MaxEffect414

iTrader: (2)

Ok, i was told that i could do an engine flush using 4QT cheap oil and 1 QT tranny fluid.....

I was tired of doing oil changes every 4 to 6 hundred miles and tired of seeing my oil black and after trying all those engine flush treatments, i was all out of luck.

So i heard about this and i did it by draining out all of my oil and then putting the 4QT oil and 1QT tranny fluid and let it run in the engine for about 15 mins and then let it out and put in your nice expensive oil and new filter, i will include a write up to anyone who wants it.

My results have been spectacular, I now after running my engine for almost 1, 300 miles and my oil is still looking as good as i put it in the first time...

My power has increased so much also, it's like i just bought the car brand new, i'm proud to say there has been no faults with my engine like gaskets or anything and i will change my oil once again at 1, 650 and then after that every 1900 miles.

I can say that i'm so glad i did this, my car warms up quicker and runs smoother and before i could not go over 127 now i hit 135 and it's perfect.

So if anyone wants to do this i will give any assistance needed, Just let me know.....

Trance

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

I've heard good things about the tranny fluid thing, too. But, how can you be sure that you got all the tranny fluid out? The fact is, when you do an oil change, you never get absolutely all of the old oil out.

DW

nadir_s

wow, looks like i've learned something new. I've never heard about the extra quart of tranny oil. I know this isn't much of a brainer, but if you could do a quick write-up, i'd like to attempt this and i think i'd be more confident w/ a step by step outline. Anywho, thanks for postin this.

MaxEffect414

iTrader: (2)

um it doesn't mattat if you get all the tranny fluid out and when that little tiny bit of fluid mixes with the new oil, the ratio of oil to tranny fluid is extreemly minimal.

I will include a write up nadir give me untill tomorrow morning and it's very simple and cost about 30 bucks max.

the best improvment i got from doing this is my gas miliage, i get around 260-270 a tank now and before i got about 220 and sometimes 230.

i check my miliage at 3/4 after putting in BP 93Octane and it says 79 then i check it again at 1/2 and it says 156 and then i check it again at 1/4 and it says 201 and at empty it says 256 a little more and a little less at times but still much better than 220.

That was city now highway i used to get about 450 now i get about 501 and that's doing between 65 and 85 mph.

It's awsome, You will notice a difference imiedietly.

Trance

nadir_s

whoa! highway miles means alot for me, I pushed 404 miles last week. I would do anythin to get as far as 500

MaxEffect414

iTrader: (2)

If your pushing 404 now i would say you will get about 470 max after this, a little more or a little less depending on how you drive.

Kanaka

iTrader: (4)

What kind of tranny fluid are you flushing with? ATF or MT-90?

MaxEffect414

iTrader: (2)

I used nissan Matic-D tranny fluid.

s2cmpugh

are you sure that its ok to put tranny fluid in the crankcase??

i thought that stuff might damage seals and what not??



thanks
Cris

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

ATF is extremely detergent and will clean very well. Do NOT use a gear oil like MT-90 or similar in the crankcase. Also, running ATF in the engine can create deposits of it's own, but in a severely sludged engine (as it seems this particular one was) I guess it can't hurt. It's not something I'd recommend in general and tend to shy away from flushes in general now. Too much cleaning too fast is not really a good thing.

hokiemax

iTrader: (2)

What the heck?? this is something I never heard of !!

I get 300 all city and about 450 all highway, and I have 130k on the engine. I'm guessing I dont have any significant amount of sludge on the engine since my mileage seems to be in line. Either ways, I dont have the ***** to try this.

s2cmpugh

good motto, if aint broke dont fix it

bgod

doesn't sound like a bad idea along with a tb cleaning on a car closer to 100k.

what oil filter is used while putting the car through the 15 minute idle time. is the old filter left in or a new filter, then a new filter again with the good oil.

thanks.

MaxEffect414

iTrader: (2)

I will be posting an offical write up a little later today or so but i left in the same old filter to do the 15min idle and put in a new one for the new oil and to the other posts.....

I am a 99 SE-L and i have about 119,000 miles on her and some engines are worse than others depending on how well you have kept the car in shape, If your like me and bought a used car and don't know how well the other person kept the car in shape then you might want to do this.

and again the tranny fluid in the crankcase with 15 mins of idling isn't going to harm your engine and when you drain out the mixture and saw what i saw you will be glad you have down this, i saw the grosses looking oil and sludge and color that i have ever seen.

The little that's left in the engine after the drain is extreemly minimal and when the new oil gets put in the mixture of tranny fluid to oil is by far reduced significantly cause if you do the math.....
1qt tranny fluid to 3 1/2 to 4qt oil then a drain and then 4 1/2qt new oil, that single qt of tranny fluid is by far dropped to almost nothing.

