idle after 5spd conversion
05-14-2003, 12:35 PM
#1
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idle after 5spd conversion
I noticed 2 Idle issues after the 5spd conversion.
1) It will hang around 1500 RPM after moving at idle in Nuetral for about 5 seconds, then drop to 700-800 RPM. I expect this is normal.
2) It bounces constantly between 700-800 RPM in 3/4 second increments....never steadies out.
Also, at idle, the exhaust goes "pop-pop-pop-pop"...kind of like an old muscle car, but not as loud.
When moving, the engine and exhaust sound perfectly normal.
Is all of this expected after a conversion? I pulled all the codes on the ECU, and they're all AT related - nothing else.
IanS
1) It will hang around 1500 RPM after moving at idle in Nuetral for about 5 seconds, then drop to 700-800 RPM. I expect this is normal.
2) It bounces constantly between 700-800 RPM in 3/4 second increments....never steadies out.
Also, at idle, the exhaust goes "pop-pop-pop-pop"...kind of like an old muscle car, but not as loud.
When moving, the engine and exhaust sound perfectly normal.
Is all of this expected after a conversion? I pulled all the codes on the ECU, and they're all AT related - nothing else.
IanS
05-14-2003, 02:24 PM
#3
Originally posted by iansw
I noticed 2 Idle issues after the 5spd conversion.
1) It will hang around 1500 RPM after moving at idle in Nuetral for about 5 seconds, then drop to 700-800 RPM. I expect this is normal.
My maxima does this, I think it't normal. With the exception of the RPM's, my go to 550 RPM's.
2) It bounces constantly between 700-800 RPM in 3/4 second increments....never steadies out.
My car had this problem, and it turned out to be a vacuum leak.
Also, at idle, the exhaust goes "pop-pop-pop-pop"...kind of like an old muscle car, but not as loud.
I think this may be from the Y pipe. But I dont know.
When moving, the engine and exhaust sound perfectly normal.
Is all of this expected after a conversion? I pulled all the codes on the ECU, and they're all AT related - nothing else.
IanS
I noticed 2 Idle issues after the 5spd conversion.
1) It will hang around 1500 RPM after moving at idle in Nuetral for about 5 seconds, then drop to 700-800 RPM. I expect this is normal.
My maxima does this, I think it't normal. With the exception of the RPM's, my go to 550 RPM's.
2) It bounces constantly between 700-800 RPM in 3/4 second increments....never steadies out.
My car had this problem, and it turned out to be a vacuum leak.
Also, at idle, the exhaust goes "pop-pop-pop-pop"...kind of like an old muscle car, but not as loud.
I think this may be from the Y pipe. But I dont know.
When moving, the engine and exhaust sound perfectly normal.
Is all of this expected after a conversion? I pulled all the codes on the ECU, and they're all AT related - nothing else.
IanS
05-14-2003, 06:36 PM
#7
Ian, when I did my conversion, the RPM seemed to hang like that at first, but it slowly went away I think. As far as your idle, it might need a little adjustment since you just went from auto to 5spd, don't know if maybe your low vacuum is affecting it? My (yours now) exhaust sounded the same way. 
05-14-2003, 09:03 PM
#11
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Yeah the rise and drop is ECU realted. The idle bouncing is probably a tuning problem cause i have seemed to get rid of it. And for the exaust noise its just the way it is with stick i guess cause mine does it too.
05-15-2003, 05:07 AM
#12
I'm still running the auto ecu after my 5 spd conversion and I didn;t have a problem with the idle at all. Idle was steady for me. But now that I changed my fmu and running a lil rich I get a jumpy idle on startup. It's all tuning. Have you tuned your car yet?
05-15-2003, 06:41 AM
#14
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Originally posted by 96SE5Spd
I'm not SC'ed but my car does the same thing especialy since I got the VI. And it burbles at idle just a little. Every once in a while it will jump up to 2k and stay there for a few seconds on start up.
I'm not SC'ed but my car does the same thing especialy since I got the VI. And it burbles at idle just a little. Every once in a while it will jump up to 2k and stay there for a few seconds on start up.
