450 bucks b/c of Hyanes Manual
#1
450 bucks b/c of Hyanes Manual
I have a 1996 nissan MAXIMA!!!!!!!
I bought the Haynes repair manual for my car yrs. 1993 through 2001 ISBN (1 56392 450 1). And I always thought it had the answers for everything, until my water pump broke. I have replaced water pumps in other cars pretty quick, but for my Maxima I need the repair manual, or so I thought. In order to get to the water pump you need to romove lots and lots of stuff including the timing chain cover. In the book section 2B-10 figure 7.36b it clearly shows only 20 bolts holding the cover on, but there in NOT only 20 bolts there are 22 bolts. In order to get to the other two you need to remove the oil pan. The book never mentions removing the oil pan or does it mention the two extra screws.
I spent two months staring and looking on how to remove the cover. To make a long story short I ended up breaking the cover into two pieces. So i called the dealership and they told me "$450.00 bucks sr." , so i was like "ummmmmmmmm no way sr." and he said "yes sr." so i hung up, so my next move was the junk yard. At the junk yard the ppl were removing the cover and so i was waiting and then i decided to go back where the junk cars were. Sure enough they were doing the same thing i did. I had to tell them to take off the oil pan and take off the extra screws. They nearly broke the cover them selfs.
Why did Nissan engineers do this. It is just plain and simple not logical for them to do this. I know for sure I am not the first person for this to have happen to them, or am I.
I bought the Haynes repair manual for my car yrs. 1993 through 2001 ISBN (1 56392 450 1). And I always thought it had the answers for everything, until my water pump broke. I have replaced water pumps in other cars pretty quick, but for my Maxima I need the repair manual, or so I thought. In order to get to the water pump you need to romove lots and lots of stuff including the timing chain cover. In the book section 2B-10 figure 7.36b it clearly shows only 20 bolts holding the cover on, but there in NOT only 20 bolts there are 22 bolts. In order to get to the other two you need to remove the oil pan. The book never mentions removing the oil pan or does it mention the two extra screws.
I spent two months staring and looking on how to remove the cover. To make a long story short I ended up breaking the cover into two pieces. So i called the dealership and they told me "$450.00 bucks sr." , so i was like "ummmmmmmmm no way sr." and he said "yes sr." so i hung up, so my next move was the junk yard. At the junk yard the ppl were removing the cover and so i was waiting and then i decided to go back where the junk cars were. Sure enough they were doing the same thing i did. I had to tell them to take off the oil pan and take off the extra screws. They nearly broke the cover them selfs.
Why did Nissan engineers do this. It is just plain and simple not logical for them to do this. I know for sure I am not the first person for this to have happen to them, or am I.
#2
Re: 450 bucks b/c of Hyanes Manual
Originally posted by delacruz_17
I have a 1996 nissan MAXIMA!!!!!!!
I bought the Haynes repair manual for my car yrs. 1993 through 2001 ISBN (1 56392 450 1). And I always thought it had the answers for everything, until my water pump broke. I have replaced water pumps in other cars pretty quick, but for my Maxima I need the repair manual, or so I thought. In order to get to the water pump you need to romove lots and lots of stuff including the timing chain cover. In the book section 2B-10 figure 7.36b it clearly shows only 20 bolts holding the cover on, but there in NOT only 20 bolts there are 22 bolts. In order to get to the other two you need to remove the oil pan. The book never mentions removing the oil pan or does it mention the two extra screws.
I spent two months staring and looking on how to remove the cover. To make a long story short I ended up breaking the cover into two pieces. So i called the dealership and they told me "$450.00 bucks sr." , so i was like "ummmmmmmmm no way sr." and he said "yes sr." so i hung up, so my next move was the junk yard. At the junk yard the ppl were removing the cover and so i was waiting and then i decided to go back where the junk cars were. Sure enough they were doing the same thing i did. I had to tell them to take off the oil pan and take off the extra screws. They nearly broke the cover them selfs.
Why did Nissan engineers do this. It is just plain and simple not logical for them to do this. I know for sure I am not the first person for this to have happen to them, or am I.
I have a 1996 nissan MAXIMA!!!!!!!
