All motor Maximas?
#1
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All motor Maximas?
I have always felt that racing all motor gives me some kind of pleasure.
Anyone out there feel the same way? I want to build my motor strong with more than just bolt ons, has anyone done any major engine work?
I know some gearheads have to be out there, the N/A bragging rights start here!
Anyone out there feel the same way? I want to build my motor strong with more than just bolt ons, has anyone done any major engine work?
I know some gearheads have to be out there, the N/A bragging rights start here!
#2
There is just not enough aftermarket support for us to do something like that. If you are going to do an all motor car it is probally not going to be street driven. Also parts for our car are going to have to be custom made. I recently in an all motor CRX that does 11's in the quarter.
#3
I'm sure there's some out there somewhere that have built an all motor maxima. To my knowledge on this board the only people who have done internal/valvetrain work on their cars are F/I people.
I nominate you to be the first to do it so I know what to expect if I decide to go that route
I nominate you to be the first to do it so I know what to expect if I decide to go that route
#5
Originally Posted by kenji
I have always felt that racing all motor gives me some kind of pleasure.
Anyone out there feel the same way?
Anyone out there feel the same way?
i also cant justify spending upwards of 3k for f/i if im not going to be the fastest sob ever(id die if i spent that money and then got stomped on)
i know nos is much cheaper, but no offense i dont really consider it "legitamant" power. MY OPINION.
MORE POWER TO YOU IF YOU LIKE IT
#8
A hot all motor setup would be a 11.0cr VQ35DE, with cams, valve springs, Ti retainers, 350Z intake manifold, headers, headwork, UDP, full exhaust. This motor should make around 290-330whp depending on camshaft grind and tuning while reving to a 7000-7500rpm easy.
Originally Posted by kenji
I have always felt that racing all motor gives me some kind of pleasure.
Anyone out there feel the same way? I want to build my motor strong with more than just bolt ons, has anyone done any major engine work?
I know some gearheads have to be out there, the N/A bragging rights start here!
Anyone out there feel the same way? I want to build my motor strong with more than just bolt ons, has anyone done any major engine work?
I know some gearheads have to be out there, the N/A bragging rights start here!
#9
Originally Posted by Nismo87SE
A hot all motor setup would be a 11.0cr VQ35DE, with cams, valve springs, Ti retainers, 350Z intake manifold, headers, headwork, UDP, full exhaust. This motor should make around 290-330whp depending on camshaft grind and tuning while reving to a 7000-7500rpm easy.
#10
Originally Posted by spanishrice
They have gotten all motor 300 hp Z cars in Japan with all the bolt ons not even internal work.
Dang. So no internal work means about 60-80 hp just from intake, exhaust, flywheel and udp? And extended redline too, I guess.
#11
http://maxima.cardomain.com/member_p...=182969&page=7
you mean like this guy minus the FI? i never did hear the results of that engine...so hot tho....
you mean like this guy minus the FI? i never did hear the results of that engine...so hot tho....
#12
http://maxima.cardomain.com/member_p...=182969&page=7
like this?
-FI?
i want that engine so bad..so sexy..so much power.
like this?
-FI?
i want that engine so bad..so sexy..so much power.
#14
Originally Posted by Torgus
http://maxima.cardomain.com/member_p...=182969&page=7
like this?
-FI?
i want that engine so bad..so sexy..so much power.
like this?
-FI?
i want that engine so bad..so sexy..so much power.
#15
Originally Posted by Torgus
http://maxima.cardomain.com/member_p...=182969&page=7
you mean like this guy minus the FI? i never did hear the results of that engine...so hot tho....
you mean like this guy minus the FI? i never did hear the results of that engine...so hot tho....
That's my buddy Ferhans car. Hes here on the org under Furbiss112. He's not done with it last contact I had with him which was like 3 weeks ago.
nealoc, you ran a 13.6 without f/i Thats pretty fast. What else do you have done to your engine?
EDIT: Correction, at the time I ran the 13.6s I didn't have the catback I was still using stock exhaust. That was back on April 5th when I ran 13.6s.
#16
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
And pass emissions? And have some decent lowend power?? Good luck
Digging into the VQ to make it stronger is pointless. The motor is very stout and can take serious power so reliability is not an issue. Porting the heads, port matching the intake manifold, etc are good things, but don't expect anymore than 10fwhp at best. Nissan did a pretty good job with reducing restriction in the this.
