CV Axle Replacement
#1
CV Axle Replacement
Hey All,
I've read alot about this and am now going to order parts to do this myself as I see that my boot has totally separated and I hear the clicking noise when I turn the wheel. Parts are relatively cheap for what kind of part it is and I hear that it's fairly easy to do. But my question here is that I see a bunch of axles designed for a slip or non-slip differential...how can I determine if my diff is slip or non-slip? I had kinda assumed that they all were non-slip.
Thanks in advance for the help!
Ryan
I've read alot about this and am now going to order parts to do this myself as I see that my boot has totally separated and I hear the clicking noise when I turn the wheel. Parts are relatively cheap for what kind of part it is and I hear that it's fairly easy to do. But my question here is that I see a bunch of axles designed for a slip or non-slip differential...how can I determine if my diff is slip or non-slip? I had kinda assumed that they all were non-slip.
Thanks in advance for the help!
Ryan
#6
#7
Ryan,
Please post how you made out with this job if you started it yet.
I'm going to be doing mine in the next week so I'd love any tips or problems you came across while doing it. Also, where did you end up buying your axle? I'll probably just get a rebuilt one at Advance Auto Parts for the $80 or so after core (driver side front, 95 SE auto).
Chris
Please post how you made out with this job if you started it yet.
I'm going to be doing mine in the next week so I'd love any tips or problems you came across while doing it. Also, where did you end up buying your axle? I'll probably just get a rebuilt one at Advance Auto Parts for the $80 or so after core (driver side front, 95 SE auto).
Chris
#8
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
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Originally Posted by MN_Maxim
Hey All,
I've read alot about this and am now going to order parts to do this myself as I see that my boot has totally separated and I hear the clicking noise when I turn the wheel. Parts are relatively cheap for what kind of part it is and I hear that it's fairly easy to do. But my question here is that I see a bunch of axles designed for a slip or non-slip differential...how can I determine if my diff is slip or non-slip? I had kinda assumed that they all were non-slip.
Thanks in advance for the help!
Ryan
I've read alot about this and am now going to order parts to do this myself as I see that my boot has totally separated and I hear the clicking noise when I turn the wheel. Parts are relatively cheap for what kind of part it is and I hear that it's fairly easy to do. But my question here is that I see a bunch of axles designed for a slip or non-slip differential...how can I determine if my diff is slip or non-slip? I had kinda assumed that they all were non-slip.
Thanks in advance for the help!
Ryan
#9
#10
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
All USDM Maximas were non-locking or as you put it "slip" differentials. There is a stamped metal plate on the passanger side firewall under the hood. The tranny code is listed there. The series starts with an R and will either end in a V or A. V's are locking and A's are non-locking. Only place you will find a locking differential around here is a I30 or a Canadian spec max. Not all I30 or Canadian spec max's have them.
#11
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
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Originally Posted by Taxvictim
Wait, are you saying that the RS5F50V is NOT a VLSD? I thought the V was for the limited slip? I have a '96 I-30t with the RS5F50V transmission, and assumed that was the viscous limited slip differential. (It might help if I actually understood the mechanical differences between the two.)
#15
I plan on starting it this weekend...was wondering...how much were the axles from www.raxles.com?
#16
I still have a spare in good condition if anybody wants just to replace.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=246544
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=246544
#17
i picked my up at Advance and hope to do it next week sometime. it was about $90 after core and has a lifetime one free replacement guarantee. the car only cost me $800 and has 180,000 miles so hopefully i won't have to replace it more than that!
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