Ignition Coil Check
#1
Ignition Coil Check
Hey guys this my first post.
I have a '95 SE with 136K miles. My car was running terrible. The car was idling erratically, and there was no acceleration at all. One of the previous posts suggested that a TB cleaning would fix the idle problem. I had the dealer clean the TB, injecters and replace the fuel filter. (All for $140!) The car runs much better but still don't get the acceleration I want. So I changed the spark plugs. I used to have the Champion Autolite plugs and heard they were no good. So I put the NGK-5 in, and wow. The car accelerates again.
Now the point to my question. While I was changing out the spark plugs, I decided to check the ignition coils according to the Chilton Manual. I measured 1500 Ohms between terminals 1 & 2, and a open circuit between terminals 1 & 3 and terminals 2 & 3. Terminal 1 being the terminal on the left when the coil is standing straight up.
Is this the proper procedure? If it is, then I am assuming I have six bad ignition coils.
The CEL hasn't come on, and I used the Chilton method to get the ECU codes, and the light never flashed. Does that mean there no codes in the ECU?
Thanks everyone for your help, and the great advice on this site.
Little95Max
I have a '95 SE with 136K miles. My car was running terrible. The car was idling erratically, and there was no acceleration at all. One of the previous posts suggested that a TB cleaning would fix the idle problem. I had the dealer clean the TB, injecters and replace the fuel filter. (All for $140!) The car runs much better but still don't get the acceleration I want. So I changed the spark plugs. I used to have the Champion Autolite plugs and heard they were no good. So I put the NGK-5 in, and wow. The car accelerates again.
Now the point to my question. While I was changing out the spark plugs, I decided to check the ignition coils according to the Chilton Manual. I measured 1500 Ohms between terminals 1 & 2, and a open circuit between terminals 1 & 3 and terminals 2 & 3. Terminal 1 being the terminal on the left when the coil is standing straight up.
Is this the proper procedure? If it is, then I am assuming I have six bad ignition coils.
The CEL hasn't come on, and I used the Chilton method to get the ECU codes, and the light never flashed. Does that mean there no codes in the ECU?
Thanks everyone for your help, and the great advice on this site.
Little95Max
#2
Since I was pretty convinced that I had bad ignition coils, I decided to order one coil from http://www.nissan-auto-parts-dealer.com/ and compare the resistance measurements to the coils I already have.
The resistance measurements were about the same. I measured 1700 ohms between terminal 1 & 2. Does this mean they sent me a bad coil, or am I just measuring wrong?
Does anybody have any insight into how to check if these things are bad or not? I followed the directions in the Chilton manual. Does anyone know if the FSM provides better details?
Thanks.
The resistance measurements were about the same. I measured 1700 ohms between terminal 1 & 2. Does this mean they sent me a bad coil, or am I just measuring wrong?
Does anybody have any insight into how to check if these things are bad or not? I followed the directions in the Chilton manual. Does anyone know if the FSM provides better details?
Thanks.
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