This would be as far I'd go with a street driven NA Maxima:
1) MEVI, slight loss in torque, but huge gains above 5500rpms ($600)
2) JWT ECU with 7500rpm rev-limiter ($550), gains in power everywhere
3) JWT valve springs and install ($800?), to compensate for the high rev limiter
4) Cattman headers ($750). It appears that these headers increase midrange power a bit better than just a y-pipe.
5) UDP ($240). Simple mod, gives 3-5fwhp/tq
6) Intake (whatever you want, $90-250), 3-7fwhp
7) Exhaust (whatever you want and how loud you're willing to go, $200-400) 3-7fwhp
8) Extrude hone the intake manifold ($500). Peak power isn't really increased,. but dyno data suggest 7-9fwhp in the midrange which is always a good thing
The big "if" mod:
1) JWT cams ($1500 for cams and install). The word is these cams gain 15+fwhp, BUT at the expense of lowend power. If the drop in lowend power is significant from 4000-5000rpms, this mod may not make the Maxima quicker in the 1/4 mile.
With items 1-8, I'd think ~200-205fwhp and 195-200fwtq is attainable. On slicks this Maxima could possibly grab 13.5-13.6s@101-103mph. On street tires, 13.8-14.0@101+mph. If the cams don't kill lowend too much, you might be able to squeeze out 13.3-13.4@104mph.
Probably the ultimate setup would be doing what Mardigras is doing by swapping the 3.0 VQ heads, valvetrain, etc onto the 3.5 VQ block. The increase in power would be substainal and I'd think 12s could be possible with a gutted Maxima running slicks and skinnies in the back. The extra torque means everything in the 1/4 mile. The only issue is cost. Who is willing to spend $1000-1500 on a 3.5 VQ and then invest is the swap over and all the headaches that come with the swap. It's not easy and from I've read, not everything is a direct swap or bolt-on. Some fabbing is needed.
Dave
#19
yea you can get bragging rights and stuff...and its nice to have a beefy block with some big valves, etc... but if u can make more power easier with FI (possibly cheaper than building a race engine) why not?
#20
I was planning on doing Furhans setup with my Max, but with Low Compresion rings instead, plus add a mevi, and a good exhuast system, and with a Turbo with a lot of psi, and u got your self the fastest Maxima Ever!!!
#21
Originally Posted by Torgus
http://maxima.cardomain.com/member_p...=182969&page=7
like this?
-FI?
i want that engine so bad..so sexy..so much power.
like this?
-FI?
i want that engine so bad..so sexy..so much power.
Not to go off topic here, but that car on page 8 is friggin awsome looking!
#23
Originally Posted by BEJAY1
I'm dynoing within a few weeks and we'll see if you're being too conservative...
Dave
#24
Originally Posted by Dave B
I'll be curious to see it too. I looked at you Car Domain site and I found it a bit strange that your 4th gen is putting out significantly more torque than any other NA 4th gen yet your 1/4 mile isn't terribly strong (14.8@92-93mph). Granted you were running 10% shorter than stock tires, but your car still should have been significantly quicker and much faster in the 1/4 mile with all that power. I would have thought with all that extra torque (15fwtq more than any other NA 4th gen), you'd be running easy 14.4s especially at Bryon. I'd think doing some 1/4 mile passes on stock height tires would reveal the gains better than the dyno. The ET doesn't have to be good either because we can figure out how powerful your car is from the trap speed which I'd guess should be around 97-98mph with the power you're making right now.
Dave
Dave
#25
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Originally Posted by BEJAY1
If I can make it to Byron this weekend I'll let Neal take a run and see if it's maybe me that's the problem
He pulled a 14.9 then I pulled a 14.8. I think him sitting in my car gave it specail powers
#26
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
I let him drive my car once when I couldn't break into the 14's............let's just say I was not the 1st person to run 14's in my car
He pulled a 14.9 then I pulled a 14.8. I think him sitting in my car gave it specail powers
He pulled a 14.9 then I pulled a 14.8. I think him sitting in my car gave it specail powers
#28
Originally Posted by Dave B
Exactly.
Digging into the VQ to make it stronger is pointless. The motor is very stout and can take serious power so reliability is not an issue. Porting the heads, port matching the intake manifold, etc are good things, but don't expect anymore than 10fwhp at best. Nissan did a pretty good job with reducing restriction in the this.
