slow cranks in the early morning... what do you think??
01-15-2003, 09:32 AM
#41
Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 85
This is very strange...
I too had this problem last winter, and I believe a little bit during winter before that. Last winter it was the worst though, everyday it would happen. It would start then drop and stall, then eventually it didn't even start regularly, it would chug and do nothing.
But this story gets weird. This winter, it has barely happened. I haven't done anything to the car, but sure enough its pretty much gone. Now I have a dilema. I have hit 70k and I wanted to get a tune up, but now that the car is working fairly well, should I? And when I say tune up, I mean everything done.
-e
I too had this problem last winter, and I believe a little bit during winter before that. Last winter it was the worst though, everyday it would happen. It would start then drop and stall, then eventually it didn't even start regularly, it would chug and do nothing.
But this story gets weird. This winter, it has barely happened. I haven't done anything to the car, but sure enough its pretty much gone. Now I have a dilema. I have hit 70k and I wanted to get a tune up, but now that the car is working fairly well, should I? And when I say tune up, I mean everything done.
-e
01-15-2003, 09:45 AM
#42
Originally posted by Egression
This is very strange...
I too had this problem last winter, and I believe a little bit during winter before that. Last winter it was the worst though, everyday it would happen. It would start then drop and stall, then eventually it didn't even start regularly, it would chug and do nothing.
But this story gets weird. This winter, it has barely happened. I haven't done anything to the car, but sure enough its pretty much gone. Now I have a dilema. I have hit 70k and I wanted to get a tune up, but now that the car is working fairly well, should I? And when I say tune up, I mean everything done.
-e
This is very strange...
I too had this problem last winter, and I believe a little bit during winter before that. Last winter it was the worst though, everyday it would happen. It would start then drop and stall, then eventually it didn't even start regularly, it would chug and do nothing.
But this story gets weird. This winter, it has barely happened. I haven't done anything to the car, but sure enough its pretty much gone. Now I have a dilema. I have hit 70k and I wanted to get a tune up, but now that the car is working fairly well, should I? And when I say tune up, I mean everything done.
-e
01-15-2003, 09:55 AM
#43
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,809
Originally posted by 88MaximaSE
Also, check out ur engine coolant sensor connection. maybe ur car thinks its warm when it starts. I've read in a used car book that 4th gen maximas are bad at starting. stupid nissan.
Also, check out ur engine coolant sensor connection. maybe ur car thinks its warm when it starts. I've read in a used car book that 4th gen maximas are bad at starting. stupid nissan.
i may just change mine and see if that does it
Ant
01-15-2003, 04:30 PM
#44
I have a starting problem as well....
but it's a bit different.....
I crank it up.. it takes a bit longer than usual but it does crank up and start... RPMs hop up and then return back down slowly and it stalls out..
50% of the time, it does crank up on 1st try... first RPMs hop up, then they drop down to a millimeter from zero, NEARLY stalling out then bounce back up real high... occasionally it does this bounce 2 times.. wtf?
my battery seems to be in good shape, although i have no idea...
spark plugs, fuel filter, pcv valve, and other maintenance items are brand new...
what can cause this?
or is it normal?
btw,
my 98 max doesn't have this problem..
but it's a bit different.....
I crank it up.. it takes a bit longer than usual but it does crank up and start... RPMs hop up and then return back down slowly and it stalls out..
50% of the time, it does crank up on 1st try... first RPMs hop up, then they drop down to a millimeter from zero, NEARLY stalling out then bounce back up real high... occasionally it does this bounce 2 times.. wtf?
my battery seems to be in good shape, although i have no idea...
spark plugs, fuel filter, pcv valve, and other maintenance items are brand new...
what can cause this?
or is it normal?
btw,
my 98 max doesn't have this problem..
01-15-2003, 05:09 PM
#46
Yellow Top starts me right up
Dave, your points are probably valid with the Yellow Top, however as with any "trend" there will always be someone outside the curve, like myself :-).
My Yellow Top has successfully started my car on the first crank for two rather cold New York winters, temps down in the 20's - 30's (windchill 15-18).
I have stock grounds and have always run Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil.
My Yellow Top has successfully started my car on the first crank for two rather cold New York winters, temps down in the 20's - 30's (windchill 15-18).
