Someone help me out here. When I look at my engine it appears that the coils would be front and back. The parts are listed as left and right. ?!?!?!? Also, is one brand preferable to the other? Mitsubishi or Hanshin? The Mitsubishi is a little higher.

 

More information on coil packs. My poor car had a very hard weekend. Had my favorite mechanic pull the codes today.
1320, Generic ignition failure
0302, Knock sensor
0325, ignition failure cylinder 2.

Friendly Nissan mechanic changed the coil assembly in the middle on the side nearest the firewall. Is that the number 2 cylinder?

He turned off the check engine light and sent me on my way with the understanding that this may or may not cure it's ills. I'm betting that it won't. When I started up the car 4 hours later, it was missing until I put my foot into it. When I got to my destination and was doing stop and go driving, the service engine light flashed twice but did not stay on. On the way back to work, it ran fine all the way up to 95 or so when traffic would allow.

Thanks.

 

my car has been acting up badly lately whenever i really get on it. I know for a fact its one of my coils, i just dont know which one thats why im buying all 6 brand new from JR Nissan and not worrying about it

Ant

 

Hey Ant...Whats Going On....Well today i dropped my Max off at The Dealership, cause its been acting $hitty, and Come to find out, i Have 4 Burnt out Ignition Coils, But My Dealership Recommends i Replace ALL 6 Due to the Fact that thee a New Design, and there different then the old ones....!

***Also, Is $86.00 alot of Money for each one.... Knowing that i need 6...so All in All, its costing me over $500.00 for parts, plus Labor...is this Expensive?...Let Me Know

Chris From Connecticut!

 

change them out yourself!! they take minutes each to do. All you need is an 8mm socket and a magnet on hand. $86 per coil is crazy

e-mail JR-Nissan, hes got all 6 delivered quoted to me at $356!

Ant

 

They are different than the OEM ones. -But they work the same. You don't need to waste $ on coils to replace perfectly working ones.

Test each coil* individually for resistance using a digital multimeter.

Replace only the malfunctioning ones. They're easier to swap than spark plugs - this is definitely DIY work - even for the novice. I had one coil go bad & it tested out with VERY high resistance. Paid $75 for a replacement Hanshin unit & my car runs fine now. Why spend $500+?????

If you had one bad fuel injector, would you replace all 6? If you're like me, you don't like burning $.


*If the resistance is high, the coil is bad; if it is low, the coil is functioning correctly.

 

can you explain to me how to exactly test these?? Im very familiar with a DMM (digital multi meter) and id really like to save a few bucks and change out the ones that are shot.

thanks,

Ant

 

Basically, you're just trying to test for resistance on a simple circuit by completing that circuit using your DMM and the (+) & (-) terminals on the coil base to determine if the coil is capable of delivering current to the spark-plug.


Things you'll need: DMM & (optional) 2 alligator-clip (I'll refer to as "A.C.") test wires. (For + & -)

1) The car is not running for this diagnosis.

2) Remove the cosmetic plastic cover from the valve-cover by loosening the allen bolts & set it aside. You'll see the coils & wiring harnesses, underneath.

3) You'll need to set your DMM to the ohms range and if it is not an auto-ranging unit, select the 2000 range. (The range you need to select may vary, based upon how much resistance a malfunctioning coil is exhibiting, so if you do not have an auto-ranging DMM, you'll need to sweep the entire range of settings, pausing to observe the reading at each)

4) With each coil's wiring harnesses unplugged, you should be able to see three male terminal connections inside the coil plug base.

5) Clip one A.C. to the bottom terminal inside the coil base, then clip the other end of that wire to the (-) lead from your DMM.

6) Clip the second test wire's A.C. to the terminal immediately above the first one you clipped onto, then clip the other end of that wire to the (+) lead from your DMM. (One of these leads is the power lead, the other is the ground).

7) Look at your DMM display - if the coil is working, the resistance should be very low: maybe .01-.05 If however, the resistance is high, (it should be very high, if coil is bad)* the coil has an internal failure and needs to be replaced.

Repeat test for each coil.

*For example: my BAD coil registered 1,489 ohms on the 2000 range, which translates to an actual reading of 1,489,000 ohms resistance. -A definite sign that very little current was able to pass through that coil.

Hope this helps!



PS: See Haynes or FSM for further info. (or ask me: I'm not opposed! -although I'm no FSM.)

 

"It's on the contrary",

Haynes says...

 

Chilton is crap. Do not use specifications from there (for coils at least.)They are good for third generation engines only; and Chilton doesn't even mention it.

 

I just replaced one coil last night. Mine #2 coil is dead. In fact when I used digital multimeter to test it. There is no difference between the bad one and the good one. I swapped #2 with #6 and got the ECU code changed from 0607 to 0603. In this way, I am pretty sure which one I need to replace.

I guess if the resistance of the coil body reduced. It just weaken the spark which still can cause the error code. So far, I don't find any reason to replace all 6 coils since it is so easy to replace.

You need 8 mm socket to help you remove the coil. Philip screw driver is not good for this work.