This would be as far I'd go with a street driven NA Maxima:
1) MEVI, slight loss in torque, but huge gains above 5500rpms ($600)
2) JWT ECU with 7500rpm rev-limiter ($550), gains in power everywhere
3) JWT valve springs and install ($800?), to compensate for the high rev limiter
4) Cattman headers ($750). It appears that these headers increase midrange power a bit better than just a y-pipe.
5) UDP ($240). Simple mod, gives 3-5fwhp/tq
6) Intake (whatever you want, $90-250), 3-7fwhp
7) Exhaust (whatever you want and how loud you're willing to go, $200-400) 3-7fwhp
8) Extrude hone the intake manifold ($500). Peak power isn't really increased,. but dyno data suggest 7-9fwhp in the midrange which is always a good thing
The big "if" mod:
1) JWT cams ($1500 for cams and install). The word is these cams gain 15+fwhp, BUT at the expense of lowend power. If the drop in lowend power is significant from 4000-5000rpms, this mod may not make the Maxima quicker in the 1/4 mile.
With items 1-8, I'd think ~200-205fwhp and 195-200fwtq is attainable. On slicks this Maxima could possibly grab 13.5-13.6s@101-103mph. On street tires, 13.8-14.0@101+mph. If the cams don't kill lowend too much, you might be able to squeeze out 13.3-13.4@104mph.
Probably the ultimate setup would be doing what Mardigras is doing by swapping the 3.0 VQ heads, valvetrain, etc onto the 3.5 VQ block. The increase in power would be substainal and I'd think 12s could be possible with a gutted Maxima running slicks and skinnies in the back. The extra torque means everything in the 1/4 mile. The only issue is cost. Who is willing to spend $1000-1500 on a 3.5 VQ and then invest is the swap over and all the headaches that come with the swap. It's not easy and from I've read, not everything is a direct swap or bolt-on. Some fabbing is needed.
Dave
Digging into the VQ to make it stronger is pointless. The motor is very stout and can take serious power so reliability is not an issue. Porting the heads, port matching the intake manifold, etc are good things, but don't expect anymore than 10fwhp at best. Nissan did a pretty good job with reducing restriction in the this.
This would be as far I'd go with a street driven NA Maxima:
1) MEVI, slight loss in torque, but huge gains above 5500rpms ($600)
2) JWT ECU with 7500rpm rev-limiter ($550), gains in power everywhere
3) JWT valve springs and install ($800?), to compensate for the high rev limiter
4) Cattman headers ($750). It appears that these headers increase midrange power a bit better than just a y-pipe.
5) UDP ($240). Simple mod, gives 3-5fwhp/tq
6) Intake (whatever you want, $90-250), 3-7fwhp
7) Exhaust (whatever you want and how loud you're willing to go, $200-400) 3-7fwhp
8) Extrude hone the intake manifold ($500). Peak power isn't really increased,. but dyno data suggest 7-9fwhp in the midrange which is always a good thing
The big "if" mod:
1) JWT cams ($1500 for cams and install). The word is these cams gain 15+fwhp, BUT at the expense of lowend power. If the drop in lowend power is significant from 4000-5000rpms, this mod may not make the Maxima quicker in the 1/4 mile.
With items 1-8, I'd think ~200-205fwhp and 195-200fwtq is attainable. On slicks this Maxima could possibly grab 13.5-13.6s@101-103mph. On street tires, 13.8-14.0@101+mph. If the cams don't kill lowend too much, you might be able to squeeze out 13.3-13.4@104mph.
Probably the ultimate setup would be doing what Mardigras is doing by swapping the 3.0 VQ heads, valvetrain, etc onto the 3.5 VQ block. The increase in power would be substainal and I'd think 12s could be possible with a gutted Maxima running slicks and skinnies in the back. The extra torque means everything in the 1/4 mile. The only issue is cost. Who is willing to spend $1000-1500 on a 3.5 VQ and then invest is the swap over and all the headaches that come with the swap. It's not easy and from I've read, not everything is a direct swap or bolt-on. Some fabbing is needed.
Dave
#29
Originally Posted by sweetdaddy
Hey Nealoc 187,
Read the mods in your sig, but you make no mention of traction aiding diff like Quife or VLSD. How do you get the power to the ground?
Thanks,
SD
Read the mods in your sig, but you make no mention of traction aiding diff like Quife or VLSD. How do you get the power to the ground?
