mbb6

I hope it's not the cv joints, anyone know what is the cause of this?

Daniel B. Martin

The most likely cause of this sound is bad CV joints.

GTRBlkMax97

iTrader: (1)

I have the same problem but only in a right turn and it gets worse when it is raining really hard. Any suggestions Daniel B. I don't understand why it does it more when it is raining. Also when I drop the clutch it makes a bad knocking sound, but I belive the bolt that holds the brace for the CAT and the bolt that holds the heatshield on the CAT are hitting each other when the clutch is dropped, but help me please with the clicking I still have a powertrain warranty

ajaffee

I hate to say this, but that clicking when turning is a classis symptom of bad cv joints. The boots probably ripped (which does happen) and the lube broke down. Have it looked at ASAP.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

It's easy to check if the cv joint's boot is ripped. Take a look around the inside your your wheel and suspension area. If the boot is ripped, you will see grease EVERYWHERE.

Sonic

If the clicking sound occurs while stationary, can it still be the CV joint or does it then have to be something else? The car tracks absolutely straight on even roads, sits evenly and rebounds once with the 'bumper test'. I no longer hear the sound when I go over 10 mph, and it should be noticable because the only sound I hear from my car when moving is the tires (yes I guess I had the one Maxima that was correctly sound deadened from the factory).
BTW, the boots are both intact.

[Edited by medicsonic on 02-20-2001 at 02:56 PM]

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Car must be moving to hear the cv joint click. And bad cv joints really have nothing to do w/ the suspension aligment or the struts/shocks on the car.

Daniel B. Martin

The usual test for a bad CV joint is to go to a quiet parking lot and drive the car slowly (3 mph) in tight clockwise circles, and then tight counterclockwise circles. Do this in a forward gear, and also in reverse. A bad joint will usually make distinct rhythmic clicking or snapping sounds. Snap, snap, snap!

The steering gear is designed so that during a turn the "inside wheel" is angled more sharply. This is known as the Ackermann Angle. It is necessary because the inside wheel describes a circle (as seen from above) with a smaller radius than the outside circle. Therefore we must suspect that your outer right Constant Velocity joint is damaged.

I cannot explain why the sound is more pronounced during a hard rain.

Sonic

That's what I thought, it was the CV joints, but then that naturally takes me to the tires (a clicking sound though?) or the springs and struts being the other likely causes. I know little about the suspension in the Maxima. Is there a bearing somewhere that could wear out and cause the clicking sound? That's why I mentioned the suspension characteristics before, I figured if a bearing was bad, it would change the dynamics of the car.

maxspeed5

Don't rule out the strut bearing, depending on how the CV joints look. I have a clanking/clicking sound coming from the TOP of my passenger side strut assembly, which I am almost 100% sure is the strut bearing. After 6 year and 114,000 miles they just get worn out. If this is the problem, the good news is that the part is only $20 (although I would reccomend replacing the other parts in there too), the bad is that the entire strut assembly must be taken apart for replacement. Alot of $$$ in labor if you can't do it yourself.

Daniel B. Martin

If your car makes a clicking sound when not moving, it is not the Constant Velocity joints or the wheel bearings.

It is important to identify the source of the noise. A four-foot length of small diameter rubber vacuum hose will help you do this. You can buy the hose in any auto parts store. They typically sell it in bulk for about US$0.50 per foot. Put one end of the hose in your ear and the other end near any suspected source of noise. Have an assistant do the "bumper jounce" maneuver to provoke the sound while you listen.

Listen to the strut, the ball joint, the control arm bushing, the sway bar bushings. Listen to everything that moves when the suspension works. You will have to lie on the ground with your arm and the hose under the car for some of these tests. You may find it convenient to have the car up on ramps.

With patience you will find the origin of the noise. I call this kind of careful investigation "Looking for clues at the scene of the crime." Good luck!

Sonic

There's the problem. The sound doesn't happen when driving, its a click-click-click sound when turning the steering wheel when stationary. It's definately coming from the left side of the engine/side of the car. Unless I put it on a lift, I can't figure out how I'm going to find out what it is exactly. Is it something I could in theory ignore for like 3-4 months? I have 17" rims and am getting tired of the 4X4 look, so I'm probably going to drop the car, but don't want to do it until I am sure we aren't getting any more snow. I really would hate to take the suspension apart twice, especially for something that annoys me and has NO effect whatsoever with the preformance/handling of the car. I drive 20 miles to work on the highway and 20 miles back, so I figure about 3000 to 4000 miles until I get to replacing it.

Daniel B. Martin

Without a definite diagnosis there is no way to decide that it is safe to ignore. Until there is evidence to the contrary, you should regard it as unsafe to ignore.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Check the fluid level in the power steering pump container. If low, it 'might' make that noise. Take a look at the power steering rack boots and confirm if they are ripped or not. Or look for any leaks around the power steering rack area.

NYCe MaXiMa

iTrader: (9)

Parts and labor?

and, what are the consequences of not having them fixed for a long time?

Daniel B. Martin

In most cases the cost-effective repair is to replace the axle with a remanufactured unit. You get two rebuilt Constant Velocity joints and two new rubber boots on each axle. Even though the parts cost is higher than replacing one CV joint, the labor cost is lower.

Look for a reputable independent shop to charge around $200 per axle, total. A dealer will charge more. Labor costs vary from place to place. You live in a high-cost area...