Ok. I have an automatic 1998 Maxima SE with about 35500 miles on it right now. I bought it three years ago, and it was used with 26000 miles. The car is in as excellent of a condition (both mechanically and cosmetically) today, as when it was bought used. I always performed the general maintenance and took care of it right from the day that I bought it.

However about a month after I got it, it has been having this problem that I still can't figure out to this very day. What's more important is that it occurs very rarely, but it has happened enough times to bother me (once I didn’t make it home from school). Here it is in detail: (bare with me because I want to be as detailed as possible, and I think that it is a problem in two forms)


First when I start the engine, the RPM needle on the tachometer fluctuates between 500 and 3000 for a few seconds. At this time, I can hear the engine revving up and down in pitch. Then, the RPM needle stays below 500, and the car shakes, which I am guessing because it is not idling fast enough and is loosing power. After that, the Max usually dies and all the control lights illuminate in the same manner as when the ignition key is turned. (It takes anywhere from 5-20 seconds for all this to happen).

What's important to note is that I said that the engine usually dies. That's because when I tap on the gas pedal lightly before it dies, then everything is back to normal, and the engine idles like it is supposed to (On a cold 1500-rpm idle before it warms up and drops down)

I also said that I believe for this to be problem of two forms. That's because whenever I start the engine, an extremely slight vibration is felt from the engine before it warms up. Also, as soon as the engine is started, the RPM needle dives very slightly from 1500 to 1000 and then back to 1500 before it warms up. It only does this once. Also for some odd reason, the oil pressure light flickers for a few seconds and then goes off permanently. This second problem occurs everyday however, and I think that it can be related to the first one. Other than that, the car has no major problems that I can tell of right now. I keep my fingers crossed and hope.

Here is what I did.

Replaced the battery. Replaced the alternator. Adjusted the idle.
Added engine oil. (Thought that oil pressure light flickering was because of low pressure)

After all this, it still happens in both cold and hot weather.

My family mechanic once pointed to a fuel switch right by the manifold, which he said could be the problem. But when I got my brakes done, I left the car overnight at his place, and the phantom problem did not happen. Nor did the slight vibrations. Damn this f#$%^&* problem!!

One more thing and I am done blabbing:

When I got my free 100-point inspection done at Nissan this is what they said needs to be done:

Flush the tranny, clean the injectors (they said I have two dirty injectors), flush the power steering reservoir, and get a new fuel filter.

I hope this helps.

 

Clean the throttle body

Use chevron with techron to clean injectors (may need new ones)

Install a new fuel filter

Change PCV valve

Check plugs and coils

Readjust idle

Check ECU for ghost codes (codes that dont turn on the check engine light) like knock sensor

Use higher grade fuel

There are some other things, but those are the main things.

 

try putting ground wire from trans mounting bolt to motor.

 

LOL
did you look at the original post date???

 

lol...

 

I'd like to quote my favorite character on Everybody Loves Raymond.....

HOLY CRAP

 

When he said 35500 miles I said "WHAT?!" Then I looked on the date.

 

 

 

god damn that sig is sexy

 

I read that entire book of a post, word for word, without noticing the post date until I read the followups. Thanks timandleighsa, this one's for you:

 

i thought wow, a member since 02 and the OP only has 40 posts? LMFAO!

 

he wudda def had the lowest mileage 4th gen.

 

a maroon 97 se 5mt cane to my job with a little over 21k yesterday, i was like WTF

 

what miasma says is the best.but, step by step so you can save some money if one thing works before the rest.

 

Ok, I realize how old this thread is, but how the hell is that going to work? I've heard of ground wires to fix starter issues (still a ghetto fix, IMO) but never for an idle related problem.

 

It might be the cam angle sensor. It might just be a little dirty. My cam angle sensor stopped the car from starting at all sometimes and stall out on the highway so you should get that checked too.

 

first of all, FAIL on revive, and FAIL on still posting after.

BUT, since everyone else is posting, here's an important question nobody has asked.

OP: is the problem fixed yet?

 

lol it took a 5 year diff. for the man to get a 2nd answer lol

 

lol op probley doesnt even have a max anymore. probley said f this thing im trading it in for a civic