I bought the Haynes repair manual for my car yrs. 1993 through 2001 ISBN (1 56392 450 1). And I always thought it had the answers for everything, until my water pump broke. I have replaced water pumps in other cars pretty quick, but for my Maxima I need the repair manual, or so I thought. In order to get to the water pump you need to romove lots and lots of stuff including the timing chain cover. In the book section 2B-10 figure 7.36b it clearly shows only 20 bolts holding the cover on, but there in NOT only 20 bolts there are 22 bolts. In order to get to the other two you need to remove the oil pan. The book never mentions removing the oil pan or does it mention the two extra screws.
I spent two months staring and looking on how to remove the cover. To make a long story short I ended up breaking the cover into two pieces. So i called the dealership and they told me "$450.00 bucks sr." , so i was like "ummmmmmmmm no way sr." and he said "yes sr." so i hung up, so my next move was the junk yard. At the junk yard the ppl were removing the cover and so i was waiting and then i decided to go back where the junk cars were. Sure enough they were doing the same thing i did. I had to tell them to take off the oil pan and take off the extra screws. They nearly broke the cover them selfs.
Why did Nissan engineers do this. It is just plain and simple not logical for them to do this. I know for sure I am not the first person for this to have happen to them, or am I.
![](http://images.cardomain.com/member_img_a/195000-195999/195120_47.gif)
#3
well that is just to look at it. I had a hard enough time removing the water pump with the cover off, i couldn't picutre myself doing it with such little space, like the picture above. As a matter of fact i had to release the timing chain because the water pump wouldn't come off.
Maximus75, have u replaced a water pump on a maxima. If you have then u need to tell me how, that is also the way the Haynes manual says to do it. The tiny black cover which u are talking bout is the very first thing i took off, but i couldn't do anything.
Maximus75, have u replaced a water pump on a maxima. If you have then u need to tell me how, that is also the way the Haynes manual says to do it. The tiny black cover which u are talking bout is the very first thing i took off, but i couldn't do anything.
#5
I had the same thing happen to me. I try to remove the water pump using the two screw method with the guidance of Haynes Manual and it did not mention anything about the screws in the oil pan. Anyway, I did not break the cover on mine but the chain got stuck on the water pump and I ended up breaking the water pump. So I had my maxima towed to a mechanic and the guy replaced my water pump, thermostat, belts, and radiator for about $260. Next time I will check this forum out before I believe this book.
#8
OMG I wanna hug you guys. Well not really but, I was planning on replacing my water pump myself TODAY (right after work at 3pm) if i wouldn't have read this i'd be screwed. My water pump went just as i discovered a coolant leak (the water pump weeping i think). So now my car overheats any time i drive it so its sitting at home and i'm carless =(. Crap i'm glad i read this though cause now i'm thinking this isn't the typical do it yourselfer. I'm gonna go have it done. Sucks though cause spending 70 bucks on the water pump is way better then spending 250-350 on labor <crying>.
#9
the tensioner i never remember reading about removing the tensioner, well atleast not right now, i'll check as soon as i get home, but i dont think it says that under removing the water pump section, but then again i am only human and able to be wrong
well now that i see, it is sounds like it would come right out if i would have know how to remove the tensioner.
well now that i see, it is sounds like it would come right out if i would have know how to remove the tensioner.
#10
Ok Now i'm confused, looks like i might have to be hard headed and try this myself. In the book it says that you have to rotate the cam shaft 20 deg. to loosen the timing chain. I would figure thats where your problem is. Don't get my wrong i have NO idea how to rotate the cam shaft or even what or where the cam shaft is but it does say that in the manuel. I have to admit though the manual is faulted in many ways. In the section about the water pump ALL of the pic's shown are for the SOHC engine. Now being that the book is from 1993-1999 Why would they show the pictures of the engine that only appeared in 2 out of the 6 years. Thats just plain stupid. The majority of the peopl that buy the book are gonna have a dohc engine. And the pictures usually have no reference what so ever to where in the engine your supposed to be looking making it near impossible to find what the picture is pointing to. So my question... Has anyone actually SUCESSFULLY changed their water pump? If so would the recommend doing it or paying someone to do it?
