Okay the problem is my Max won't start. Worked fine the day prior. The engine cranks but won't catch. It is still under warranty but I am still impatient to find the cause for the condition. Never touched any of the electronic or ignition parts so I hope there is nothing too involved...maybe a bad coil on the ignition wire or something like that. Maybe someone may know of a similar incidence. It is so depressing to see my Max carted off on the wrecker ... sigh. :'(

 

Your '99 Maxima has no spark plug wires, so they are not at fault. The engine has six ignition coils (one for each cylinder) so one bad coil won't prevent it from starting. Many ignition problems will cause the Malfunction Indicator Light (a/ka/a Check Engine Light, Service Engine Soon light) to go on. Your MIL didn't go on.

Your engine cranks at normal speed with normal sound, yet it won't fire. No Vroom! No Malfunction Indicator Light. The spotlight of suspicion falls on fuel supply.

1) Add one gallon of fuel to the fuel tank. Do this even if the fuel gauge indicates there is enough fuel. Fuel gauges have been known to lie.

2) Check the fuel pump fuses. They are fuse #17 (10 amps) and fuse #32 (15 amps). These fuses are located in the passenger cabin fuse block, hidden behind a pullout panel in the lower dashboard, left of the steering column. In the '99 Maxima the passenger cabin fuse block has three columns of fuses.
The left-most column contains fuses 1 - 11, numbered from bottom to top.
The middle column contains fuses 12 - 26, numbered from bottom to top.
The right-most column contains fuses 27 - 40, numbered from bottom to top.

The numbers are molded into the plastic fuse block. They are not easy to
read. A flashlight will be helpful.

3) Buy a can of starting fluid. This is a spray can of ether or equivalent.
You can get it at any auto parts store or K-mart or Wal*Mart for about
US$2. Spray a ten-second blast into the engine air intake. The starting
fluid serves as a short-term substitute for gasoline. Crank to start. If
the engine starts readily, runs for two seconds, and then "dies" you have a
fuel problem.

4) Check the fuel pump relay. This relay is located behind the plastic kick panel to the left of the driver's feet. It is a type 1M relay and is blue in color. The easiest way to check it is to swap it with any of the blue relays found in the relay boxes under the hood.

5) Check the fuel pressure.
This is a standard diagnostic test. You will find instructions and a diagram or picture in Chilton (page 5-3) and Haynes (page 4-3,4). Bleed the fuel rail pressure by pulling the fuel pump fuse and making several attempts to start the engine (it won't start). Install a T-fitting with a pressure gauge in the flexible rubber fuel line just downstream of the fuel filter. Install the fuel pump fuse. Start the engine. You should see the pressure maintain a stable 34 psi.

 

Daniel,

I appreciate all the worth while advice you offer but unfortunately the problem was something completely off the charts. The ignition key lost the program to the chip encased inside. The key was reprogrammed at no charge and worked fine. The dealer (Mossy Nissan, Oceanside) was very helpful and even paid for the towing without hesitation. I knew it waas warranty type work but they went the extra mile to put me at ease. Thanks again and thanks to Mark and Vince ...I think that was the two service advisors.

 

We hear so many complaints about inept dealer service departments. It's nice to hear a good story for a change.

If it were my car, here are some questions I'd put to Mark and Vince.

Was the fault in the key or the in-car portion of the Nissan Vehicle Immobilizer System?

If you just reprogrammed the key (and did not replace any parts) what will prevent a recurrence?

If the problem was only in the key why don't you give me a brand new key to replace this troublesome key?

If this failure does recur, is there a workaround so I won't be stranded? Should I carry my spare key inside the car at all times?