Blue smoke out of the exhast?
#1
Blue smoke out of the exhast?
hey guys when i rev my car up or down shift my friends say thier blue smoke coming out of my exhast.
any ideas??? o rings?? i was think??
i have a 2.5 catback, test pipe and y pipe
and 156,000 miles on the motor and i just changed 2 mobil 1 syn. oil ???at 153,000
any ideas??? o rings?? i was think??
i have a 2.5 catback, test pipe and y pipe
and 156,000 miles on the motor and i just changed 2 mobil 1 syn. oil ???at 153,000
#10
Originally Posted by RI-Max
can i switch 2 regular??????????
The only thing that might help (short of repairing the engine) is a slightly heavier grade of oil. Check your manual for the acceptable range.
You either have a piston ring problem or a valve problem if you have oil blow-by into your exhaust.
You're not likely to "blow" the engine as a result of either of these problems, but left unchecked, you will certainly experience premature failure of O2 sensors and possibly your catalytic converter. Also, if your state requires emissions tests as part of registration renewal, you will likely fail the emissions test.
Definitely do a compression test & see what you come up with.
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#11
i was read if i wanna change back 2 regular oil(castrol GTX) (as i was using before) i have 2 run regular oil then drain it. then refill it and it should be ok. or do a oil flush. which was down at 146,000. right????????
and i'll do a compression test 2 morrow at work.
and i'll do a compression test 2 morrow at work.
#12
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Originally Posted by RI-Max
o thats really freaking great so im guess it gonna blown soon huh???
I did a compression test and all my cylinders are 175-180... so definetly healthy. If you get good results then there is nothing to worry about. But likely it is your rings that are wearing down. Use an oil that is meant for higher mileage engines... they have seal treatment chemicals in them.
I was advised to use Castrol GTX 10W30 by people on the org.
#13
Originally Posted by speedemn
No... I have the same problem as you. My blue smoke is hardly noticeable but I seem to burn quite a bit of oil... 1L every 2 weeks or so and more if I am on it quite a bit.
I did a compression test and all my cylinders are 175-180... so definetly healthy. If you get good results then there is nothing to worry about. But likely it is your rings that are wearing down. Use an oil that is meant for higher mileage engines... they have seal treatment chemicals in them.
I was advised to use Castrol GTX 10W30 by people on the org.
I did a compression test and all my cylinders are 175-180... so definetly healthy. If you get good results then there is nothing to worry about. But likely it is your rings that are wearing down. Use an oil that is meant for higher mileage engines... they have seal treatment chemicals in them.
I was advised to use Castrol GTX 10W30 by people on the org.
#14
Holy **** Anish 1L every 2 weeks is a **** load to burn man.Are you sure that your cylinders are fine. There is no way you should be losing that much oil, 2L a month It has to be your o rings, bro. Out of curiousity how did you do your compression test???
Ciao
-Alin-
Ciao
-Alin-
#15
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Originally Posted by nismomaxima97
Holy **** Anish 1L every 2 weeks is a **** load to burn man.Are you sure that your cylinders are fine. There is no way you should be losing that much oil, 2L a month It has to be your o rings, bro. Out of curiousity how did you do your compression test???
Ciao
-Alin-
Ciao
-Alin-
I got a compression tester from Canadian Tire. Justin used the same one on his motor. When we used the tip at the end, my compression came out to about 175 average... when we took that tip off, it was an average of about 185. Variance was no more than about 5.
Yes looks like my rings are the culprit, but as long as compression is good, nothing to worry about for now. But I have started to research internals and rings along with that... beef up the VQ...
![Drool](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/drool.gif)
#16
Originally Posted by speedemn
Yep it is quite strange... no oil leaks either... car looks clean (tiny hint of blue smoke when I floor it) from behind.
I got a compression tester from Canadian Tire. Justin used the same one on his motor. When we used the tip at the end, my compression came out to about 175 average... when we took that tip off, it was an average of about 185. Variance was no more than about 5.
Yes looks like my rings are the culprit, but as long as compression is good, nothing to worry about for now. But I have started to research internals and rings along with that... beef up the VQ...![Drool](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/drool.gif)
I got a compression tester from Canadian Tire. Justin used the same one on his motor. When we used the tip at the end, my compression came out to about 175 average... when we took that tip off, it was an average of about 185. Variance was no more than about 5.
