugs weren't hard to do just have to unbolt that thing? over the right rear plug,easy enough. The fuel filter was a little harder. I took out my air box and made it much easier to get in there. It takes some muscle to get the hoses off but overall not that difficult, twisting them off worked well. The dealer said they
don't replace the pcv they just clean it,so I just cleaned mine and
worked great. I noticed that it started a lot faster and easier, it also idoled and accelerated a lot smoother than before.
Thanks to everyone that posted info and write-ups on how to do this stuff. Anyone thinking of doing there own that hasn't yet
should saves a lot of money it's not hard and if your at all mechanically inclined you won't have a problem.
I drove my car around today and noticed that the idol was higher
than it was before. Now it stays at about 800 rpms instead of about
650 where it was before. Any ideas
Old Dec 12, 2002 | 10:14 AM
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Re: Re: Big difference

Originally posted by 975spEEd


I drove my car around today and noticed that the idol was higher
than it was before. Now it stays at about 800 rpms instead of about
650 where it was before. Any ideas
Maybe an intake air leak?
Dirty Throttle body/intake?

Did you disassemble the intake plumbing when you were dealing with the fuel filter or something else?

Go back & check your work - see that all connections, clamps & hoses are secure. If the problem still exists, consider cleaning the throttle-body & butterfly plate.

There's a writeup on the .org somewhere if you search for it. I think it's also on www.motorvate.ca/


NOTE: DO NOT USE CARBURATOR/CHOKE CLEANER! Instead, use a product like STP's "Throttle Body & Air Intake Cleaner"
Old Dec 12, 2002 | 10:54 AM
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Adjust the screw on the IACV.

SuDZ
Old Dec 12, 2002 | 11:00 AM
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Originally posted by SuDZ
Adjust the screw on the IACV.

SuDZ
-Only after you've checked for air leaks & cleaned the TB, though.

If you adjust the IACV idle without addressing the true source of the problem, you're only hiding the symptom of the problem, whatever it may be.
Old Dec 12, 2002 | 11:12 AM
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Originally posted by KWheelzSB


-Only after you've checked for air leaks & cleaned the TB, though.

If you adjust the IACV idle without addressing the true source of the problem, you're only hiding the symptom of the problem, whatever it may be.
I meant after yours suggestions. I was in a rush and just put that quickly.

SuDZ
Old Dec 12, 2002 | 11:13 AM
  #7  
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Re: Big difference

Originally posted by 975spEEd
Well I changed my plugs, fuel filter, air filter and cleaned my pcv valve and throttle body. I went with the ngk coppers and an oem filters. The plugs weren't hard to do just have to unbolt that thing? over the right rear plug,easy enough. The fuel filter was a little harder. I took out my air box and made it much easier to get in there. It takes some muscle to get the hoses off but overall not that difficult, twisting them off worked well. The dealer said they
don't replace the pcv they just clean it,so I just cleaned mine and
worked great. I noticed that it started a lot faster and easier, it also idoled and accelerated a lot smoother than before.
Thanks to everyone that posted info and write-ups on how to do this stuff. Anyone thinking of doing there own that hasn't yet
should saves a lot of money it's not hard and if your at all mechanically inclined you won't have a problem.
YEAH i tried installing a new fuel filter on my own once and couldnt get the hoses off so i just gave up. So you say twisting works? Also, what all tools would I need to do this maintence that you did. And is the PCV valve hard to remove, I heard it was, where is it located again? Why not install a new one, it's like like 3 bucks!
Old Dec 12, 2002 | 11:16 AM
  #8  
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Re: Re: Big difference

Originally posted by Silviagirl79


YEAH i tried installing a new fuel filter on my own once and couldnt get the hoses off so i just gave up. So you say twisting works? Also, what all tools would I need to do this maintence that you did. And is the PCV valve hard to remove, I heard it was, where is it located again? Why not install a new one, it's like like 3 bucks!
tools are basic. A few ratchests and extensions, spark plug fitting to remove them, maybe some needle nose pliars. Screwdrivers and allen wrenches.