I used Nissan approved matic-d fluid because of that fact that's it's a detergent and will clean and the base oils in that fluid are not as harmful to the engine as other tranny fluids...

Write-up comming soon.....

Trance

nadir_s

Hmm you say 4 quarts of cheap oil and 1 quart of tranny oil... total of 5 quarts goin into the engine. Is that ok? I mean I have always dumped 4 bottles of oil everytime i change it.

MaxEffect414

iTrader: (2)

Write up for Engine flush....

(Ok now for the disclaimer)
DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK AND ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANYTHING THAT MAY HAPPEN.....

Ok things you will need to buy....

4QT motor oil, cheapest you can find, i got mine for 1.07 a QT.

1Qt Tranny fluid from nissan, Matic-D

1 Oil Bucket(to let the oil drain into)

1 Oil Filter Remover (try to get the black steel cap and not the belt strap thing)

1 Oil Filter from Nissan

5QT motor oil, Try to get something great like Valvoline High miles or Valvoline Synthetic Blend or anything that's Valvoline.
(I use Valvoline cause it's the best oil you can buy in my opinion, it's tested in Europe and i just wouldn't use anything else in my car.)


Ok now i'm assuming you know how to do an oil change but for those that don't.....

1) Jack up the car and take off the passenger wheel (REMEMBER TO APPLY HAND BRAKE) and also where ever you take off the wheels of the car place them under the side where the jack is attached, I don't care about your hot rims, your life is much more valuable. So if you take off both wheels they should be under the car next to the jack stands or whatever your using. Safety first.

2) Take off the black plastic covers that are blocking the filter. They are removed by screws and while your there check your belts for any signs of cracks.

3) Now place the oil pan directly under the nut that you will remove to let the oil drain out.

4) Now i can't remember the size off hand but i think it's either a 10 or 14 MM wrench and take off the nut.(once you loosen the nut just do it by hand and hold it in untill the last turn and pull it off quick to minimize mess.

5) Let oil drain for a while untill only a tiny bit of oil is dripping out every 5 seconds or so, i say this should be about 20-25mins.

6) Place the nut back on and don't over tighten, just a nice hard pull on the wrench should be sufficient.

7) Now begin putting the 4qt cheap oil and 1qt tranny fluid.

8) Once it's in start up the car and let idle for 12 mins and shut it off, let engine settle for about 2 mins and start it back up and let it idle for 3-4mins for a total of 15-16 mins, then shut the car off.

9) Once this is finished get back your trusty oil pan and place it back under the nut and as before, open and let drain for 30mins and check out that nasty dirty oil.

10) Take off the oil filter with the oil filter remover and let that drain for about for about 5-10 mins.

11) Now after all your draining is done and filter is off wipe down everything with a cotton cloth and get out your new filter.

12) Take the new filter and wipe around the rubber part of the filter with the new good oil that you have, just dip your finger in the bottle and use your finger to wipe around the rubber washer in the filter and you can also put a slight coating in the holes in the oil filter.

13) Attach oil filter to car and tighten with oil cap and wrench, don't over tighten but make sure it's tight and that you can't get if off by hand.

14) Put back oil nut and tighten as you did before and make it a little tighter than you did the first time.

15) Now clean the oil cap area and make sure it's nice and clean and also clean dipstick.

16) Now put your nice new oil in and put about 4 1/2qt in and close cap and put in dipstick and start up your max.

17) Let her idle for a while about maybe 10-20mins and check the oil filter and drain plug for any signs of leakage and check it while the car is running and if none is present then shut her off and put back all the plastic covers and make sure everything is set and ok.

18) Aahhh almost finished, now put back on your wheels and tighten accordingly.

19) Take your dipstick out and clean it off (it's ok if the oil is like all over the dipstick) and put it back in and pull it out and clean off again and put it back in once more and check the level and if it's between the crosshatched area it's good; If not add a little more and get it to a little above the middle of the crosshatched area.

20) Your now finished, check your oil again after driving about 20-30 miles and make sure it's cool and do another oil change after 1,500 or 1,600 miles and then every 1,800 miles after that, Oil is the life of your car so make sure you do those changes.

Ok that's my write up, I hope you guy's dont have difficulty doing anything, if you do you can IM me or send me a PM or E-mail anytime, tranceeffect414@aol.com.

You will now notice a big difference with your car, it's ok, that's called horsepower and torque and no your gas needle isn't broken it's just your not burning fuel like you used to, your saving now......Enjoy......

nadir_s

Wouldn't it be better if instead of idling, you take it out for a short spin... ? I mean that way the oil doesn't pool at the bottom (or whatever the reason why you shoudn't let your car idle for a warm up in the morning)


Also, I am curious to know if this method will work on other cars w/ high mileage... I only ask because I'm worried (even w/ my max) that somehow i'll start getting oil leaks. Alright, cool write up, thanks!

