can anyone recomend a good fuel injector cleaner aditive?
can anyone recomend a good fuel injector cleaner aditive?
My 98 I30 has a rough idle, and after replacing all 6 coil packs i've come to the conclusion my idle problem is injector related. I've already replaced the fuel filer, plugs, and cleaned the throttle body to no avail. Anyway i'm wondering if anyone could recomend a good fuel additive that may unclog my injectors, i've tried the stp stuff every oil change but it doesnt help. Is techron worth the money?
Originally Posted by infinitiman96
theres 2 different kinds of techron though
http://www.bgprod.com/bgprofessional.../autofuel.html
I'll vouch for this stuff too! Which reminds me.. Time to get another can.
Originally Posted by MadMax95
Originally Posted by maxNYC
How do you know its well worth it? are the gains or reving evident? I'd spend the extra money if it were justified. The chevron stuff is just as good.
Originally Posted by 95seMax
I Also want to know how u drive wen its in the tank , are u supposed to drive hard to burn it up faster?
The cleaner going through the injectors is what cleans it. I can't imagine if it goes through faster it would do any better than if the same amount went through at a slower pace.
Just my $0.02
the 44k product is what many dealerships use... it's much more concenrated than other off the shelf cleaners. Since you are spending the money on the fuel system cleaner, I'd reccomend to first do a Throttle body cleaning, then upper intake cleaning while you are running your tank w/ bg44k in it. This way, your throttlebody gets cleaned and extra gunk goes into your plenum... your plenum gets cleaned and extra gunk goes through your combustion chambers (if you do the 'car running' method).. and the bg44k cleans up your fuel system and combustion chambers. This is exactly how my local nissan shop cleans the air intake, fuel and combustion components.
Clean combustion chambers are important as carbon in there can lead to hot spots.. which leads to knock... 0304 codes (for those who beleive that knock detection can throw the 0304) and poor performance.
Do not feel the need to drive the car hard while you have the 44k in the tank. Simply pour in the 44k (use a funnel, you'll be glad you did) and then fill your tank w/ premium gas, which you should be using anyways. Drive like a soccer mom until the tank is near empty and enjoy your clean system.
Clean combustion chambers are important as carbon in there can lead to hot spots.. which leads to knock... 0304 codes (for those who beleive that knock detection can throw the 0304) and poor performance.
Do not feel the need to drive the car hard while you have the 44k in the tank. Simply pour in the 44k (use a funnel, you'll be glad you did) and then fill your tank w/ premium gas, which you should be using anyways. Drive like a soccer mom until the tank is near empty and enjoy your clean system.
LiquidNine,
I am currently having knocking problems at around 2k. Currently I am putting the Auto Rx and BG 44k in my tank and one of our member suggested spraying the Throttle Body/Intake cleaner with engine running.
The whole thread is here:http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=254345
Seems to me that I need to do this for my last resort.
I am currently having knocking problems at around 2k. Currently I am putting the Auto Rx and BG 44k in my tank and one of our member suggested spraying the Throttle Body/Intake cleaner with engine running.
The whole thread is here:http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=254345
Seems to me that I need to do this for my last resort.
Originally Posted by LiquidNine
the 44k product is what many dealerships use... it's much more concenrated than other off the shelf cleaners. Since you are spending the money on the fuel system cleaner, I'd reccomend to first do a Throttle body cleaning, then upper intake cleaning while you are running your tank w/ bg44k in it. This way, your throttlebody gets cleaned and extra gunk goes into your plenum... your plenum gets cleaned and extra gunk goes through your combustion chambers (if you do the 'car running' method).. and the bg44k cleans up your fuel system and combustion chambers. This is exactly how my local nissan shop cleans the air intake, fuel and combustion components.
Clean combustion chambers are important as carbon in there can lead to hot spots.. which leads to knock... 0304 codes (for those who beleive that knock detection can throw the 0304) and poor performance.