Nothing too major.

SuDZ
Old Dec 12, 2002 | 12:36 PM
  #9  
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Re: Big difference

Where exactly is the PCV valve? I don't think I've ever seen it!
Old Dec 12, 2002 | 12:52 PM
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Re: Re: Big difference

Originally posted by goldmax
Where exactly is the PCV valve? I don't think I've ever seen it!
It's pretty small, but costs only $3 to $4


A hint with the PCV Valve replacement - remove your FSTB if you have one, take the hoses off that round thing above the PCV Valve, and remove it from the clamp.
I took the hose off the metal tube that the PCV Valve hose connects to, then removed the PCV Valve with rubber hose attached. Put the new valve in the rubber hose then put it back in in reverse order.
Old Dec 12, 2002 | 01:04 PM
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Re: Re: Big difference

Originally posted by goldmax
Where exactly is the PCV valve? I don't think I've ever seen it!
Really good explanation of "False Air" by much missed member Daniel B. Martin. . .

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....se+ventilation

Other On-topic reading. . .

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....5&pagenumber=2

I couldn't find a pic of the PCV valve, but it's illustrated in a Hayne's manual or FSM. If you search maxima.org, you will find a pic somewhere - I'm sure I've seen it b4.
Old Dec 12, 2002 | 02:38 PM
  #12  
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Re: Re: Re: Big difference

Originally posted by ORBRIT


It's pretty small, but costs only $3 to $4


A hint with the PCV Valve replacement - remove your FSTB if you have one, take the hoses off that round thing above the PCV Valve, and remove it from the clamp.
I took the hose off the metal tube that the PCV Valve hose connects to, then removed the PCV Valve with rubber hose attached. Put the new valve in the rubber hose then put it back in in reverse order.

Why do you still have a stock airbox?!
Old Dec 12, 2002 | 03:22 PM
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How do you clean the throttle body? Can I have a write up?
Old Dec 12, 2002 | 03:46 PM
  #14  
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Big difference

Originally posted by Silviagirl79



Why do you still have a stock airbox?!
I don't. That picture was taken right after I got my Maxima - in fact just after I washed it the first time.
Old Dec 12, 2002 | 03:51 PM
  #15  
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Originally posted by hacim105
How do you clean the throttle body? Can I have a write up?
Check out the write up at http://motorvate.ca/auto/maxima/thro...y_cleaning.htm
What it doesn't mention, but is pretty obvious is that you do it when the engine is not running. As you have to remove the intake to get to the TB, the MAF sensor will probably be disconnected.
I just did this today - I couldn't believe how much carbon build up there was.
Old Dec 12, 2002 | 08:19 PM
  #16  
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Re: Re: Re: Big difference

Originally posted by KWheelzSB


Maybe an intake air leak?
Dirty Throttle body/intake?

Did you disassemble the intake plumbing when you were dealing with the fuel filter or something else?

Go back & check your work - see that all connections, clamps & hoses are secure. If the problem still exists, consider cleaning the throttle-body & butterfly plate.

There's a writeup on the .org somewhere if you search for it. I think it's also on www.motorvate.ca/


NOTE: DO NOT USE CARBURATOR/CHOKE CLEANER! Instead, use a product like STP's "Throttle Body & Air Intake Cleaner"
I double checked all the hoses and fitting, all back together.
Didn't hear or see any leaks. I noticed as the more I drove the RPM's starts settling back down but not quite where it was before. (at about 700-750 RPM) The ecu doesn't have to adjust like when you do
a mod, right? I cleaned the throttle body when I did all the other
stuff (wasn't hardly dirty) and yes I did use "throttle body cleaner"
not carb cleaner. What is the IACV, is it like an idol screw? Where
is it located? thanks for everybodys help.
Old Dec 12, 2002 | 08:50 PM
  #17  
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Re: Re: Big difference