MaxEffect414

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't take it out for a spin and i was worried like crazy when i was doing it but it turned out fine.

It will work on any car....

Trance

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

I'm wondering; does it have to be 5 quarts? Why not 3 qts oil and 1 qt tranny fluid?

DW

Jon91SE

I have had no complaints since i started doing it. I dont do it every oil change but every so often. When I flush I like to give it some healthy redline revs, and I dont tend to let it sit at idle as much when im flushing. The whole process is no more then 10 min and is extremely easy to do.

My brother would go as far as leave some tranny fluid in his oil on his old Jetta. He started at about 150,000 miles, and the car was well over 200,000 before it was sold. Good stuff.

SunMax

iTrader: (2)

Nice write up! Thanks for the information.

Are you suggesting we change oil every 1,800 miles? I guess you are more aggressive than the oil manufacturers.

BTW, couple questions:

1. Does it has to be Nissan ATF? Or any ATF will do?

2. Does it has to be ATF? How about some other engine flush products like Pennzoil engine flush?

MaxEffect414

iTrader: (2)

I used Nissan ATF because i had a qt left from my tranny gasket change.

I say put 5qts because it's all about the ratio of oil to tranny fluid, There's enough that the tranny fluid could do it's job with-out hurting your engine and you should do this like every 3 years or so.

And yes i say every 1800 miles becasue it's supossed to be every 2,000 miles but that's been a standard since like forever and with these new high-tech maxs on the line i can say this.

I love my car, i love my engine, so why not clean her out every 1800.
I drive her like i drive my girl, as hard as hell

Anyway like i said before, i have used those engine flush products and they just haven't worked as well as this and some haven't worked at all..

I'm a 99 SE-L with about almost 110,000 miles and i did this and it's helped me alot.

I have also used this in my friends VW GTI and he's getting like 36 MPG on highway and he's just as fast as i am with a 2.0 untill those 2 other cylinders that he doesn't have kick in for me lol

BTW....Nice post JON91SE

Trance

nick778

I'd have to take issue with Valvoline being the best dino and/or synthetic oil. There are better dino oils (i.e., castrol gtx and penzoil) and much better synthetic oils like Mobil 1, Amsoil or Redline. Valvoline isn't even a 'true' Group IV or Group V synthetic and the additive packages are much better in the oils above.
European blends are a whole different story for all oil manufacturers and the specs are usually different (and better to meet European HTHS shear specs) than oil in the USA.
To each their own but if you actually took a look at tests that depict actual base oil make-up and additive packages and used oil wear, TBN and Viscosity results, I think you might not think Valvoline was the oil you think it is.
Plus there are better things to clean your engine with than mixing ATF with its own array of additives (i.e., Auto-Rx and Neuta 131).

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

I definitely agree about the Valvoline comment. I'm glad Ken said it first because I probably appear biased.

You mentioned you drive the car hard as hell. I would think you would want the best oil in that case, not an okay one that is changed very frequently. The three oils on my list would be Amsoil, Mobil 1 and Redline.

MaxEffect414

iTrader: (2)

ok people now the oil issue...

I don't care what has been dynoed or tested, all oil in the US acts differently, Those tests are run under engines that are clean and in well fit shape and they are continuously run, they don't shut them off untill they break down and as we all know, our cars get shut off every day.

Our engines on the other hand are quite different, some of us race and other don't, some of us drive hard and other don't.

I will not spend an extra 1 a qt to get the BEST oil that will get dirty the same time as all the other oils, i drive my car hard but no matter how hard you drive your car, ALL OIL WILL ACT THE SAME and as long as it has pasted the standards from the US then it will be good.

The problem is you people think by buying the most expensive thing it will out perform everything else and that fact is it won't....

So you go ahead and pay 50 bucks for your expensive oil and change it every 2000 miles and while your pocket gets empty mine stays full.

Oh and another thing, for all your people using that Mobile 1 crap, IT HAS ALREADY BEEN PROVEN THAT MOBILE ONE HAS BEEN THE CAUSE FOR SOME NASCAR ENGINE BREAK DOWNS.....Start reading some car magazines people.....

Trance

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

This is all I'm going to say on this issue in this thread.

Read the analysis spreadsheet people.... http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=100060

There are cars that are driven slowly, driven fast, driven on short trips, driven on the highway and yes, even raced. There are cars run on conventional, there are cars run on synthetic, there are cars run on the blends. There are cars with short intervals that look bad, and cars with long intervals that look good. In short (ok long) those are real world results submitted by real world people. Not lab tests run under perfect conditions.

Mobil 1 caused engine failures. Engines that produce that much power and run at full throttle are real reliable