there is a procedure under the faq's that you turn a screw on the ecu with a screw driver to reset it...



so what do you think guys, is this worth it? i know you all want a test monkey but i'm really debating whether or not to go ahead right now. i can either do this and hope for the best or i can lower my 4x4. i'm just nervous that i'll be spending a decent amount of $$ on just a few hp.

 

How about we just wait for the dynos before saying anything? I know i dont know **** about performance but still gota give chance to someone who is trying to get something done for our cars ;-)

 

Personally, I wouldn't even bother making another run on the dyno until the next week and let the ECU completely adjust. I know others will disagree with me, but when I make any sort of intake/exhaust modification, it takes a few days for the ECU to learn. DO NOT reset the ECU. My experience is that the VQ is significantly slower after resetting the ECU because the computer has reverted back to baseline tuning and takes a while to adjust.

As for problems with install, the front manifold looks like cake to me. I'd say that can be done in about 30 minutes. It's the rear that's a biatch. Look under a 4th gen and you'll see what I'm talking about. Honestly, I don't even see how you can get to some of the nuts (some have done it though). I've actually reached up there to feel around and there's no room. Problem areas include a close proximity of head to the firewall, the engine cradle, engine mount, steering rack, and the heatshielding on the manifold it self. I'd say 6 hours of pain and bloodshed to do the rear manifold. Someone should contact Emax because he's done this on his old I30.

God have mercy if you happen to break off a manifold stud. You'll have to remove the head or remove all the mounts and lift the motor up because there's no other way to get old stud out.


Dave

 

Dave,

First, thanks for the info.

Does the use air-powered tools (Pro shop) helps with the rear header removal install?

Nashua.

 

Hopefully these headers will make good power instead of the others that we have seen.

 

Hrm Doesnt seem worth it to me. Lets see the Dyno!!!

 

Id be interested in seeing how much these things would add to an existing aftermarket exhaust and intake system.

I'm also aware of the fact that shortys dont do too much. Many guys with Chevy vortecs report big gains from long tube headers but little if anything from shortys and many people avoid them.

Of course the Nissan V6 isnt a Chevy Vortec so who knows.

 

yeah how much different are these compared to the ones EMAX installed? I dont think his did to much.

 

Since there is no search, what headers Emax installed on his?

 

If you want to search, click on the giant Red letters on the top of the forum

 

Nashua - Check your PM's

 

ooooooo my car is stock, lets test it on mines, I want to be a tester!!! In Chicago

 

can't wait to see dyno's!!

 

I do not believe that the ECU adjustment theory holds any water. The ECU runs preprogrammed fuel and timing curves at WOT.

However to negate all doubt. You should disconnect the ECU prior to the initial baseline dyno, dyno the car, and then disconnect it again on teh "header" dyno. This way you will ensure that if its somehow true that the ECU "learns" and makes more power (which I believe is untrue) both runs will have been done on a "green" ECU which has had no learning time for either the before or after runs.

 

DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO DYNO



and NEAL CHANGE YOUR SIG!!!

 

Excellent points made by Neal... I would do the following:

1. drive into shop and dyno with stock headers
2. reset ECU and dyno with stock headers
3. install new headers, reset ECU and dyno
4. drive around for a while and dyno again with new headers

5. a week later, if the weather conditions are similar, go back to the same dyno and dyno with the new headers again

That should give a good idea of how the headers are.

Secondly, if you are looking for a 1995 SE 5-spd with a few mods and MEVI... contact me! (look at my sig for mods)

 

I disagree, but that's

Here's my reasoning. Go drive your car aggressively and take a hard listen to the intake sound and pull in 2nd gear. Pull over and completely reset your ECU. Punch it in 2nd gear and tell me if the intake noise is far more subdued and the pull of the motor isn't a little lethargic. I think the motor is running very rich at WOT. I completely understand that Nissan does us a set A/F ratio for WOT, but that doesn't take into consideration that the knock sensor isn't learning what motor is running like and adjusting the timing and A/F accordingly. I think the ECU does indeed learn, even at WOT. I think the ECU takes into consideration the readings of knock sensor and progressively (a few days, 20-30 cycles) advances timing and A/F to the most aggressive setting available. I know GM and Ford do this.


Dave

 

I dyno'd 2 ecus within 5 minutes of eachother. One my stock 96 ECU and one a stock 98 ECU. My 96 had been in my car forever. The dynos were within 2 hp and 2 tq of eachother. One ECU was totally learned and one was fresh to my car. I did 2 pulls with each ECU.


Anyhow thats neither here nor there. This ECU learning thing can be negated by making both ECUs "green" and dynoing that way.

 

Nealoc makes a good point! He does have test results to prove it to, If it should be any body to test it, it should be him,

 

If shorty headers don't give much gains on LT1 Chevy engines and almost nothing on LS1 engines, what makes you guys think they will do much for an award winning 3.0L V6? They are already pretty efficient and I don't think much is going to change.

 

Well the CL/TL guys make some pretty massive gains with their headers (20-25fwhp). Of course, we make about 15fwhp with just our Y-pipe.

It's the rear header that really scares me. Access might be a bit easier if you remove the upper intake manifold.


Dave

 

*Imporant*

I don't see an EGR hook up for the rear manifold on these headers. At least I think it's the EGR hook up because their is a 1/2" pipe coming out of the exhaust manifold and appears to make it's way up to the intake manifold. Are you just going to plug up the EGR?


Dave

 

We have to see about the EGR while test fitting.

Thanks for the notice.

 

I would like to give you props for trying to bring the Maxima another aftermaket product....

 

these were on ebay i was about to win and then some A Hole retracted the bid. thanks

 

off topic if only that worked

on topic.. umm.. yeah, somebody get these and dyno

 

hmm.. I'd rather just get all of us to bug Bomz about making VQ30 headers. I know they sell them with the downpipe for $175 wholesale... one bank for the 4-bangers... so for a 6cyl would probably run around $350 wholesale... and maybe they'd be around 5fwhp to 7fwhp gain.

here's what those look like:



those aren't shorty headers though... that's why them ricers get huge gains

 

OK

 

 

Craig, there's no point in arguing about this on here. Let's just wait for the dynos, and see what people are able to put down. There could be fitment issues that negate this entire thread until they're fixed. So let's wait, stop bickering, and see what happens.

Justin

 

search on test.maxima.org won't find any threads post ~2001... so basically, it's not so helpful being that it's now 2003.. there are some good old threads that you can find.. but yeah, not so much

wJ

maybe this is just me, but i don't think so.. it's been posted in the feedback on test.maxima.org but no mods said anything about it.. anyway, just my little pet peeve, sorry to ***** up the thread

 

k

 

search feature works for me with no restrictions.

 

Sure...sure. For moderators, everything works.

Sorry to continue the whoring on your thread, but searching doesn't work for me either...search for exedy, and see what comes up. 3 hits?

 

i know im not saying anything new, but for christ sake where are the dynos?!

 

For Christ's sake! It's been < 60 hours since the original post! You want **** done fast, don't ya!

 

these are the same people that threaten to sue people for fraud on eBay after they haven't gotten their stuff within 2 weeks.

I have spoken with God and He has told me that the dynos and other data will be in sometime around a few weeks from now. Patience my children.

Thank you.

 

 

 

That's what I was going to ask. I've been wondering if there would be any upside to plugging the EGR system.

As for install...I'd figure its a 12 hours job for a DIY'er. I would think the easiest way would be to remove the axles, get a hoist, drop the crossmember and lower the engine and transmission (together) as much as you can.

Would be easy with the engine out of the car though.