I have stock grounds and have always run Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil.
Originally posted by Dave B
FYI-
12.60 = 100% charge
12.40 = 75% of the charge
<12.40 = a discharged battery
I could have sworn Yellow Top Optimas are not ideal for cold weather. Search the net and you'll see that the Red Top Optimas are what you need to run in cold weather climates. The guys in the south don't have problems with their Yellow Tops because it never dips below the 30s for extended periods of time. Don't you guys see a trend? Those with Yellow Tops experience consistent hard starting in cold weather. It's been in the low 30s and 20s and my car starts INSTANTLY with a new Die Hard battery.
Also, be VERY careful with that "hyper" ground crap. A few members have smoked major relays in their Maximas trying to install these setups.
Dave
FYI-
12.60 = 100% charge
12.40 = 75% of the charge
<12.40 = a discharged battery
I could have sworn Yellow Top Optimas are not ideal for cold weather. Search the net and you'll see that the Red Top Optimas are what you need to run in cold weather climates. The guys in the south don't have problems with their Yellow Tops because it never dips below the 30s for extended periods of time. Don't you guys see a trend? Those with Yellow Tops experience consistent hard starting in cold weather. It's been in the low 30s and 20s and my car starts INSTANTLY with a new Die Hard battery.
Also, be VERY careful with that "hyper" ground crap. A few members have smoked major relays in their Maximas trying to install these setups.
Dave
01-15-2003, 05:57 PM
#48
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 928
Originally posted by NYCe MaXiMa
I have a starting problem as well....
but it's a bit different.....
I crank it up.. it takes a bit longer than usual but it does crank up and start... RPMs hop up and then return back down slowly and it stalls out..
50% of the time, it does crank up on 1st try... first RPMs hop up, then they drop down to a millimeter from zero, NEARLY stalling out then bounce back up real high... occasionally it does this bounce 2 times.. wtf?
what can cause this?
or is it normal?
btw,
my 98 max doesn't have this problem..
I have a starting problem as well....
but it's a bit different.....
I crank it up.. it takes a bit longer than usual but it does crank up and start... RPMs hop up and then return back down slowly and it stalls out..
50% of the time, it does crank up on 1st try... first RPMs hop up, then they drop down to a millimeter from zero, NEARLY stalling out then bounce back up real high... occasionally it does this bounce 2 times.. wtf?
what can cause this?
or is it normal?
btw,
my 98 max doesn't have this problem..
01-15-2003, 06:42 PM
#49
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,809
**UPDATE**
as of today i did the following:
1) bought and replaced the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor ($35 at local Nissan) 20min(have lots of shop rags ready)thanks to Joes02max for the ride to Nissan
2) removed and dismantled IAC valve, cleaned out and reassembled
3) cleaned throttle body AGAIN and found almost ZERO dirt build up
4) re-polished my intake manifold, valve cover and misc polished parts to keep them bling'n, hehe!
Car does not dip down in RPMS after initial startup. Seems to stay at higher RPM when started cold, above 1,000 which to me is a good thing. Now im just gonna let the car sit for a few hours and try startin her up. Im keepin my fingers crossed that the IAC cleaning and the new ECTS did the trick.
say a prayer for me guys!
Ant
as of today i did the following:
1) bought and replaced the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor ($35 at local Nissan) 20min(have lots of shop rags ready)thanks to Joes02max for the ride to Nissan
2) removed and dismantled IAC valve, cleaned out and reassembled
3) cleaned throttle body AGAIN and found almost ZERO dirt build up
4) re-polished my intake manifold, valve cover and misc polished parts to keep them bling'n, hehe!
Car does not dip down in RPMS after initial startup. Seems to stay at higher RPM when started cold, above 1,000 which to me is a good thing. Now im just gonna let the car sit for a few hours and try startin her up. Im keepin my fingers crossed that the IAC cleaning and the new ECTS did the trick.
say a prayer for me guys!
Ant
01-15-2003, 07:36 PM
#50
Originally posted by karguy
No that is not normal! Have you checked for error codes? If not I would try that. A dirty IAC Valve (Idle Air Control Valve) can cause what you described. It is behind the throttle body and you clean it with the same stuff you clean the throttle body with. I was going to clean mine as part of maintenance but the dealership didn't have an IAC Valve gasket in stock. Now I plan on doing it in the spring.
