Does lowering the car 1.5" really make a difference? I ask only because when I had my Jeep I raised it 5.5" to accomidate 35" tires and wheel travel, a real purpose. The suspension plus body lift cost around $1000, but you could see a definite difference. With lowering only 1.5" is the center of gravity really changed that much, or is it for wheel gap? I'm trying to justify spending an extra couple hundred dollars for this modification. Thanks.

 

Springs don't just lower the center of gravity but they stiffen up the suspension a little too.

 

Yes they do. But if you lower, you will need performance shocks/struts too. The stockers are too weak to last in lowered springs.

The biggest drawback of lowering a Maxima is the bad ride quality. Despite what people here might tell you, even with ride oriented springs like H&R's, the ride is pretty lousy after lowering. And if you get stiffer springs like Eibachs or Sprints, the ride will be downright harsh. But most people, myself included, feel the handling increase is worth the ride tradeoff.

 

I went 35k on my stock struts without a problem with H&R springs. I rode in other cars with different springs and H&R were the best overall.

SHUMAX

 

If I get H&R and still use my stock struts, how will I know when the struts go bad?

 

Yes, there is a big difference -- especially at highway speeds. At 75 the car feels much more solid. As far a ride quality, I would agree with shumax. H&R's are pretty nice. My car rides and performs better than my mom's 99 Mitsu Galant GTZ with a "sport-tuned suspension". Some roads are a little harsh, but that is usually on some crappy back roads. Also the ride hash gotten better after the first 1000 miles because the Tokico's have softened up a bit, but the performance is still go. Now let's just hope the Tokico's hold up...

 

That depends on what you consider bad ride quality... I guess I've owned too many trucks, but I've ridden in maximas with H&R's and I didn't even notice the ride. My car with coilovers doesn't bother me, the only time I ever notice it is on a really bad rode at slow speeds...

 

you can't have it all, better handling-less comfort, more power-less gas mileage, remember GIVE AND TAKE

 

I had mine on for 35k and finally on a trip home from Chicago the left front one collapsed and leaked oil everywhere. I wasn't happy but I made it home. I am selling the car in 8months so I bought 2 KYB's and threw them on for $100. I can't tell one bit of differance in the ride quality. Kind of makes me think that the ride quality was fine in the old shocks/struts, but that they were overworked and finally gave up. After 35k I don't blame them
If you are going to do this right...do the Tok's and the H&R and be done with it. If you plan to sell the car in a couple of years for the H&R's and be done with it. You will save on install prices if you do both, but if you aren't keeping the car that long, who cares, right?


BTW...H&R's look great on the car and aren't to far from stock ride quality at all. The others felt like I was riding on the bumps with my bare a$$ and didn't seem to make the car handle anywhere near enough to give up THAT much comfort!

SHUMAx

 

Thanks for the info. What should I expect to pay for new H&R, Tokico and installation. (total price and breakdown) Thanks.

 

I would expect about $200 or a bit less on the H&R's. For the shocks/struts? Maybe $370 if you shop a bit for them...carparts has them, but they CAN be a hassle Installation will cost about $100-150. I paid $120 to have mine done at an independednt shop around Akron Ohio.

If you want more pics, let me know via email. shumax@yahoo.com

SHUMAX

 

>>With lowering only 1.5" is the center of gravity really >>changed that much, or is it for wheel gap

Considering the stock ground clearance (~7" or so?), 1.5" lowring is rather significant to the center of gravity. I am using H&R with stock shocks. My brother's been driving his 97SE with H&R with stock shocks for 50k+ miles and no problem. Is the ride really that harsh after the drop? I'd say it's hardly noticeable if you don't hit any big bumps. I guess that's why I stayed with H&R when I bought the Maxima. Below are, in the order of importance, the reasons I choose to lower my car:

1. Lower center of gravity for cornering
2. Stiffer spring rate for cornering (goes hand-in-hand with #1 reason)
3. Appearance

 

You will know if your shocks are gone if the dampening quality of the ride decreases. Basically, your suspension won't handle the bumps/potholes as well any longer. Also, the shocks may potentially blow completely and leak oil.

 

in response to the question about installation prices. That is the major determining factor holding me back from buying springs.. in iowa the cheapest place where i live is $320 to install them... this seems high, i asked some of my mercedes friends and it cost them the same for springs on their cars?? what is your guy's findings on installation prices???

 

for a quality mechanic to do the job that sounds about right. Don't forget that you will also need an alignment.

 

thanks, that price was including a 4 wheel alignment.. it sounded high, but thanks i guess it is reasonable...

 

if you are gonna buy the best shocks and springs for the car then lowering would be alright if you get cheap stuff you are gonna see not as good performance . Its all about how much you are willing to spend

 

- The Koni shock/H&R Spring set-up is a very nice ride, but if you want to adjust the Koni's, you have to go to a lot of trouble to mess with the rears. You have to remove the rear wheels just to reach the ****. On top of that, Koni's don't have numbered settings, so one shock could be out of whack with the other and vice versa. For the same price (plus a reasonable $400 for front adjustable camber plates) you can purchase the Cattman Coilovers ($1300 plus shipping). They're fully adjustable in terms of ride height AND shock firmness. They are the best and the price is exactly in line with the Koni/H&R setup + camber plates. Good luck with your decision.