For months my car has been starting really poorly, not like a battery or starter bad, but like a fuel bad. Earlier this week I cleaned my TB, and I thought my problem was going away. Now my car just won't start at all. It's in the garage at my work, and I've been trying everything to get it to start. It cranks really well, but just won't turn over. I checked the fuel pump, and I can hear it turn on. ANy suggestions? I'm probably just going to have to get it towed to a shop.
-Elia

 

One of your crank position sensors has probably failed. Check the ECU for codes. Sometimes, if they fail after the car is turned off, you wount get the code, which makes it even harder to fix.

A few have reported sucessfully fixing them by taking them off (both of them) cleaning the metalic dust that's attracted to the pickups and putting them back in. You might want to give that a try.

One is located under the lower pully, the other is on the bell housing and looks at the flywheel.

Good luck.

 

Are these hard to get to? It's wicked cold out here, it's definitely going to suck being outside. Also, will I be needing any special tools, or should this be pretty simple? I'm having the car towed to my house.. I called the dealer and two local shops and I can literally see the dollar signs in their eyes.
-Elia

 

Right after I cleaned my TB, I pulled the CEL code and reset it. Low and behold, the code was 0407 - crankshaft position sensor (ref). Thanks a lot for the help, I'll probably post again with results/questions.

-Elia

 

That sensor is down under the lower pully. You can access it easily from the right front wheel. Turn the steering completely to the right, then take off the splash shield. The sensor is right there. I think just a 10mm socket is all you need to pop it off.

 

Well, now it turned out to be also the camshaft position sensor! I can't believe how crazy all of this is. I also think in the process I flooded my plugs, because it won't start, but it smells like gas like crazy. At least that's a start, I now know that gas is going somewhere. Also, no codes show up. I'm going to try to start it tomorrow, and if all goes well, it'll be close to $500 saved over what the dealer wanted to charge me. Thanks a lot, njmaxseltd
-Elia

 

4 long flashes followed by 7 short flashes?

If it's 7 long flashes followed by 4 short flashes, it's 0704. And that is EVAP system failure. And you smell gas if the EVAP canister purge valve is stuck in open position.

For me, I also have 0407 and I'll be trying the cleaning the crankshaft sensor...I have faith, yet, in Nissan.

 

i tried cleaning it, but it didn't do anything. I ended up buying a new one, $88.
-Elia

 

Are you up and running? What was the final analysis?

 

I have the same problem. Cleaned Crank sensor (POS) and TB - no improvement.

Now trying to take off the splash shield to get to Crank sensor (REF). There are 2-3 parts to the shield. Assuming I need to take the one behind the tire. How the hell do I remove the fasteners without breaking them (not the ones with philps screw heads)?

Also, is it possible to reach CPS POS without lifting the car? I had a mechanic clean it for me - he obviously had a lift. Now I want to test the resistances etc on it.

 

I just took a few of the screws out and bend the splash guard back almost 180 degrees to get it out of the way. It's difficult to get to the pos, if you put one side up on jackstands, then it'll make it easier.
-E

 

Lushka:

Finally, what was the problem with your car?

Just finished taking out the REF sensor, cleaned and put it back. It wasn't very dirty. Resistance was 573 ohms - in range per Haynes. Although I did not see any metalic sensor point like the one on POS.

Funny thing I noticed: The car started (with same symptoms) WITHOUT connecting the harness to the sensor. Doesn't that mean that there is a problem in the harness? I will check harness continuity tomorrow (any tips?) but just thought I'd bounce this concern off the forum.

My car is not showing any codes.