I was wondering if anybody had heard anything about the adjustable KYB shocks. like what they feel like with lowering springs etc..... i was wandering around in autozone and i saw them and they weren't that expensive. any info would be greatly appreciated. thanks





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99 black se 5sp
stillen intake, ground control coilovers, 18 inch Konig Monsoons w/ 235/40 pirelli tires.

future mods:apexi catback, FSTB, underdrive pulley, (lightened flywheel and better clutch when mine wear out) A-pillar guages....more to be announced

 

The adjustable KYB's are called AGX. The standard KYB's are "GR-2" or something like that, which are non adjustable. Currently, I don't think AGX are available for Maximas, but the GR-2's are.

 

The AGX's are used on the Cattman coilovers. The ones that are used for those are actually for an Eclipse that are modified to fit the maxima. There aren't any AGX's for the Max yet.

 

thanks for telling me about the adjustable. but what about the non adjustable has anybody heard anything about those. thanks

 

How much did you see the KYB's in autozone for?

 

i think the guy said that for the front were 80 and the back were 60. i told him that i wanted to know the price of the adjustable ones but he probably typed in the nonadjustable ones. still isn't that bad though.


__________________
99 black se 5sp
stillen intake, ground control coilovers, 18 inch Konig Monsoons w/ 235/40 pirelli tires.

future mods:apexi catback, FSTB, underdrive pulley, (lightened flywheel and better clutch when mine wear out) A-pillar guages....more to be announced

 

KYB is probably fine for stock springs. They are probably not valved stiff enough for any kind of performance spring.
At least for 4-gens anyway. Tokicos seem to suffer the same fate as KYBs but seem to be vavled stiffer than the KYBs.

For the 3-gens, Tokicos seem to be fine for Eibachs but again KYBs were not recommended for performance springs by shox.com

 

Hey matt, do you have any pictures of your car with the coilovers on the lowest setting? How does your car ride with the coilovers? I'd love to know what your thoughts are because I'm contemplating getting some but want some outside opinions.

cheers,

five

 

no i do not have any pictures because i don't have digital camera. right now i have it lowered about 2.25 in front and 2 in back. if you check out the post titled "i lowered my car even more today" my car looks very similar to that. the front is about the same but the back is a little higher but not much. i know you can drop all the way to like 3.2 inches, which will make the wheel be tucked inside the wheel well. the only time i would do that would be for show. if i ever show my car. right now my car is a little bouncy (depending on what kind of bump i hit) because i have stock shocks. but the majority of the time the ride is not that far from stock. i expect the bouncing will go away when i get new shocks. handiling is awesome even w/o a FSTB. the only thing i have a problem with is that every once and awhile the back springs start squeaking. because i put the coilovers on myself i think that i did not tighten the bolts up all the way. so i went in and tightened them up. the squeaking noise stopped. but they started squeaking again and i think it is because on the coilover there are 3 metal parts that touch each other and i think they are rubbing. this weekend i am going to put some kind of gasket material in between the metal pieces to see if that works. i will post my findings. other than that i am very happy with my coilovers. good luck and how do you have two exhausts.

 

I've got KYBs on the rears teamed with my ST springs. The ride is very firm and controlled. I've had these struts in for about 3 months and they feel as good as day one. I can't speak about the valving of the KYBs vs the Toks, but I can tell you that the KYBs have a much heavier duty feel, bigger strut shaft, and they are bigger. With the failure rates of the Toks, I don't think you can go wrong with the KYBs.

BTW, I've got Koni's in the front and the ride all around is firm and very controlled (ie no bouncing or rocking).

Dave

 

[good luck and how do you have two exhausts. [/I][/QUOTE]

Matt, thanks for the great info! My two exhausts were derived from cutting the spare tire well out and customizing a stainless steel y-pipe to house the 2 mufflers.

cheers,

five

 

- Hey Guys, I just found out today that KYB's are manufactured by the same compnay that owns Tokico. Someone mentioned that the KYB's feel a bit beefier, so I can only assume that they are the premier brand. Much like Lexus is to Toyota, or something of that nature.
- Since Cattman uses the KYB-AGX's on their Coilovers, could someone with the set-up please give a run-down on their experience with them? I'm planning on purchasing them soon, but would like to see how they have fared. Also, I know that Cattman is working on tuning them around for added street comfort. Any idea on when that work will be finished?

- Matt

 

are the KYB struts non-adjustable or adjustable. also what setting have you put the koni's at in order to make them ride the same. that sounds like a great idea. thanks for the info


[Edited by matt calder on 01-18-2001 at 08:07 PM]

 

I have kyb gr-2s all around and they feel great. They are very stiff and handle well with my lowering springs. They are non adjustable for all those folks that cant read the top of the post and for the money i think that they are worth it.

 

I have the Koni's adjusted to approximately 70% firmness. The ride is slightly stiffer in the front, but that's where 60% of the weight is. When I go the 1/4 mile track, I'm gonna take the Koni's to 100% to limit as much launch and shift rocking as possible. I drove around on the Koni's at 100% and let's just say the Koni's were adjusted back approximately 1/8th mile later


Dave

 

- If you adjust all the shocks to 100%, the car might bounce around and cause wheel-hop, which will cause you to lose traction, etc. Turn the rear up all the way to keep the front end planted, but lower the fronts to almost nothing. This will keep your drive wheels on the ground. Trust me, this will ensure a must better launch. Save the 100% for a perfectly paved track. ;-)

 

[/I][/QUOTE]



- If you adjust all the shocks to 100%, the car might bounce around and cause wheel-hop, which will cause you to lose traction, etc. Turn the rear up all the way to keep the front end planted, but lower the fronts to almost nothing. This will keep your drive wheels on the ground. Trust me, this will ensure a must better launch. Save the 100% for a perfectly paved track. ;-) [/I][/QUOTE]


No offence, but what you said doesn't make sense in two ways. Wheel hop is caused by a "loose" suspension and under dampened shocks. If I run my Koni's at minimal dampening, the front end will lift while the rear will squat. That will cause a major lose of traction. If I had a RWD car your setup would work, but not on a FWD car.

Last season at the track I ran on completely blown struts all around. It was a waste of time because the front end lifted high on launch and caused major wheelspin plus the rear hopped and bounced on launch and every shift. It is very clear how bad the suspension was after viewing video of my races.


Dave

 

Hey DAVE B. - I was wondering if the pic on your website of your car was with your ST springs? And how much is it lowered? Also, how long did it take to install the Prelude seats? I was thinking about doing that conversion for the more aggressive look as well. Thanks for your help.
-Custom-

 

- No. By turning up the rears and lowering the fronts, your rear end will be "pushing" on the front wheels. If you have the fronts too high, the front end will fight the force.
- Think of it this way: When you launch, doesn't the car kind of raise the front and put more force on the rear tires? Yes, that's one of the reasons people prefer RWD for drag racing. So, if you have the rears up to full, they will fight the inertial effect, thus, keeping more weight (and TRACTION) on the front drive wheels. Do you see now?

 

Nope. I don't see. By adjusting the Koni's to full firmness, the front end will not raise as much and won't rock on shifts because the rebound is heavily dampened. All this lifting and bouncing in the front causes major traction problems. Before the Koni's, I could easily smoke my tires thru 2nd. Now I just barely chirp them. Same goes for launch. I can leave the line much harder. My car barely nose dives on hard shifts or under hard braking. Also remember that I will be running spring blockers in the rear to reduce squat.


Dave