anyone changed control arm bushings 2 ploy or try like me but broke :(

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Sep 1, 2003 | 02:42 PM
  #1  
ok i tried 2 install ploy control arm bushings.on my 96 max se 5 speed. 153,300 miles they are a b i t c h 2 change. i got one bushing out (rear one) the front one with the big blot on it is a ***** 2 get out. got out all the rubber but thier a this thin metal sleeve in their still.(thick metal around it that i can't cut cause it part of the arm). no way in hell its gonna come out now. now i need a new control arm. pass side. and then after all of that i striped a bolt going in wtf. i was having no lucky. now i can't drive my car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-anyone change these bushing????? cause i still wanna do it (or pay some one 2 do it).
-first i need a control arm how much u think u guys think its gonna be for a used one from the junk yard????
-anyone know what size bolt it is (one of the rear one) need new blot and retap the hole sizes?????


PS: don't try do do this your self!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ploy bushings
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Sep 1, 2003 | 04:55 PM
  #2  
When I looked at the front bushings, I thought they were in good condition and probably difficult to remove so I left them. The rear one was in bad shape--the metal layers were all rusted out and brittle. In any case, I faced the same problem with the rear as you do with the front. Just covering the control arm pivot rod the bushing has a metal sleeve. The thing was basically frozen to the rod. I had to use a cut-off wheel to VERY carefully cut the metal sleeve right down the middle, then used a flat head screwdriver to pry open the slit and it came out easily. Of course with the sparks flying, I couldn't exactly see what I was doing and did go a little deep, cutting the rod a little. I then used a grinder to deburr.

The worst part for me was the fact that the ball joint nut would not budge so I had to do all this while under the car.

If you've gotten as far as you did, I'd just try the cut-off wheel method before resorting to a new control arm. BTW, I did the bushing out of necessity (noise from rear bushing) rather than performance reasons.
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Sep 1, 2003 | 09:18 PM
  #3  
Quote: When I looked at the front bushings, I thought they were in good condition and probably difficult to remove so I left them. The rear one was in bad shape--the metal layers were all rusted out and brittle. In any case, I faced the same problem with the rear as you do with the front. Just covering the control arm pivot rod the bushing has a metal sleeve. The thing was basically frozen to the rod. I had to use a cut-off wheel to VERY carefully cut the metal sleeve right down the middle, then used a flat head screwdriver to pry open the slit and it came out easily. Of course with the sparks flying, I couldn't exactly see what I was doing and did go a little deep, cutting the rod a little. I then used a grinder to deburr.

The worst part for me was the fact that the ball joint nut would not budge so I had to do all this while under the car.

If you've gotten as far as you did, I'd just try the cut-off wheel method before resorting to a new control arm. BTW, I did the bushing out of necessity (noise from rear bushing) rather than performance reasons.

just wanted to see how everybody installed b/c i will be doing this soon
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Sep 2, 2003 | 05:50 AM
  #4  
Quote: just wanted to see how everybody installed b/c i will be doing this soon
don't do it man its a *****!!!!
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