Maxima98SE

iTrader: (1)

Alright so I bought a 98 Maxima SE Automatic with 124,370 on the clock at purchase.. right off the bat It needed a new brake hardware kit up front and new pads, these pads were replaced with Semi-Metallic pads.

After I got the brakes done; I got the car home and
*Changed the fuel filter to a 300ZX style
*Changed the PCV Valve
*Dropped in x6 NGK Laser Platinum Plugs
*Drained/Refilled ATF and Replaced Gasket/Trans Filter
*Oil Changes are made every 3K habitually.. Im using Castrol Full Synthetic 10W-30 and or Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 10W-30
*Installed a Short Ram Intake
*Tire Pressure is kept at Factory Standards 32PSI/29PSI
*Cleaned Throttle Body/IACV and Replaced Gaskets
*Alignment was done early April 2008
*Car idles at normal temperature at ~500/600RPM

The clock is reading 130,8xx now and I am basically averaging 300 miles to a full tank of 91-93 Octane. When I did calculations on the previous two tanks I had gotten 19MPG. I am wondering if this would be considered normal for a straight city machine with little to no highway driving.

Only problems I seem to have now is a code for the; Evap Vent Control Valve,Small Evap Leak (P1448) and a severely corroded muffler (Layers are peeling away from main structure of muffler, and car smells rich when standing behind it. Also, my brakes squeal when they are lightly applied at full pressure they are quiet.

I would like to know how to check for properly functioning injectors and if there is a way to check for frozen calipers.. Search didn't fetch me anything maybe I just didn't word it right


Sorry for making this so long.. but I figured I better give all the info

WhiteA32

iTrader: (20)

To check for frozen calipers go on to a steep hill and put it in nuetral and jack up the ebrake, it you roll back ebrake is dead. If not your fine.

Another way is jack up the rear end, crank the ebrake, and spin the wheels

Maxima98SE

iTrader: (1)

Alright, thanks.. I will have to jack it up and check this out, once this terrential downpour of rain stops in my area. Just jack it from the rear beam there, or is there a designated spot. Im guessing if the wheels spin the calipers are frozen when car is in N with Ebrake applied? How would I check the action on the front calipers?

Anything else I can possibly look over that maybe I haven't gotten too yet.. having a helluva time finding the Evap Vent Control Valve that attaches to the canister which is throwing that P1448.

Exhaust also smells quite rich when outside the car, muffler show signs of obvious age. Flex Section on the Y-Pipe is starting to splinter, and everything has a rustic look to it. I know I should get some exhaust work done, but I don't think I can afford a Y-Pipe and custom work from the local shop to complete the system at the moment. Car Payments

VANGtastic97

iTrader: (8)

Here's the correct way to check for frozen calipers!

For rears: Put car in P and jack rear end. (E-brake OFF) If the wheel spins freely then you're fine.

For fronts: Put car in NEUTRAL with the E-brake ON! Jack the front end and spin the wheels.

After I changed my rears, the pads would touch the rotors somewhat, but didn't lock up like before.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

^^Just so u know the pads are always touching the rotors, there is just no pressure applied to them so they dont slow down the car

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Put the stock intake back on and your MPG and throttle response will get better. Auto tranny 4th gens just don't gain anyting from a/m intakes. They actually hurt throttle response especially when it's hot.

ypl102

I did exactly as you describe and I replaced the front left caliper because it froze up; however because the right side is unchanged, it now locks the wheel when I applied the brake pedal lightly with the front end jacked up. as this happens, the left side (rebuilt side) spins even faster so as to compensate the speed. I take it both sides are uneven so I'm changing the right side too. What do yall think?

ruckus1027

iTrader: (3)

yeah its always recommended to change both sides...

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

First of all you need to inspect or determine if it's a frozen/sticking piston or sticking guide pins! The inboard pad will be worn more if it's a sticking piston, where as the outboard pad will be worn if it's sticking guide pins! The guide pins should slide easily with hand pressure with the calipers removed! You can press the piston back in with a C clamp even if it's slightly sticking...the truth is how the inner pad is worn more than the outer! A Caliper seal kit and some cleaning will usually fix this, but some folks prefer a rebuilt caliper.....