#11
Originally posted by TonyGotSkilz
Ok Now i'm confused, looks like i might have to be hard headed and try this myself. In the book it says that you have to rotate the cam shaft 20 deg. to loosen the timing chain. I would figure thats where your problem is. Don't get my wrong i have NO idea how to rotate the cam shaft or even what or where the cam shaft is but it does say that in the manuel. I have to admit though the manual is faulted in many ways. In the section about the water pump ALL of the pic's shown are for the SOHC engine. Now being that the book is from 1993-1999 Why would they show the pictures of the engine that only appeared in 2 out of the 6 years. Thats just plain stupid. The majority of the peopl that buy the book are gonna have a dohc engine. And the pictures usually have no reference what so ever to where in the engine your supposed to be looking making it near impossible to find what the picture is pointing to. So my question... Has anyone actually SUCESSFULLY changed their water pump? If so would the recommend doing it or paying someone to do it?
Ok Now i'm confused, looks like i might have to be hard headed and try this myself. In the book it says that you have to rotate the cam shaft 20 deg. to loosen the timing chain. I would figure thats where your problem is. Don't get my wrong i have NO idea how to rotate the cam shaft or even what or where the cam shaft is but it does say that in the manuel. I have to admit though the manual is faulted in many ways. In the section about the water pump ALL of the pic's shown are for the SOHC engine. Now being that the book is from 1993-1999 Why would they show the pictures of the engine that only appeared in 2 out of the 6 years. Thats just plain stupid. The majority of the peopl that buy the book are gonna have a dohc engine. And the pictures usually have no reference what so ever to where in the engine your supposed to be looking making it near impossible to find what the picture is pointing to. So my question... Has anyone actually SUCESSFULLY changed their water pump? If so would the recommend doing it or paying someone to do it?
#12
I would suggest the Chilton's manual over the Haynes. In the Chilton's manual, they say you need undo the passenger engine mount and jack up the motor a little bit for slightly better access. Then remove the water pump and timing chain tensioner access covers (as seen in the pic above). From what I can tell, you insert a small pin in the tensioner which releases the chain tension (looks easy). Slowly remove (one turn at a time) two or three bolts holding the pump in. The manual notes access is tight, but it will come out. Pull out the pump, install the new one with a new O-ring, tighten carefully, reinstall covers, and mount. This is all off the top of my head, but I'm certain they NEVER call for removing the timing chain cover. I know Nissan didn't make access on the VQ terribly easy on some places, but having to pull the oil pan and timing chain cover to access the water pump would be insane.
Dave
Dave
#13
Well i was being alil sarcastic there. I mean i know what a camshaft is now where it is on the car, i have no idea, but i'm sure i can find it. So far i have alot of VQ work under my belt, i've made and intake, changed almost ever sensor including the damn knock sensor, changed ignition coils/spark plugs. I'm not a complete noob but i think this is gonna be my hardest job yet. My roomate is an airplane mechanic so i have some help, he usually knows what things are and were they should be but he never actually does any of the work (bastard) so i have backup at least. and all the tools i could possible need. I think i'm gonna give it a try worst case senario i can't get the water pump out, so i reassemble it and drive to get it done somewhere.
#14
Re: 450 bucks b/c of Hyanes Manual
Originally posted by delacruz_17
I have a 1996 nissan MAXIMA!!!!!!!
I bought the Haynes repair manual for my car yrs. 1993 through 2001 ISBN (1 56392 450 1).
I have a 1996 nissan MAXIMA!!!!!!!
I bought the Haynes repair manual for my car yrs. 1993 through 2001 ISBN (1 56392 450 1).
![kiss](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/kiss.gif)
#16
I tried to put the pics on here but they are too big so here are the links...
Water pump pic...
That is a pic of the pump out of the car. I should have taken a pic of the car w/ the timing chain still on but I forgot. Here is a pic of where the pump is and it's relation to the inside of the timing chain case (without the timing chain).
Inside cover...
What Dave said is correct, push the tensioner piston back so you can put a stopper pin in to hold it. I used a paper clip, whatever works. That will give you enough slack in the chain to get it off of the teeth of the pump. You have to get that slack over to the pump itself, that's why they say to turn a camshaft. I turned the crank but, whatever works.