No that is not normal! Have you checked for error codes? If not I would try that. A dirty IAC Valve (Idle Air Control Valve) can cause what you described. It is behind the throttle body and you clean it with the same stuff you clean the throttle body with. I was going to clean mine as part of maintenance but the dealership didn't have an IAC Valve gasket in stock. Now I plan on doing it in the spring.
thanks.
It is quite annoying
01-16-2003, 07:39 AM
#51
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,809
it is now Thursday morning 11:00am.
i just tried to start my car up this morning and guess what happened?? IT STALLED OUT AGAIN!!!!!!
im gonna look into the "high idle plunger" next. Also i plan on goin through every ground connection under my hood with a dremel and some grinding bits. I ve read that it yeilds positive results so well see.
Ant
i just tried to start my car up this morning and guess what happened?? IT STALLED OUT AGAIN!!!!!!
im gonna look into the "high idle plunger" next. Also i plan on goin through every ground connection under my hood with a dremel and some grinding bits. I ve read that it yeilds positive results so well see.
Ant
01-16-2003, 10:30 AM
#53
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 928
Originally posted by ny96max
it is now Thursday morning 11:00am.
i just tried to start my car up this morning and guess what happened?? IT STALLED OUT AGAIN!!!!!!
im gonna look into the "high idle plunger" next. Also i plan on goin through every ground connection under my hood with a dremel and some grinding bits. I ve read that it yeilds positive results so well see.
Ant
it is now Thursday morning 11:00am.
i just tried to start my car up this morning and guess what happened?? IT STALLED OUT AGAIN!!!!!!
im gonna look into the "high idle plunger" next. Also i plan on goin through every ground connection under my hood with a dremel and some grinding bits. I ve read that it yeilds positive results so well see.
Ant
01-16-2003, 07:13 PM
#54
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,809
Originally posted by karguy
When you have car problems you sure get the ones that will drive you to drink! Good luck!
When you have car problems you sure get the ones that will drive you to drink! Good luck!
Ant
01-16-2003, 07:37 PM
#55
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 928
Originally posted by ny96max
actually i spoke to a Nissan Tech today that i know locally, he was tellin me that the 95-97 max's usually have bad "idle plungers". He said to me change that part and ill be worry free
Ant
actually i spoke to a Nissan Tech today that i know locally, he was tellin me that the 95-97 max's usually have bad "idle plungers". He said to me change that part and ill be worry free
Ant
01-16-2003, 08:16 PM
#56
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Ever thought of just using another car's standard battery to see if you've got the same starting problems. As long as it's got 450 CCA, the VQ will start. Just an option instead of continuing to buy parts you might not need.
Dave
Dave
01-16-2003, 09:02 PM
#57
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,809
Originally posted by Dave B
Ever thought of just using another car's standard battery to see if you've got the same starting problems. As long as it's got 450 CCA, the VQ will start. Just an option instead of continuing to buy parts you might not need.
Dave
Ever thought of just using another car's standard battery to see if you've got the same starting problems. As long as it's got 450 CCA, the VQ will start. Just an option instead of continuing to buy parts you might not need.
Dave
like i posted earlier, my Yellow Top measured to be normal, and actually this morning read out 12.8 volts, so.... i guess that totally rules that out. Even Optima said themselves to me, "if it stays at 12.4 or higher your fine"
Ant
01-16-2003, 09:21 PM
#58
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally posted by ny96max
this will be the LAST part i buy to try and solve this problem. Afer that i will just deal with it
like i posted earlier, my Yellow Top measured to be normal, and actually this morning read out 12.8 volts, so.... i guess that totally rules that out. Even Optima said themselves to me, "if it stays at 12.4 or higher your fine"
Ant
this will be the LAST part i buy to try and solve this problem. Afer that i will just deal with it
like i posted earlier, my Yellow Top measured to be normal, and actually this morning read out 12.8 volts, so.... i guess that totally rules that out. Even Optima said themselves to me, "if it stays at 12.4 or higher your fine"
Ant
Dave
01-16-2003, 10:50 PM
#60
Originally posted by Dave B
Ever thought of just using another car's standard battery to see if you've got the same starting problems. As long as it's got 450 CCA, the VQ will start. Just an option instead of continuing to buy parts you might not need.
