bb0ys

When the engine is cold (i.e. sitting over night), it turns over almost instantly. If I shut it off, and then turn it back in soon (within a half hour or so) it starts up fine as well. However, if I let it sit for about 2 hours (i.e. goto a movie and come back) it turns over almost 6 or 10 times before starting. The temp guage reads very close to the bottom (within a mm of the Cold line) but it isn't all the way at the bottom because I can see it move up when I turn the key. But like i said, if the temp guage is in the middle or even 1/4 of the way up when i try to start it, the engine turns right over. It also turns right over when the water temp guage is at the complete bottom and the engine is as cold as the outdoor temp.

any ideas why only a small range of temperatures affect the engine, but above or below this it starts fine?

bb0ys

any ideas? someone had earlier commented about the water temp sensor...?

maximalnemisis

have you tried changing the spark plugs Iam having a similar problems but mine after I put in not different plugs my car starts and then shuts off sometimes I have too hold the gas pedal down and crank it or while its trying to die or hit the gas pedal lightly to sorta help it, then she warms up properly... when I told the dealer the problem they asked immediately if I had recently changed the plugs and what kind I had used and they told me too change them back to the original and let them know becauase they had alot of problems like that recently and they all had to do with the plugs... maybe this can help

ssubhash

If its temperature related, your Engine Coolant Temp Sensor is suspect. The way I understand the PCM uses the sensor's signal to determine the appropriate mixture of gas and air.

Assuming you checked battery, spark, starter, cleaned TB etc already.

Having said that, my car has a similar problem - unresolved even after replacing ECTS!

All the best and if you find the root cause, let us know.

bb0ys

I'm going to replace the sensor this weekend if the weather lets me. I'd like to pick one up at either the Nissan Dealer or a generic Auto-parts store. Does brand matter?
I've got relatively new ngk platinums, new battery, don't think its the starter because it starts fine when cold or hot, and cleaned the TB just a month ago.

bb0ys

I was looking at autozone.com and the coolant temperature sensor only has a 3 month warranty and costs $24.99. Is this the right product based on name and price? I always thought it was just a few dollars for the sensor.

bb0ys

Anybody know about the Coolant Temp. Sensor part and had experience replacing it? Wheres the best place to get the part?

bb0ys

anyone got info on the engine coolant temp sensor?

ssubhash

The $25 sounds about right. You can ring up any dealer's parts dept and ask.

bb0ys

Is there any reason i should buy from Nissan? I will assuming they have the part in stock, but if they don't I'll just go to Avance Auto Parts or something. Is there any reason I should stay away from the 3rd party brand ECTS?

(_8*(l)Homer

This is normal for our Maxima's. I remember reading a post about this a few months ago. Warm starts are hard for the Max for some reason. Mine does the same thing.

One thing you could try is turning the key to the 'ON' position until the chime stops dinging 5 times. This gives your fuel pump time to fully pressurize the line. It's worth a shot. I do it every time I start my car.


My 2¢

(_8*(l)

Eric L.

This topic has been discussed many times over the past 3-4 years. In fact, I think I originated the warm start post with Daniel B Martin many years ago!

Since the search feature has been disabled, here is what I remember.

The consensus was that when the engine has been shut off for a couple hours, it cools down to the point where it requires a "cold start" routine from the ECU to start up (i.e. more gas). But the coolant temp sensor says "engine is still hot" so the ECU does a hot start (less gas), leading to prolonged cranking until the ECU can compensate with more gas to start the car.

This phenomenon has not happened with my car for a while now, but when it does, stepping on the gas a bit while cranking usually fires it right up without drama.

This is just one of those Maxima annoyances that isn't really harmful to the car, but is kind of nagging to the driver. I do not think you need to replace your coolant temp sensor, unless you are having major problems with warm starts.

TURBONIUSMAXIM0

i found this thread while searching and it pertains to my issue

my maxima is a 96 with 180 km;s on and it is having intermittend rough starts. it sounds like the timing is off when i start but the timing is fine.

it it is throwing 2 codes 1 is the 02 sensor and one is the knock sensor..now the knock sensor is not a hard code its a sensor issue which may not be worth my time to fix..


it only began about 2 months ago...do u think its no big deal or should i be concerned?

FLO_BOY

It's a PIECE OF CAKE!

In fact, I've replaced my ECTS and I even changed another member's
ECTS just last Sunday...whole thing should take NO MORE than 20 mins.

check my website (link from "website" by my username) and
click on "help with Maxima's"...I have a pic of where the part
is located.

good luck!
FLO_BOY

cam_honestiam

iTrader: (2)

My friend, there are reasons for sensors, and one BIG reason is to tell the owner that something is wrong with the car. If your knock sensor is sending out a code, you may want to figure out why... Repeated knocking of the engine can cause serious damage, and it is not something that can wait for long. If you have a failing O2 sensor, you could be losing money on poor gas mileage. If it is your front left O2 sensor, replace it sooner than later. Any stored code will prevent you from passing emissions inspections.
Any time you have a code, you should determine the reason and not pass it off as "not worth your time," cause it may cause you a lot more "time" (i.e., work hours spent earning money) to fix it down the road.

FLO_BOY

just wondering, why would a stored code fail someone for emissions?
personally, I think how the car performs on the day of the test should
be more important than codes that have occurred in the past

thanks.

FLO_BOY

TURBONIUSMAXIM0

the knock sensor is not working ...its a sensor issue not a knock issue...if it was a knock isue i would change it ASAp...

what i am conserned about it how rpugh and jumpy it is when it starts...sounds like its not cranking well...


could this be a timing chain issue?

cam_honestiam

iTrader: (2)

These are the regulations set by the Government

OBD II TEST
An official OBD II emissions test consists of three parts:

1. An inspector checks to see if the MIL light comes on when the key is turned on. If the light does not come on, the vehicle fails the bulb check.

2. A scanner is plugged into the diagnostic link connector (DLC), and the system is checked for monitor readiness. If more than the allowed number of monitors are not ready, the vehicle is rejected and asked to come back later after it has been driven sufficiently to set the readiness flags. The scanner also checks the status of the MIL light (is it on or off?), and downloads any fault codes that may be present.

If the MIL light is on and there are any OBD II codes present, the vehicle fails the test and must be repaired. The vehicle also fails if the DLC is missing, has been tampered with or fails to provide any data.