Dasyce

iTrader: (3)

I need your help, my brother has a ’98 with 24k miles and he’s been telling me that his caliper is constantly sticking in the rear.. is this common, or does this only occur in even the least number of maxima’s, he went to some local mechanic and this was confirmed by the mechanic.
What should I look for? And should I have the caliper replaced?
Thanks in Advance!

95_SE_5spd

before you replace the caliper, check the guide pins to see if they are clean and lubed. i usually lube my with anti-seize. if they seem pretty fluid in movement, check to see if you can compress the piston, if you can't i'd have to say you need a new caliper

1FSTMAX

iTrader: (29)

Why don't you rebuild the caliper? It's not that hard, just replace all the seals and crap.

n2oMike

My driver's side rear caliper is sticking a bit. It hasn't been enough to cause any 'real' problems yet, but it needs taken care of. New ones cost BIG BUCKS!

I don't see any obvious 'guide pins'. The caliper just consists of the piston on one side, and the pad holder on the other.

The Haynes manual doesn't have any directions for disassembly, and with the price of new ones being up over $100, I don't really want to tear it up.

Anyone have any experience with these rear calipers? The parking brake setup looks like it might be a PITA. Mine is a 1998 model.

Thanks!

StygianMax

iTrader: (8)

Also check the boots around the e-brake to make sure they're not torn. These are the boots right by the rear wheels. You should be able to do a quick visual inspection on them. If either is torn, dirty will get in and could seize up the caliper on that side.

on_alert

I just put on a rear caliper.
70 bucks is big bucks???

n2oMike

My local auto parts store wanted $119 +core. I'll check some other places.

time2reup

http://www.rockauto.com/

about 100 bucks loaded here...I just replaced mine for about the same cost...the pads that come in the cardone remanufactured dust pretty bad though...but it was four bolts on each side and bleed the brakes...took me about an hour...

bananamax

Personally, I would rebuild it myself, but if you want a new one, try www.carparts.com. New, resonable prices, and great shipping records.

n2oMike

Last caliper I purchased was around $20 (it was not an import) so $119 sounded pretty extreme. I would like to hear from anyone who has had one of these rear units apart. I would hate to get it apart, only to have to buy a new one. I don't have much experience with 'newer' and import brakes. I'm unsure about calipers with parking brakes and 'screw-in' pistons. Give me an old 60's ford wheel cylinder (which I'm familiar with) and no problem!

Any pointers from someone who's had one apart? I'm sure it's just a little grit, or maybe a little corrosion. It probably just needs cleaned an honed out a little. I'd rather learn from YOUR mistakes.

Thanks!

time2reup

I am pretty sure that almost any one that you buy will be remanufactured...vs new....but I can tell you that there have been several people discussing this problem recently....as far as the e brake its just a cable that hooks onto the calipers...no problem there...and the pistons have to be twisted back in vs manually with a c-clamp...you can use needle nose or they have a tool at advance...

dave harms

Hey,
I've got a 95. The rear caliper assy is very easy to dissassemble. just make sure you bleed your breaks good. They do have a guide, and it needs to be 'perfect'. I just put new ones on my car... sometimes they stick a hint in the morning after it rains, but very rarely. Just take them off and clean them. There's not much to it, just some time. Make sure you have good grease on after you clean it and you're set. If it still sticks, then the problem is more serious.
Good luck!