Dave
Ever thought of just using another car's standard battery to see if you've got the same starting problems. As long as it's got 450 CCA, the VQ will start. Just an option instead of continuing to buy parts you might not need.
Dave
01-23-2003, 03:03 PM
#61
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 57
I have hard starts too on my 1999 Maxima, 40K miles.
Replaced ECTS, battery, spark plugs, adjusted idle. Dropped Fuel injector cleaner 2 times in tank. No improvement. No codes on ECU.
Sometimes I also get a popping sound during start. A Nissan tech handed me 2 symptom diagnosis sheets.
Does this make sense? How many hours of work removing and reinstalling the tranny?
FC9002335
Symptom: Long crank before starting.
Description: Vehicle would crank for long time before starting and would occasionally sound as if the timing was too far advanced.
Root Cause: Poor engine ground between tranny and engine.
Service Procedure: Fabricate a 10 gauge wire jumper between 1 of upper bell housing bolts and 1 of lower engine oil pan bolts.
Source: Nissan NA
COMMENT: Apparently my car has this jumper installed already.
FC9002906
Symptom: Engine is hard to start sometimes.
Description: Engine is hard to start and a popping sound, like engine is out of time, can be heard.
Root Cause: Possible electrical noise caused by different electrical ground voltage levels in engine block, oil pan and tranmission castings.
Service Procedure: Check all tranny-to-engine mounting bolts and installed and torqued to specs. If problem remains, remove tranny, clean mounting faces on engine and tranny. Reassemble and torque to specs.
Source: Tim Brunet, Nissan NA
Replaced ECTS, battery, spark plugs, adjusted idle. Dropped Fuel injector cleaner 2 times in tank. No improvement. No codes on ECU.
Sometimes I also get a popping sound during start. A Nissan tech handed me 2 symptom diagnosis sheets.
Does this make sense? How many hours of work removing and reinstalling the tranny?
FC9002335
Symptom: Long crank before starting.
Description: Vehicle would crank for long time before starting and would occasionally sound as if the timing was too far advanced.
Root Cause: Poor engine ground between tranny and engine.
Service Procedure: Fabricate a 10 gauge wire jumper between 1 of upper bell housing bolts and 1 of lower engine oil pan bolts.
Source: Nissan NA
COMMENT: Apparently my car has this jumper installed already.
FC9002906
Symptom: Engine is hard to start sometimes.
Description: Engine is hard to start and a popping sound, like engine is out of time, can be heard.
Root Cause: Possible electrical noise caused by different electrical ground voltage levels in engine block, oil pan and tranmission castings.
Service Procedure: Check all tranny-to-engine mounting bolts and installed and torqued to specs. If problem remains, remove tranny, clean mounting faces on engine and tranny. Reassemble and torque to specs.
Source: Tim Brunet, Nissan NA
01-23-2003, 10:03 PM
#62
Originally posted by ny96max
actually i spoke to a Nissan Tech today that i know locally, he was tellin me that the 95-97 max's usually have bad "idle plungers". He said to me change that part and ill be worry free
Ant
actually i spoke to a Nissan Tech today that i know locally, he was tellin me that the 95-97 max's usually have bad "idle plungers". He said to me change that part and ill be worry free
Ant
01-23-2003, 10:43 PM
#63
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 384
Originally posted by ny96max
here goes:
- battery terminals are 100% clean, belive me they are chrome dipped and do not show one bit of corrosion on them nor does any other part of my motor...
Ant
here goes:
- battery terminals are 100% clean, belive me they are chrome dipped and do not show one bit of corrosion on them
nor does any other part of my motor... Ant
My 2¢
(_8*(l)
01-26-2003, 11:00 AM
#65
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,809
Originally posted by white95max
Your battery is cold in the morning and has less power output as it gets colder. Takes longer to generate the amperage that is needed to turn the engine over. Perfectly normal.
Your battery is cold in the morning and has less power output as it gets colder. Takes longer to generate the amperage that is needed to turn the engine over. Perfectly normal.
thanks,
Ant
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