The pump itself has threads in it that are bigger than the bolts that secure it to the motor. Remove the three bolts holding to the motor, then screw in two 8mm bolts into the top and bottom holes. By turning these into the pump flange, you will start pulling the pump away from the motor.
Hope that makes sense...
D
Water pump pic...
That is a pic of the pump out of the car. I should have taken a pic of the car w/ the timing chain still on but I forgot. Here is a pic of where the pump is and it's relation to the inside of the timing chain case (without the timing chain).
Inside cover...
What Dave said is correct, push the tensioner piston back so you can put a stopper pin in to hold it. I used a paper clip, whatever works. That will give you enough slack in the chain to get it off of the teeth of the pump. You have to get that slack over to the pump itself, that's why they say to turn a camshaft. I turned the crank but, whatever works.
The pump itself has threads in it that are bigger than the bolts that secure it to the motor. Remove the three bolts holding to the motor, then screw in two 8mm bolts into the top and bottom holes. By turning these into the pump flange, you will start pulling the pump away from the motor.
Hope that makes sense...
D
#17
Originally posted by MadMax95
I tried to put the pics on here but they are too big so here are the links...
Water pump pic...
That is a pic of the pump out of the car. I should have taken a pic of the car w/ the timing chain still on but I forgot. Here is a pic of where the pump is and it's relation to the inside of the timing chain case (without the timing chain).
Inside cover...
What Dave said is correct, push the tensioner piston back so you can put a stopper pin in to hold it. I used a paper clip, whatever works. That will give you enough slack in the chain to get it off of the teeth of the pump. You have to get that slack over to the pump itself, that's why they say to turn a camshaft. I turned the crank but, whatever works.
The pump itself has threads in it that are bigger than the bolts that secure it to the motor. Remove the three bolts holding to the motor, then screw in two 8mm bolts into the top and bottom holes. By turning these into the pump flange, you will start pulling the pump away from the motor.
Hope that makes sense...
D
I tried to put the pics on here but they are too big so here are the links...
Water pump pic...
That is a pic of the pump out of the car. I should have taken a pic of the car w/ the timing chain still on but I forgot. Here is a pic of where the pump is and it's relation to the inside of the timing chain case (without the timing chain).
Inside cover...
What Dave said is correct, push the tensioner piston back so you can put a stopper pin in to hold it. I used a paper clip, whatever works. That will give you enough slack in the chain to get it off of the teeth of the pump. You have to get that slack over to the pump itself, that's why they say to turn a camshaft. I turned the crank but, whatever works.
The pump itself has threads in it that are bigger than the bolts that secure it to the motor. Remove the three bolts holding to the motor, then screw in two 8mm bolts into the top and bottom holes. By turning these into the pump flange, you will start pulling the pump away from the motor.
Hope that makes sense...
D
#18
Water pump removal for VG 3-gen VE 3-gen and VQ 4-gen
http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...61CH03_10.HTML
From chilton's online.
http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...61CH03_10.HTML
From chilton's online.
#19
WOW!!!!!! Jeff, i should have asked here in the forums before working on my water pump. That way only takes like 30 minutes to do. Not hours like I have spent.
Only one question though. When u release the chain with the tensioner wouldn't there be a chance that the chain won't go back to its original state when u turn the crankshaft back clockwise? Like after the new water pump is on. My question i guess would be, will the timing change if you use this method?
Only one question though. When u release the chain with the tensioner wouldn't there be a chance that the chain won't go back to its original state when u turn the crankshaft back clockwise? Like after the new water pump is on. My question i guess would be, will the timing change if you use this method?
#21
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
I get what the book was trying to say. Then the book is NOT very clear about it, the wording that the book uses is off. Two or three more pictures would of have helped A WHOLE LOT!!!!!!!, i would have not been in this if they would have just simple added a couple more pictures.
I get what the book was trying to say. Then the book is NOT very clear about it, the wording that the book uses is off. Two or three more pictures would of have helped A WHOLE LOT!!!!!!!, i would have not been in this if they would have just simple added a couple more pictures.
#22
Wow you guys own, i couldn't find the chilton manuel anywhere today but with that link i'm confident about doing the water pump install tomorrow. Looks like a 2 hour job tops (with a 2 hour oh sheit factor) so tops 4 hours. Thanx guys you helped a whooole lot.
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