Supermax95

iTrader: (2)

i am changiing my brakes right now and i ran into a problem. Ive installed braked many times before, but this is the forst time i ran onto this prob. I installed one sides pads, and the other sides caliper was just hanging. I told my friend to press the brake for a second in order to tighten up the pads and hold the rotor better and make sure everything was good. But the thing is that i forgot that the other sides caliper was just hanging and there was nothing stopping that sides caliper from stopping at a certain point. I thoug no biggie and i was just goin to use that depressor thing and press it back to where it was. It went to far and i cant get it to go flush so i can fit the new pads on!! Did i screw up my caliper?? Is there anyway to get it all the way back there so i can throw on the new pads or am i gonna have to get a new one? PLZ REPLY QUICK AS MY CAR IS ON STANDS AS WE SPEAK!!! THANKS

WizzaMax

iTrader: (9)

Let me try,

did you replace the master cylinder cap before you depressed the brake?

if so, did you open it up again before you tried to compress it?...judging from your analogy of the "depressor thing", you must be working on the front brakes...make certain you try to put the old pads on and compress with the "C-clamp" all the way. flush...maybe this can assist you...good luck!

Supermax95

iTrader: (2)

i cant even fit the old pads back on. lrt mr try to explain again. i depressed the brake pedal without having the front left brake pads on or anything between them. the caliper was just hanging when i pumped the brakes. the circular thingie inside the calipier went so far out, that i cant put even the old and worn out pads back on, and when i tried using the c clamp, it budged a little, but became hard as hell and i couldnt go anymore, but i still need about another inch or so untill it will lie flush with the caliper. i have a feeling that its the actual ait pressure causing me being unable to depress the circular thing inside the caliper anymore. i never touched the master cylinder or anyhting, so the cap had nothing to do with it. i was thinking of just opening up the line and try depressing it then and see if i could get it further back, but i dont want to go through the hasle of bleeding the system. thanks

darrick

just open the bleeding screw and push it back in then put all back together ,you should only have to bleed that side wont take 5 min.

StygianMax

iTrader: (8)

Is the cap on your brake fluid resevoir loosened?
I normally use a 4" c-clamp with a flat piece of metal to push against the edge of the front caliper's piston. I position the "foot" of the clamp so that it's in the middle of the piston. That way, the pushing pressure from the c-clamp is fair even across the piston.

You mentioned something about air in the brake line as a possiblity but (1) I'm wondering how air would have worked its way in and (2) air is a compressible so I hope that's not what's causing you problems **just my best guess**

Good luck!!

Supermax95

iTrader: (2)

i actually opened the bleeder and tried.....fluid shot out but still doesnt go all the way..it gets real hard and not even turnable with the C=clamp. Damn, i really dont wanna cough up some money for this, i wish i could just get the damn thing fixed.

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

Ditto: Make sure the cap is loosened on the brake-fluid reservoir when you're trying to compress the piston ("circular thingy") into the caliper.

C-clamps, if used improperly, can cause the piston to be pushed unevenly, causing the piston to skore the caliper walls, or worse, become jammed cockeyed in the piston bore.

If you've done either of these things, the mating surfaces of the piston & bore may have been compromised and even if you do get it back together, the caliper may leak on you. (This can lead to a brake failure - VERY DANGEROUS)

At this point, try to pick up a $8 brake piston compression tool at an auto parts place or Sears & try compressing again with the lid unscrewed from the brake fluid reservoir.

If the piston still won't compress, use a large pipe wrench & grabbing the outsides of the piston rim, gently try to rotate the piston in the bore while holding the caliper securely in place. (try for like 1/4" of movement).

The piston should rotate in the bore without too much effort - if it does not, you may have cockeyed the piston inside the bore, thus damaging it.

If you are able to get this piston compressed, and the brakes back together, keep a VERY close eye on that caliper for leaks!

Good luck.

Supermax95

iTrader: (2)

that sounds great....one thing....is there a certain distance the piston cannot go past without greating damage? Cause it really far out, id say about an inch and a half before it gets flush with the caliper. Also i did notice that it was becoming uneven with the c clamp. What would happen if i simple unscrewed the caliper from the brale line....wouldnt it be easier to compress then?? And if i did this, would i have to bleed all 4 brakes again, or just that one since its the front left and its closest to the master cylinder, i think. anoy more ideas guys??

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

The piston can be completely removed from the caliper & re-inserted without causing any damage. But. . .it has to be inserted straight and even. That seems to be the source of your problem.

You don't need to unbolt the brake line from the banjo fitting on the caliper. This will not make the piston easier to compress. Simply leaving the cap unscrewed on the fluid reservoir will achieve the same result. You're relieving hydraulic pressure on the system with either step - choose the easier one.

I don't think it's a fluid compression problem that's preventing you from moving the piston, based on what you describe. It's a binding problem (metal to metal).

Try the pipe wrench.

Supermax95

iTrader: (2)

im not sure if i understand the pipe wrench thig, can u plz explain it again? Thanks

Supermax95

iTrader: (2)

CaLSoNiC

So the pads are stuck together? If they are just put a flat head screw diver between them and wedge them apart. I do that on my dirt bike all the time... damn Brembos.

SamMan23

start the car. hit the brakes once, and it should release.

Supermax95

iTrader: (2)

no...the actual piston went too far out....i need to get it back in so i can put the new brakes on....the piston wont go back in..thats the prob...

SamMan23

did it fall out? if it didn't and you start the engine and pump the brakes, it should suck the piston back out. I don't know, you might need a new caliper then. don't drive without properly installed brakes.

Neptune97

This happens a lot when I'm working on old motorcycle disc brakes. The only way I've ever been able to get the piston back in is to use the pipe wrench method someone already mentioned previously...grab the outside of the piston with the pipe wrench (as close to the end of the piston as possible), and turn the piston while trying to push it back in. It helps if you can put a piece of spare rubber, or other protective material in between the piston and the wrench (try using a torn up bike tire tube for protection and grip). Its very important not to squeeze too hard.

If you have a good C-clamp, but a piece of STRONG metal across the end of the piston, and clamp and tighten this to the opposite end of the caliper...never clamp directly onto the piston.

rmb

Can you pump the brake pedal again.... carefully and slowly to get the piston to come out again? Then... taking great care and with the bleeder screw open reinsert the piston by hand? Do you feel "grittyness or grinding". One guess might be you had a lot of crap underneath the boot and now it's in the cylinder bore and binding/scratching the hell out of everything.

If it doesn't go back in and is still binding I'd get another caliper just to be safe.....

-RMB

Supermax95

iTrader: (2)

I got it fixed!!! I opened the master cylinder cap and bleeder valve...tok a while but got it back in. Now onr more question....i opened that brake line which is the front left one...do i have to bleed all 4 brakes again?? or can i just bleed that one...

SamMan23

I'm glad you got it fixed. I'd just bleed one, and if the brakes don't feel spongy, I'd call it a day.