Yes looks like my rings are the culprit, but as long as compression is good, nothing to worry about for now. But I have started to research internals and rings along with that... beef up the VQ...
![Drool](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/drool.gif)
just did a compression test and i got 150 psi. and i change back 2 castrol gtx 5-30. is that low compression?
#17
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An engine is in bad shape when you have cylinders with drastic difference in PSI...Example 170 171 172 158 170 157...good would be 170 172 173 171 170 171...all in a good range
150 does seem alittle on the low side. New is 210 I believe
Did you test all the cylinders or just one ?>
-matt
150 does seem alittle on the low side. New is 210 I believe
Did you test all the cylinders or just one ?>
-matt
#18
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Originally Posted by RI-Max
just did a compression test and i got 150 psi. and i change back 2 castrol gtx 5-30. is that low compression?
Overall 150 is a bit low I think, but as long as they are all 150 +/- 10 then it's all good... how many miles are on your motor?
#23
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Originally Posted by waveridr85
what causes the lower compresion? is power lost the lower the compression? hoe can i fully restore the compression?
-matt
#25
this is what you do if you burn oil....first never use the synthetic oil unless your car comes new from the factory with it already in the car. non-synthetic oil tends to fill the grooves in the cylinders that your pistons and rings put in the walls of the cylinders. Since non-synthetic oil has a little higher of a resistence and a little less protectiveness you produce the grooves in the cylinder. so basically you have to change your oil and filter asap, switch back to what you were using before. If you are still burning oil take it up a step to like 10-30...just let your car warm up before you drive it...you should actually always so this because if you don't there isn't enough oil in the cylinders to "slip" on so you produce deeper grooves. it you are still burning oil step up to 20-50 but, you must warm up you car before driveing....after all this if you are still burning oil switch to sae 30 weight oil in the summer and 20-50 in the winter....by doing these steps you will a). stop burning oil or b). know that you have a serious ring leak and should prolly get you engine re-built or replaced...and just as a side note....NEVER get you engine flushed after 50k miles....it washes the oil that fills the grooves out and you will start to burn oil...you want that older, harder oil in the grooves...good luck....I don't believe you have to get you engine replaced I think this is all because you switched to synthetic...
dave
dave
#26
Low cylinder compression pressures is due to some of the compressed gases leaking past leaky parts... e.g. worn piston rings, worn valve guides, warped (burned) valves, broken head gasket, cracked cylinder head, etc. It is bad for performance and fuel economy, and depending on the root cause of the compression problem, could become worse as you continue to drive it...
Bottom line, occasional burned oil usually means the engine's becoming "worn out". It'll still run, it just won't run like it was brand new...![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
FYI, "low compression" being good for boost... not in this case. The "low compression" they talk about with boost is static compression ratio, which is determined by the dimensions/geometry of the cylinders, head, pistons/rods/crank... basically how much the gases are compressed during the compression stroke. This "low compression" we're dealing with in this thread, is improper sealing/leakage of gases... this type will be bad for both N/A and boosted applications.
I agree that switching to synthetic at such a high mileage was a bad idea, but hopefully not catastrophic--try a HIgh Mileage oil like Castrol or Valvoline MaxLife... I had good luck with Valvoline MaxLife in an old Mazda I owned from 160-180K miles. It helps keep those worn seals together and prevent them from getting worse.
Bottom line, occasional burned oil usually means the engine's becoming "worn out". It'll still run, it just won't run like it was brand new...
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
FYI, "low compression" being good for boost... not in this case. The "low compression" they talk about with boost is static compression ratio, which is determined by the dimensions/geometry of the cylinders, head, pistons/rods/crank... basically how much the gases are compressed during the compression stroke. This "low compression" we're dealing with in this thread, is improper sealing/leakage of gases... this type will be bad for both N/A and boosted applications.
I agree that switching to synthetic at such a high mileage was a bad idea, but hopefully not catastrophic--try a HIgh Mileage oil like Castrol or Valvoline MaxLife... I had good luck with Valvoline MaxLife in an old Mazda I owned from 160-180K miles. It helps keep those worn seals together and prevent them from getting worse.
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