I ordered one from:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...gnition-ve30de

$58 + S&H($7.5)

Price is good. It took them 7 days for UPS to deliever to my house. the left one #2 #4 #6 located in the front, #1,#3,#5(right) coil are those 3 located closer to firewall.

I got a lot help from this web site. Hopefully this post is helpful.

 

Isn't the Right side bank, the one at the Front of the engine, and the Left side the one by the firewall?



QUOTE]Originally posted by slao8880
I just replaced one coil last night. Mine #2 coil is dead. In fact when I used digital multimeter to test it. There is no difference between the bad one and the good one. I swapped #2 with #6 and got the ECU code changed from 0607 to 0603. In this way, I am pretty sure which one I need to replace.

I guess if the resistance of the coil body reduced. It just weaken the spark which still can cause the error code. So far, I don't find any reason to replace all 6 coils since it is so easy to replace.

You need 8 mm socket to help you remove the coil. Philip screw driver is not good for this work.

I ordered one from:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...gnition-ve30de

$58 + S&H($7.5)

Price is good. It took them 7 days for UPS to deliever to my house. the left one #2 #4 #6 located in the front, #1,#3,#5(right) coil are those 3 located closer to firewall.

I got a lot help from this web site. Hopefully this post is helpful. [/QUOTE]

 

Yes nelaco the Right side is the front of the car and the left is next to the firewall.

Just an update. One individual picked up that the Mechanic changed the number 3 coil instead of the number 2 coil. When I pointed it out to him he turned bright red. So at this point I have a bad #2 coil and a right side coil installed on the left side.

Will running a right side coil on the left side damage anything?

 

That's what I thought, thank you for clarifing. Running a right coil on the left side is not a problem because they all have the same resistance, but the shape is different so I don't think it would fit between the intake manifold. These coils need to be screwed in, otherwise they can become loose and cause a misfire. Is it just seating on top of spark plug #3?

Nelson

 

The fit was just fine. Slipped right into place, bolted up, and the electrical connection made. The shaft was thiner. I'm guessing that the left side coils have more insulation.

Anyway, more tomorrow after the swap is made. I'd do it myself, but I have to work until long after dark and he has a heated garage.

 

What I learnt:

Right - near firewall
Left- near front of the car

I may be wrong. When I ordered, I talk to the salesman and confirmed #2 is "Left".

Left/Right are NOT exchangable. They are different size and shape. When you place you order, confirm it with the sales man.

The link I posted before was wrong, here is the right link:

http://www.nissan-auto-parts-dealer.com

What I ordered was

"Electrical, Ignition System, Ignition Coil, Hanshin(L) "

It is called "Left"

$55.23 + $7.50(S&H)

It fits #2/#4/#6 which located in the front of the car.

firewall
-----------
1 3 5
2 4 6
===========
/\ /\
car front

 

What I learnt:

Right - near firewall
Left- near front of the car

I may be wrong. When I ordered, I talked to the salesman and confirmed #2 is the "Left".

Left/Right coils are NOT exchangable. They are in different size and shape. When you place you order, confirm it with the sales man.

The link I posted before was wrong, here is the right link:

http://www.nissan-auto-parts-dealer.com

What I ordered was

"Electrical, Ignition System, Ignition Coil, Hanshin(L) "

It is called "Left"

$55.23 + $7.50(S&H)

It fits #2/#4/#6 which located in the front of the car.

firewall
-----------
1 3 5
2 4 6
===========
/\ /\
car front

 

The fit was just fine. Slipped right into place, bolted up, and the electrical connection made. The shaft was thiner. I'm guessing that the left side coils have more insulation.

Anyway, more tomorrow after the swap is made. I'd do it myself, but I have to work until long after dark and he has a heated garage.

 

I know. Really use either Haynes or FSM. I mentioned the use of the manuals as much for learning the fundamentals of electrical troubleshooting, as anything else. Armed with that knowledge and the wiring diagrams, you can tackle almost any electrical problem.

 

i got extra coils if anyone needs them

 

well i just changed out the last two #3 and #5 this afternoon. Cost me $130 for two Hanshin coils at my Nissan dealer. The car defitly idles soother and shows no signs of hesitation anymore when i get on it. So one problem down and two to go

Ant

 

Why 2? If you replaced the coils, you should solve 2 problems - 0201 code (ignition circuit fault) and also your misfires. Worked for me!

 

yer welcome!

FLO_BOY

 

Now I'm cornfused. I looked up the part number for the coil that was put into the number 3 slot. It came up "Right side". When my mechanic put in the number 2 coil, it was obviously very different in design. It came up "Left side". The two are *not* interchangeable.

 

Looks like we should just go by "firewall" or "front" side. Only safe way.

 

 

Now I have it. Left=Front Right=Rear. I've got it.

 

If the CEL flashed while you were driving, it should've stored the codes. Check them again yourself and see if you have another bad coil or if something else is wrong.

 

Man was I late!!! Should have refreshed before I posted. Seems like you got it together charleym3. Its amazing what you can accomplish if you ask the right questions.