Last night I pulled the codes from TCM and got "3rd flash longer than others = Throttle sensor circuit is shorted or
disconnected". I knew that, I just wanted to check if it's still there.

This morning I got in my car and turned the key and guess what - it wouldn't start. I tried a couple of times - the engine is turning over, but it just doesn't start. Then I notice that when I turn the key to the ON position the CEL does not come on (as it should). This probably means the ECU is not getting any power. But how do I check that? I checked the fuses and they look OK.

Also when I inserted the key I noticed that the OD light was flashing - 16 short flashes. I tried pulling the codes from TCM but at a certain point in the procedure the OD light started flashing again (16 short) and it wouldn't let me complete the procedure.

I couldn't play with all this any longer 'cause I had to leave. But I disconnected the negative battery terminal until I get back home from work to see if that helps.

Please help. Any ideas are welcome.
Thanks.

 

Your car is still in diagnostics mode. Reset the ECU and then start her up!

 

Thanks njmaxseltd (as usual).

I was stupid to forgot to mention this earlier - I also tried to reset the ECU, but since it looks like there's no power getting to it resetting by turning the screw didn't work. That's why I disconnected the battery. But I doubt that that will do anything.

Any other ideas?

 

Anyone?
Thanks in advance.

 

Bump to the top.

Anyone? Please throw in a comment at least.
Thanks.

 

Something interesting I found in the Haynes manual under Emissions and engine control system, 6-5

Clearing codes:
After the system has been repaired, the codes can be cleared from the PCM memory. Clear the codes as follow: ....

The manual goes on to describe how to clear codes with ODB-II or via the set screw as we know how to do it. It also has this statement which I think we should be aware of and will change what we think resetting the ECU actually does.

"CAUTION: Do not disconnect the battery from the vehicle to clear the codes. This will erase stored operating parameters from the memory and cause the engine to run rough for a period of time while the computer relearns the information."

So it seems that simply resetting the ECU after a performance mod does absolutely nothing to the operating parameters stored in the ECU. All the reset does is clear any error codes stored. A lot of members on here tell you to reset the ECU after working on or modifying your engine. That accomplishes absolutely nothing unless you have an error code stored.

On the other hand, I do remember reading a few posts about cars batteries dying or sitting for periods of time with no battery attached, then the cars don't run correctly. This explains why that happens. Given some time, it should return to it's normal running state.

Zirafa, you may be experiencing some trouble starting now because you disconnected your battery. Put everything back together and let the car sit overnight with the battery properly connected. Hopefully you'll get the car started the next day.

Good luck!
Tom

 

Thanks, Tom. I really appreciate your help.
I fixed it!!!

I cannot believe how simple it was - a fuse in the fuse box on the driver side in the engine compartment. Honestly, I was too p***ed and at the same time too happy that it was this easy that I cannot tell now which one it was but I think it was the one marked BCM (7.5A).
I must have shorted it somehow when I checked the KS and TPS the night before (it was dark).
As soon as I replaced it everything went back to normal - the car started fine. I checked the codes again and KS is still bad.

When I started the car after the battery was disconnected for a day it idled a little rough for less than a minute and it drove the same as before.

Thanks again for all your help.