Originally posted by Silviagirl79


YEAH i tried installing a new fuel filter on my own once and couldnt get the hoses off so i just gave up. So you say twisting works? Also, what all tools would I need to do this maintence that you did. And is the PCV valve hard to remove, I heard it was, where is it located again? Why not install a new one, it's like like 3 bucks!
First removing the airbox and intake piping give you a lot
more room to get in there, so do that. What I did was undo the
clamps on the hose then pull the filter out of that bracket that holds it in place. I held the filter in my left hand and held the
hose with my right, twist the filter one way and the hose another
while trying to pull them apart. , it takes some muscle but keep at it and it will come off. (it took me about 10 minutes and my hands hurt afterwards) I took the top hose off first and that makes the bottom easier to get at then just install the new one in reverse order:bottom hose, then top

As far as tools goes it's just basic stuff as SUDZ mentioned.
I used a 3/8 rachet with 12 inch extension and 5/8 plug socket for
the plugs.
Check plug gap. When you put the new ones in take the extension off the rachet and thread them in by hand until they are snug. Then SNUG them up with the rachet, DON'T over tighten. better yet use a torque wrench, but I don't know how many lbs. Other tools are just a couple screw drivers, various sockets, and needle nose pliars.
PCV valve I got out with the needle nose pliars, not too difficult. Figured if the dealer just cleaned them why not, I just
sprayed it with throttle body cleaner and it was good as new.
If the PCV rattles (when you shake it) then it's good, if not clean or replace.
Old Dec 13, 2002 | 05:09 AM
  #18  
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Re: Re: Re: Big difference

Originally posted by 975spEEd


First removing the airbox and intake piping give you a lot
more room to get in there, so do that. What I did was undo the
clamps on the hose then pull the filter out of that bracket that holds it in place. I held the filter in my left hand and held the
hose with my right, twist the filter one way and the hose another
while trying to pull them apart. , it takes some muscle but keep at it and it will come off. (it took me about 10 minutes and my hands hurt afterwards) I took the top hose off first and that makes the bottom easier to get at then just install the new one in reverse order:bottom hose, then top

As far as tools goes it's just basic stuff as SUDZ mentioned.
I used a 3/8 rachet with 12 inch extension and 5/8 plug socket for
the plugs.
Check plug gap. When you put the new ones in take the extension off the rachet and thread them in by hand until they are snug. Then SNUG them up with the rachet, DON'T over tighten. better yet use a torque wrench, but I don't know how many lbs. Other tools are just a couple screw drivers, various sockets, and needle nose pliars.
PCV valve I got out with the needle nose pliars, not too difficult. Figured if the dealer just cleaned them why not, I just
sprayed it with throttle body cleaner and it was good as new.
If the PCV rattles (when you shake it) then it's good, if not clean or replace.
Thank you I will try this when it stops raining daily in FL!

Also, I live in an apartment complex, so I dont have my own garage or anything. What to start changing my own oil too, I know you need that oil filter taker-offer, and what kind of jack you do you reccomend, to jack the car up? What do you need to take the valve cover off so you have access to the spark plugs?

Sorry for my ignorance.
Old Dec 13, 2002 | 09:00 AM
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Big difference

Originally posted by Silviagirl79


Thank you I will try this when it stops raining daily in FL!

Also, I live in an apartment complex, so I dont have my own garage or anything. What to start changing my own oil too, I know you need that oil filter taker-offer, and what kind of jack you do you reccomend, to jack the car up? What do you need to take the valve cover off so you have access to the spark plugs?

