Darwould

I had set out to replace the rear rotors and pads this weekend, and discovered a seized caliper. Is there any info available anywhere on the procedure? I have tried some links referred to here, but some are dead or under construction. Someone mentioned that I might have some trouble with the anti-lock system when bleeding the lines.

I'll be trying to pick up a service manual as well.

Any advice would be appreciated.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

It's pretty straight forward, put the new caliper on and have a friend pump the brakes. Run about 2 resevoiors of fluid through it to make sure all the air is out. You can also invest 30 bucks and get a vacuume bleeder. Makes the job a one man operation.

It's also a good time to bleed all your calipers and flush the system with completely new fluid. It should be done every 2 years or so, I flush mine every time I change my pads. It keeps the system clean and operating the best it can. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbes moisture by nature. Moisture in your brake system can cause failures of things like calipers, master cylinders and even your ABS system. you already have one caliper thats failed, do some maintenance on your system before the rest start to go.

Darwould

Thanks for the advice. I'll look into the vacuum bleeder since this is something I'll be doing more than once.

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

Pick up a Hayne's manual while you're at it.

-Great resource for any DIY-er.

gsleve

Or you could use a one man bleeder with a one way check valve, this device has worked wonders for me for the last 10yrs with no ingress air during the pumping stage, less messy as well..

You might first want to vacum out the master cylinder first and replenish with fresh brake fluid then open the rear bleeder screw and turn the piston clockwise this will expel the old fluid from the caliper additionally it will aid without having to bleed a lot of air out of the caliper you'll need to attach a rubber hose during the piston procedure, afterwards you could then bleed the rest of the calipers with the one man unit about 4 pumps will help, OH KEEP IN MIND DO NOT DO NOT PUMP THE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR DAMAGE WILL INCUR TO THE MASTER CYLINDER WHERE THE UNPLOISHED SECTION OF THE CYLINDER HAS BUILT UP CARBON, UPON THE PISTON BEING PUSHED INTO UPPER PORTION OF THE BORE CONTACT OF THE SEALS IN THE CYLINDER COULD BE DAMAGED.

To avoid this place a 2x4 under the brake pedal this will impede the travel of the pedal so as not to reach the floor.

Geophrum

justs asking the simple questions...

You sure its seized? the rear calapers are different from the front ones.. the rear are threded calapers as the fronts are pistons

I stupidly found out that you need to turn the calaper clockwise to retract it instead of using a c-clamp...

not that i am saying that you didnt know that just making a point incase you didnt.. i was about to buy new calapers till i actually looked at them and noticed the 4 notches in the calaper

Darwould

Thanks for helping me clarify my stupidity!

The caliper was fine. I assumed they all were pistons! This is the first time I'm getting into the DIY zone on the Maxima. I've never heard of threaded calipers. I guess I should have waited until I got the Haynes manual.

I jumped to conclusions since one of the pins that held the caliper to the torque member was in fact very seized. I assumed for sure the caliper was seized as well. A great lesson learned, and not too expensive as I picked up a caliper and torque member from the local wreckers for $45, and I have the original (good) caliper for backup.

Did I mention this forum is great!

Thanks for all the help.

KWheelzSB

iTrader: (1)

You might also consider picking up a set of Speed-Bleeders as an alternative to the vacuum pump.

I have them on all 4 calipers and they make brake bleeding virtually idiot proof & definitely a clean, 1-man operation. If you do any kind of track-time or plan on bleeding your brakes on schedule, this is a worthwhile investment to consider.

I think the set of 4 ran me under $30.

See: www.speedbleeder.com