Thanks,
SD
#30
Originally Posted by sweetdaddy
Hey Nealoc 187,
Read the mods in your sig, but you make no mention of traction aiding diff like Quife or VLSD. How do you get the power to the ground?
Thanks,
SD
Read the mods in your sig, but you make no mention of traction aiding diff like Quife or VLSD. How do you get the power to the ground?
Thanks,
SD
Dave
#31
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Originally Posted by Dave B
He used slicks to get his 13.6. I believe he's done 13.9 on street tires. Contrary to popular belief, a limited slip differential won't do anything for the 1/4 mile. I really doubt a helical limited slip will do much good either. Seeing that our cars are heavier FWD platforms, much of the weight is over the tires and it's pretty rare to see a Maxima "peg-leg" (one wheel spin) off the line. HLSD and VLSD are more for turning traction, not straightline. Look at the 60' times for the HLSD Maxima's vs the non-LSD Maximas. There's no difference.
Dave
Dave
#32
Originally Posted by sweetdaddy
Hey Nealoc 187,
Read the mods in your sig, but you make no mention of traction aiding diff like Quife or VLSD. How do you get the power to the ground?
Thanks,
SD
Read the mods in your sig, but you make no mention of traction aiding diff like Quife or VLSD. How do you get the power to the ground?
Thanks,
SD
#33
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 735
Bump
Holy cow, I had no idea that anyone had responded to this post.. I knew you guys were out there.
Now that I have your attention, I'll tell you why I want to build the vq30de.
I've always been into building motors, especially imports that were quick at most beforehand. I'm somewhat new to this, and I'll be the first to admit, but I was wondering if anyone out there had built their motor. I know that 90% of major internals would have to be custom fabbed for a max, as to be expected. I was curious to see what kind of gains, if any - that someone has seen from doing this.. Does anyone know if there is improvement i/e to be seen from lightening/knife edging the crank for instance. I want to prove people wrong that hondas can be built better n/a than nissans without f/i, and most of all see for myself what our cars can really do. If a 4 banger can rev 8800, with oem internals, I would hope a built vq30de could rev to at least 77k on custom ones.
Also I know that weight is the most major factor of all, and I am waiting on a copy of Modified Magazine, which features a maxima with extensive weight reduction -thx speedemn. I believe that we can see some serious times N/A, and show these LSVTEC/TypeR/CRVTEC etc etc etc guys what's up.
Holy cow, I had no idea that anyone had responded to this post.. I knew you guys were out there.
Now that I have your attention, I'll tell you why I want to build the vq30de.
I've always been into building motors, especially imports that were quick at most beforehand. I'm somewhat new to this, and I'll be the first to admit, but I was wondering if anyone out there had built their motor. I know that 90% of major internals would have to be custom fabbed for a max, as to be expected. I was curious to see what kind of gains, if any - that someone has seen from doing this.. Does anyone know if there is improvement i/e to be seen from lightening/knife edging the crank for instance. I want to prove people wrong that hondas can be built better n/a than nissans without f/i, and most of all see for myself what our cars can really do. If a 4 banger can rev 8800, with oem internals, I would hope a built vq30de could rev to at least 77k on custom ones.
Also I know that weight is the most major factor of all, and I am waiting on a copy of Modified Magazine, which features a maxima with extensive weight reduction -thx speedemn. I believe that we can see some serious times N/A, and show these LSVTEC/TypeR/CRVTEC etc etc etc guys what's up.
#34
The only reason they rev so high is becuase they have Hig Compresion already, B-Series Motors are not ment to do turbo unless you spend a lot of money on them, SuperCHarger will be the best way to go with a Civic. Unless you got the all mighty H22A.
O Kenji The only way they can possibly get these low runs is if they spend lots of money modding there motor
O Kenji The only way they can possibly get these low runs is if they spend lots of money modding there motor
#35
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Originally Posted by Ni_Nos_Maxima
The only reason they rev so high is becuase they have Hig Compresion already, B-Series Motors are not ment to do turbo unless you spend a lot of money on them, SuperCHarger will be the best way to go with a Civic. Unless you got the all mighty H22A.
O Kenji The only way they can possibly get these low runs is if they spend lots of money modding there motor
O Kenji The only way they can possibly get these low runs is if they spend lots of money modding there motor
#37
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
Dang. So no internal work means about 60-80 hp just from intake, exhaust, flywheel and udp? And extended redline too, I guess.
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