Anyway - I have my car tuned to a perfect 12.1:1 curve using the Cartech FMU. I don't think it's a tuning problem.
Butn onetheless, I'm going back to the Dyno in a few weeks, so we'll see. Maybe someone was messing with my FMU during the 5spd swap.
IanS
05-15-2003, 10:01 AM
#15
Never know what else Mr.Questions screwed up... 
Originally posted by iansw
Check your EGR Gasket.
Anyway - I have my car tuned to a perfect 12.1:1 curve using the Cartech FMU. I don't think it's a tuning problem.
Butn onetheless, I'm going back to the Dyno in a few weeks, so we'll see. Maybe someone was messing with my FMU during the 5spd swap.
IanS
Check your EGR Gasket.
Anyway - I have my car tuned to a perfect 12.1:1 curve using the Cartech FMU. I don't think it's a tuning problem.
Butn onetheless, I'm going back to the Dyno in a few weeks, so we'll see. Maybe someone was messing with my FMU during the 5spd swap.
IanS
05-15-2003, 10:24 AM
#16
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No doubt....
Although I marked with a sharpie where it is supposed to be set to for pressure...looks fine.
But the boost adjustment could have been screwed with....
IanS
Although I marked with a sharpie where it is supposed to be set to for pressure...looks fine.
But the boost adjustment could have been screwed with....
IanS
05-15-2003, 10:40 AM
#18
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Originally posted by 96shogunmax
Get the 5spd ecu. I thought you already had one?
Get the 5spd ecu. I thought you already had one?
(15 E-Mails sent 2 weeks ago, resent last week, and only 1 response sayign they no longer had it in stock)
05-15-2003, 12:32 PM
#21
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OK - I called 3 places.
The first (97 SE MT ECU) was $65, but they already sold it.
The second (97 SE MT ECU) was $95, but he wouldn't sell it to me without matching numbers. (Which I obviously don't have)
The third (97 SE MT ECU) was $100, but he wouldn't sell it to me with a warranty unless I was matching numbers....
I decided "to hell with it" and got the $100 one.
It's on the way. I don't think anyone on this board has tried swapping out the 97 AT GXE ECU for a 97 MT SE ECU....I know it's been done with a 96....(Ramius)
We'll just have to see what happens.
IanS
The first (97 SE MT ECU) was $65, but they already sold it.
The second (97 SE MT ECU) was $95, but he wouldn't sell it to me without matching numbers. (Which I obviously don't have)
The third (97 SE MT ECU) was $100, but he wouldn't sell it to me with a warranty unless I was matching numbers....
I decided "to hell with it" and got the $100 one.
It's on the way. I don't think anyone on this board has tried swapping out the 97 AT GXE ECU for a 97 MT SE ECU....I know it's been done with a 96....(Ramius)
We'll just have to see what happens.
IanS
05-23-2003, 01:44 AM
#25
Originally posted by iansw
OK - I called 3 places.
The first (97 SE MT ECU) was $65, but they already sold it.
The second (97 SE MT ECU) was $95, but he wouldn't sell it to me without matching numbers. (Which I obviously don't have)
The third (97 SE MT ECU) was $100, but he wouldn't sell it to me with a warranty unless I was matching numbers....
I decided "to hell with it" and got the $100 one.
It's on the way. I don't think anyone on this board has tried swapping out the 97 AT GXE ECU for a 97 MT SE ECU....I know it's been done with a 96....(Ramius)
We'll just have to see what happens.
IanS
OK - I called 3 places.
The first (97 SE MT ECU) was $65, but they already sold it.
The second (97 SE MT ECU) was $95, but he wouldn't sell it to me without matching numbers. (Which I obviously don't have)
The third (97 SE MT ECU) was $100, but he wouldn't sell it to me with a warranty unless I was matching numbers....
I decided "to hell with it" and got the $100 one.
It's on the way. I don't think anyone on this board has tried swapping out the 97 AT GXE ECU for a 97 MT SE ECU....I know it's been done with a 96....(Ramius)
We'll just have to see what happens.