Sorry for my ignorance.
Oil changes are pretty simple. Just drive the car around so it's warmed up - the oil drains better when warm.
The oil filter wrench isn't always necessary. If you do get one, get the smaller ones as the diameter of the oil filter is only about 2.5 inches. Don't use the wrench to put the new filter on.
Jack the car up using a 2 ton trolley jack - use the lower balljoints as the lifting point) and lower back down on to jack stands on the notches just behind the front wheels under the front doors - one on each side.
The Spark Plug Cover for the front bank of spark plugs just needs an allen wrench - 4mm.
A philips screwdriver - magnetic if possible - will allow you to unscrew the coil packs.
You'll need a socket extension to actually get to the spark plugs - 3/8" drive probably 8" extension, and then obviously a spark plug socket. top tip - tape the spark plug socket to the extension using electrical tape so you don't end up losing the socket while trying to lift it out after screwing in the new plugs.
A Spark plug gap tool to check the gap is correct.
A 13mm or .5 inch deep socket to free up access to the #5 coil pack and spark plug. There's two bolts that hold in the obstructing item.
Old Dec 13, 2002 | 09:14 AM
  #20  
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Big difference

Originally posted by ORBRIT


Oil changes are pretty simple. Just drive the car around so it's warmed up - the oil drains better when warm.
The oil filter wrench isn't always necessary. If you do get one, get the smaller ones as the diameter of the oil filter is only about 2.5 inches. Don't use the wrench to put the new filter on.
Jack the car up using a 2 ton trolley jack - use the lower balljoints as the lifting point) and lower back down on to jack stands on the notches just behind the front wheels under the front doors - one on each side.
The Spark Plug Cover for the front bank of spark plugs just needs an allen wrench - 4mm.
A philips screwdriver - magnetic if possible - will allow you to unscrew the coil packs.
You'll need a socket extension to actually get to the spark plugs - 3/8" drive probably 8" extension, and then obviously a spark plug socket. top tip - tape the spark plug socket to the extension using electrical tape so you don't end up losing the socket while trying to lift it out after screwing in the new plugs.
A Spark plug gap tool to check the gap is correct.
A 13mm or .5 inch deep socket to free up access to the #5 coil pack and spark plug. There's two bolts that hold in the obstructing item.
Wow thnx for the detailed instructions. I love maxima.org members, they're a lot more helpful than 240sx.org members.
Old Dec 13, 2002 | 09:20 AM
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Big difference

Originally posted by Silviagirl79


Wow thnx for the detailed instructions. I love maxima.org members, they're a lot more helpful than 240sx.org members.
I'm just trying to do my part - kinda returning the favor to all those who've answered my questions.
I'd recommend getting a Haynes Manual jsut to find out more. I had never changed my own oil before two weeks ago. With a Haynes Manual and tips from the ORG I've also done Fuel filter, PCV Valve, MT Fluid, Spark Plugs.

Haynes on Amazon.com
Old Dec 13, 2002 | 09:45 AM
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Big difference

Originally posted by ORBRIT


I'm just trying to do my part - kinda returning the favor to all those who've answered my questions.
I'd recommend getting a Haynes Manual jsut to find out more. I had never changed my own oil before two weeks ago. With a Haynes Manual and tips from the ORG I've also done Fuel filter, PCV Valve, MT Fluid, Spark Plugs.

Haynes on Amazon.com

Ok I know you can save tons of money changing your own plugs, fuel filter. etc. But with all the hassle of jacking your car up is it really worth it to change your own oil? I pay about 14.00 normally.
Also, my car is hitting 100k, and I want to start using synthetic oil now, I could save a lot of money by doing it myself right? And how long can I go milegae wise with synthetic oil...5-6k?
Old Dec 13, 2002 | 09:50 AM
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Big difference

Originally posted by Silviagirl79



Ok I know you can save tons of money changing your own plugs, fuel filter. etc. But with all the hassle of jacking your car up is it really worth it to change your own oil? I pay about 14.00 normally.
Also, my car is hitting 100k, and I want to start using synthetic oil now, I could save a lot of money by doing it myself right? And how long can I go milegae wise with synthetic oil...5-6k?

See: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=100060
Old Dec 13, 2002 | 04:19 PM
  #24  
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Re: Re: Re: Big difference

Thanks! I've been looking right at it the whole time!
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