Do not feel the need to drive the car hard while you have the 44k in the tank. Simply pour in the 44k (use a funnel, you'll be glad you did) and then fill your tank w/ premium gas, which you should be using anyways. Drive like a soccer mom until the tank is near empty and enjoy your clean system.
Clean combustion chambers are important as carbon in there can lead to hot spots.. which leads to knock... 0304 codes (for those who beleive that knock detection can throw the 0304) and poor performance.
Do not feel the need to drive the car hard while you have the 44k in the tank. Simply pour in the 44k (use a funnel, you'll be glad you did) and then fill your tank w/ premium gas, which you should be using anyways. Drive like a soccer mom until the tank is near empty and enjoy your clean system.
Originally Posted by LiquidNine
the 44k product is what many dealerships use... it's much more concenrated than other off the shelf cleaners. Since you are spending the money on the fuel system cleaner, I'd reccomend to first do a Throttle body cleaning, then upper intake cleaning while you are running your tank w/ bg44k in it. This way, your throttlebody gets cleaned and extra gunk goes into your plenum... your plenum gets cleaned and extra gunk goes through your combustion chambers (if you do the 'car running' method).. and the bg44k cleans up your fuel system and combustion chambers. This is exactly how my local nissan shop cleans the air intake, fuel and combustion components.......
.
.
I would love to spray clean my TB and not have to destroy my hand anymore (seriously why does the max have so much sharp edges was the intention not to have mech work on or just DIY'er)
I live in mia does anyone know of a location to pick up BG 44k (someplace like a napa parts)...
TIA

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Always smiling at the SUN (1)
Originally Posted by NewbieNissan
I would love to spray clean my TB and not have to destroy my hand anymore (seriously why does the max have so much sharp edges was the intention not to have mech work on or just DIY'er)

10 characters...
just use chevron techron feul system cleaner, not jsut the injectorcleaner. i have heard that there is some factory coating on the partsthat keep deposit off the fuel system. if you use too much of the fuel cleaners u strip the parts of the coating. if you never used the cleaners before jsut use a whole bottle with a full tank of gas. you'll notice a difference. i dont know about using it every 6k though.i find myself buying a bottle every year.
I reccomend cleaning the TB w/ the spray and rag method w/ the car off... then spray in an intake cleaner (I used AMSOIL Power Foam - not reccomended to me by anyone on the .org, I just went for it) while the car is running. Remember to disconnect the electrical connections to your maf before you start your car w/ the exposed TB. you'll throw a CEL for a maf failure or circuit break, but it's no big deal to reset.
I don't like the method of spraying in intake cleaner with the air intake system still attached... especially if you are still using the stock resonator where a midpipe would be because it's a resonator and oil separator - thus, not a straight shot to your TB. The inside of that resonator is contoured with valleys that lead to the interior of the resonator. From what I've seen, when you spray the cleaner into the intake, it tends to slide along the walls of the intake and I want all the cleaner to go straight into the TB and upper plenum. It's easier to do this when everything is detached and you can spray it yourself direct to where you want it to go. I think sliding the 'straw' of the spray can in to a gap between the couplers far to much of a PITA... it's easier for me to just remove the intake resonator and MAF. The one time I did the straw through the coupler method, I was unhappy and completed the cleaning by removal of the resonator and MAF.
I don't like the method of spraying in intake cleaner with the air intake system still attached... especially if you are still using the stock resonator where a midpipe would be because it's a resonator and oil separator - thus, not a straight shot to your TB. The inside of that resonator is contoured with valleys that lead to the interior of the resonator. From what I've seen, when you spray the cleaner into the intake, it tends to slide along the walls of the intake and I want all the cleaner to go straight into the TB and upper plenum. It's easier to do this when everything is detached and you can spray it yourself direct to where you want it to go. I think sliding the 'straw' of the spray can in to a gap between the couplers far to much of a PITA... it's easier for me to just remove the intake resonator and MAF. The one time I did the straw through the coupler method, I was unhappy and completed the cleaning by removal of the resonator and MAF.
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