I am having problems with my clutch hydralics. The system becomes high pressurized and does not let out the pressure. This causes the clutch to get stuck and then the car slips. Also we have observed that the fluid does not go back into the resevoir when the clutch pedal is let out. Any ideas? Also we have noticed that when letting the upper bleeder out the pressure goes out and the car works properly for a while and then the problem comes back.

 

It sounds like air is getting into the system between the master and slave cylinder. Is that hose leaking at all and will the pedal return to the normal position unaided?

 

How many miles are on your Maxima? It seems that either the boot on the slave cylinder, or something dealing with the master cylinder, is letting air into the lines......

 

Well the system has been bled 5 times and nothing has changed. Also it is a newly convert 5speed and the master and slave cylinders are brand new from nissan. Any thoughts there? Also the problem is not when the car is first running but after it has run for a while.

 

Oh forgot, the pedal does return the same even when the clutch wont let out. And as far as we know, no leaks.

 

Any smart 5speed owners out there right now?

 

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This sounds similar to what Harold experienced after he did his tranny conversion. His problem was that the clutch pedal adjusting rod that goes from the pedal to the master cylinder was not adjusted properly. You might want to pm him about this.

 

I got more info about the car. It might be a bad clutch master cylinder because it is not letting the fluid back up in the resevoir after the car has warmed up. The connection between the cylinder and the pedal is all the way up so that it should be releasing but it still wont. Is it possible to have a bad cylinder if it is new from Nissan?

 

You do not have a bad cylinder.

Your clutch pedal is not adjusted properly. Your pedal has to have some freeplay, around 1/4 to 1/2 an inch (I don't remember the exact spec, i think its closer to 1/2 an inch, might actually be 9/16" if memory serves right).

I had the same problem after I converted my car, and again after I converted meccanbole's car. What you have to do is twist that rod that goes into the master cylinder that connects the pedal to the master cylinder (its really a part of the master cylinder with a fork on the other end) to get some freeplay.

Twist the rod one way or the other until your clutch has freeplay (like its limp, or you could wobble it with very little resistance) (there is a little screw behind the fork that you have to loosen first). On my car, I had to screw the rod until it stuck out 3/8ths to 1/2 (at most) of an inch into that fork.

I used to think my master cylinder was bad to, but it wasn't. I did release the pressure with the top bleeder valve for a while. I bet you that your pedal probably gets very stiff after driving for a while, starts grabbing at first with a slight release of the clutch, then with more, and eventually you have to release it completely to grab, and afterwards it just slips.

 

You have to bleed the slave cylinder side also. There's a slave cylinder nipple next to the clutch hose where it's mounted on the tranny.

 

I think i have it fixed now. We actually had to custom do the job with the master cylinder because it couldnt be adjusted anymore and it was still having problems. We will see after some more testing tommorow.

 

Thats odd. Did you make a spacer on the firewall where the cylinder goes? I didn't make one on either car that I converted, and my cylinders adjusted just fine, with lots of room for improvement. Honestly, I find it odd that you couldn't adjust it properly, perhaps you didn't do it right? Anyway, keep fiddling with it. The only thing that that spacer would cause would be for the cylinder to be pulled back further. If you have no spacer, all you have to do is adjust the rod to make up for that missing spacer. If its giving you problems adjusting, open the top valve and let some pressure out.

 

It is finally fixed, but required taking apart the master cylinder and actually cutting the rod to shorten it. But now it is all good so im happy. Thanks for the info.

 

It is finally fixed, but required taking apart the master cylinder and actually cutting the rod to shorten it. But now it is all good so im happy. Thanks for the info.