IanS
-Ben
05-23-2003, 07:25 AM
#26
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Originally posted by Nismo
so it solved all the funny idle issues?
so it solved all the funny idle issues?
When I say "matching numbers" I mean that unless you have the exact same ECU, they don't want to mess with it.
So if you are getting a 97 SE MT ECU, they want to know that you have a 97 MT ECU you are replacing, by checking the numbers on top of the ECU.....
So if you are going from Auto to MT, then you can't match numbers...unless you steal the numbers off a buddy's ECU or something.
05-23-2003, 07:45 AM
#27
Originally posted by iansw
It stopped the idle at 1500 then drop 5 seconds later problem, but not the shaky idle problem....
When I say "matching numbers" I mean that unless you have the exact same ECU, they don't want to mess with it.
So if you are getting a 97 SE MT ECU, they want to know that you have a 97 MT ECU you are replacing, by checking the numbers on top of the ECU.....
So if you are going from Auto to MT, then you can't match numbers...unless you steal the numbers off a buddy's ECU or something.
It stopped the idle at 1500 then drop 5 seconds later problem, but not the shaky idle problem....
When I say "matching numbers" I mean that unless you have the exact same ECU, they don't want to mess with it.
So if you are getting a 97 SE MT ECU, they want to know that you have a 97 MT ECU you are replacing, by checking the numbers on top of the ECU.....
So if you are going from Auto to MT, then you can't match numbers...unless you steal the numbers off a buddy's ECU or something.
05-23-2003, 08:07 AM
#28
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Originally posted by Stephen Max
I ran into the same thing when I was shopping for a manual ECU. The junkyards didn't want to sell me an ECU for a production date that didn't match my car, even when I told them I didn't care. Fortunately I was able to find an ECU with a 10/94 production date, through sheer luck. It's my understanding that any ECU for a 95-96 would have worked in my car, right?
I ran into the same thing when I was shopping for a manual ECU. The junkyards didn't want to sell me an ECU for a production date that didn't match my car, even when I told them I didn't care. Fortunately I was able to find an ECU with a 10/94 production date, through sheer luck. It's my understanding that any ECU for a 95-96 would have worked in my car, right?
Not sure. Although I'm 80% sure that's true.
Mine was 01/97 Production Date (the new ECU) and the car was 03/07 Production Date...worked fine.
But as for 95-96 transferrence - I dunno.
IanS
05-23-2003, 09:42 AM
#29
Originally posted by iansw
It stopped the idle at 1500 then drop 5 seconds later problem, but not the shaky idle problem....
When I say "matching numbers" I mean that unless you have the exact same ECU, they don't want to mess with it.
So if you are getting a 97 SE MT ECU, they want to know that you have a 97 MT ECU you are replacing, by checking the numbers on top of the ECU.....
So if you are going from Auto to MT, then you can't match numbers...unless you steal the numbers off a buddy's ECU or something.
It stopped the idle at 1500 then drop 5 seconds later problem, but not the shaky idle problem....
When I say "matching numbers" I mean that unless you have the exact same ECU, they don't want to mess with it.
So if you are getting a 97 SE MT ECU, they want to know that you have a 97 MT ECU you are replacing, by checking the numbers on top of the ECU.....
So if you are going from Auto to MT, then you can't match numbers...unless you steal the numbers off a buddy's ECU or something.
-Ben
05-23-2003, 10:20 AM
#30
So I got lucky when ordering the $65 SE ECU just now. I went and asked for the guy who replied to my email and told him that I wanted to place an order for the ECU mentioned in my email. Then he started randomly calling out numbers and asked me if that was correct. I hesitated for a second and was like "Yea.....that's it." hoping he wasn't making up some random numbers, so I was like "SE, right?" and he was like "Yea." Then we finished placing the order with my credit card. I truly thought he was gonna go into the whole matching numbers thing, but I tried to just get him the money asap before he decided to not sell it. So, I guess if you guys try to get an ECU, you could play dumb like I did.
-Ben
-Ben
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