spitty

Hey guys. My KYB GR2s arrived yesterday and I was planning to do the install on my '97 SE 5 spd myself instead of paying someone over $350 to do it for me. In addition to the 4 struts, I will also be replacing the boots and any of the mounts/bushings that are worn-out. I have the manuals and the tools, but lack the experience in doing this type of job. I was wondering if anyone had any tricks, tips, advice or pitfalls to avoid in doing this job that can't be found in the Service Manual or a Haynes manual. Basically, for anyone who has done this, what headaches did you give yourself that you could have avoided, that you can help me avoid? I might have someone helping me that has a lot experience working on cars, but I know there are a lot of you guys that have done this job and have the experience with Maximas.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Tips on the front:
First off you have to have booth front wheels off the groud to get the struts out. Make sure the word OUT stamped on the upper spring perch is facing out and is in line with the lower strut mounting flange. Make sure the spring is clocked correctly. Remove all the rubber components, clean them and seat them on the spring before you seat the spring onto the strut. You can regrease the grey strut bearing by opening it up with a small screw driver. Apply some grease inside and snap it back together. Watch closely and reassemble it exactly how it came apart, the job is actually very easy to do. Make sure you use a good spring compressor. You can loosen up the strut nut before you take it out of the car. It's much easier to break it loose while the assembly is bolted in the car. DO NOT REMOVE THAT NUT UNTIL THE SPRING IS COMPRESSED!!

Tips for the rear:
To get at the top mount, just pull back the trunk lining on the back of the rear seat. You'll see the upper mounts in each corner. If you have an SE, you don't need to compress the spring to get it apart. Save yourself some time. You can get it back together if a friend helps you by pushing down on the assembly so you can catch the top nut. Line up the two top mount studs with the lower shock mount bolt hole as you put it back together. Use an adjustable wrench to hold the top nub of the shock while you loosen or tighten the top nut.

Do not damage the pistons by using any tools on them. Do not scratch the pistons either.


Tools needed:
19mm 6 point 1/2" drive socket
17mm 6 point 1/2" drive socket
1/2" drive BIG BREAKER BAR
17mm wrench
14mm socket
12mm socket
10mm socket
Adjustable wrench
Spring compressor
2 jack stands
A friend
1 case of beer

Good luck with your install, take your time it's easy to do.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

You forgot PB Blaster and of course a jack.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Ooops.

spitty

Thanks njmaxseltd, this is great. Like I said I have the tools, isn't the case of beer the most useful, or is it the socket set!?

Any advice on types of spring compressors to avoid? I have heard that the 2 piece ones are suicide. I was planning on renting one from Autozone...

Also, when you say to make sure the spring is clocked correctly, I assume you mean to turn it to the correct position. Is there a way to tell what the position is through markings on the spring? Or does it just fit into a slot or something?

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Spring clocking is most important on the upper spring perch. The word OUT must face out. You can't really clock it wrong on the strut, there's a nub it sits up on. Basically you sit the spring on the strut correctly, then put the rubber part on the top of the spring, then put the upper mount down over that with the work OUT facing you, in line with the lower strut flange. Make it all face you.

ticcoqualla

I've tried changing my right front strut a few days ago. It was going well until I had to place the strut back into place. For the life of me, I could not get the *%&% thing to go back into place. The strut assembly was too long, and it would not line up with the two bottom bolts. After 2 hours of wrestling with it, I let a professional do it for me. Any ideas?

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

IIRC, I used a hydraulic jack to help things line up correctly, then installed the bolts.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

jack up the whole front end so you dont fight the sway bar.

ticcoqualla

I only removed one wheel when I was trying to get the strut back into position. And like I posted earlier, It would not fit back into place. Would both wheels have to be removed to get the strut back into place? I wish I had found this website before I started working on my struts.

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

You should have removed the wheels and put the car on jack stands; that's how I did mine. Once the entire front end was lifted, I took it one side at a time.

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Awsome post !!!! I just edited it out the blah blah, cause it's already up top.

adamsanders

iTrader: (12)

I would definitely recommend some air tools for this job. I was attempting to do this job on my 96 I30 about a month ago and could not get the lower two bolts off for the life of me. After a can of PB Blaster and two sockets (just on driver's side!) I decided to let a pro do it (only 285 for all four struts). Hope this helps in preparation!

Curt Deiner

iTrader: (1)

The front strut top studs look like they're evenly spaced, but they aren't so make sure you have it rotated correctly to align with the holes in the chassis before trying to install. I think there's a letter stamped on the strut bearing.

NR_MAX

Thank you! VERY helpful!

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

On the rear make sure you don't have the jack under the swivel arm. I did my rears a few years ago for the first time and jacked it up wrong. Couldn't figure out why the bottom bolt holding the strut to the swivel arm was hard to come out. 7 stitches later I figured out why.

VANGtastic97

iTrader: (8)

Very important step! I did the same thing and stripped the bolt. You must jack the car from the rear, put both sides on jack stands, then remove the jack.

For the newbie, you need to compress the springs, bolt on the strut mounts, remove spring compressors, then install the new shock assembly. (don't bolt the strut mounts on the car first)