I can hear mine. It's pretty apparent on mine when it opens up.

 

I'm like Neal, I can't tell that it is open until 6500 or so. By then I can hear the intake sound change and feel my car pull like crazy.

 

you guys started talking about MEVIs and lost me

but still

 

sweet times....good job of representing the maxima at the track!!

 

Sweet!!!!!

 

Nice times Sleeper!!!! I bet you spank alot of Honda owners.

I am curious. What kind of gains did you get from switching to the MEVI with an automagic?

Thanks,
Gears

P.S. Time to slap on some Nitto DR's on those 96 saw blades. We all want to see some 13's.

 

I think that the MEVI has to be opening because it made a bigger difference on my car than a 5-spd. I think if it wasn't opening the best I could have run would have been a 14.8-14.9. The LED is hooked up to the RPM switch, not the manifold. I can tell when it doesn't open because the car won't pull hard past 6500rpm. I think it is something else besides the MEVI.

 

Man and i thought i was doing good!!! Good times man

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=461564

That is a link to a guy with a Subaru WRX STI that was at the track with me. His best run was againt me, and he posted that I was a supercharged maxima. That Makes me feel pretty good.

 

"2000 supercharged maxima" Good thing your buddy chimed in, I almost registerd. Can't have them thinking that was a sc max.

 

I can't either. But I sure can tell by how it pulls when it does open. By the time it gets up above 6000 rpm, I mean.

 

For the guys that can't hear the switchover, are you using midpipes or the OEM resonator?


Dave

 

I've got all the SC intake piping, which muffles intake noise quite a bit.

 

ok, it is definately not the MEVI. I unplugged it yesterday to feel what it is like when it is not working and it is night and day difference. So, my MEVI was definately working. I am trying to set up a dyno sometime in the next few weeks to find out my A/F ratio and if my power is low, other that that, I am stumped. Question to the experts...what do you think I should dyno? I don't know if an auto has ever dynoed with as many mods as I have. Also, I have to dyno in 3rd gear, but what is the best way. I have to turn OD off to get past the stock rev limiter, but do I keep OD off the whole time, or leave it on until stock redline and click it off? When the converter is locked in 3rd gear it should make more power I think, but I am not sure.

 

lol, i just read the thread...super charged? do other people really think we're that slow?

 

I wouldn't worry about the MPH too much. Do you always run on the short tires or was this a new thing? The short tires will sometimes hurt the topend depending on gear and rpm you're crossing the line. Race gas might help things too.

As for the dyno, BSwithTF has the same mods as you and he made something like 184fwhp/181fwtq:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=156660

I was there when he dynoed and they just put the car in drive and dynoed 3rd gear. This was on a Dynojet. I would think your making the same power.


Dave

 

I did not notice the 205/50 diameter tires. That is what, 9% smaller than stock? Maybe the fact that you only cross the line in 3rd at 5500rpms is why your trap is low and all your power is in the 1st 1/8 mile. Maybe a 205/55 or 205/60 would give a better 2nd 1/8 and bump your traps up a bit. Although that would not improve your ET any. It might even go up a bit.

 

I have run those tires at the track for the last year though. When I trapped 98mph, it was on those tires.

 

hmmmmmmm....yep, then I have no idea what is going on.

 

Headwind? I lost about 2mph thru the traps last time at the track because of a 15-20mph headwind and still managed to pull off my best time on street tires that I've ever run, except for the 13.98 I ran last april.

I'd guess about 185-190whp 175-180 tq.

 

When they dyno, they'll put it in drive (O/D off) and run it into third and feel around the rpm's to see where the t/c locks up at. Once they've figured that out, they drive it up to just over that point at normal throttle and then floor it to redline. My dyno plots started at 3500 rpm's both times. I'm not sure what that is on the actual tach in the car.

 

wouldnt it be pretty close to the car tach? where does the shop measure the engine RPM?

 

Just a reminder... If you push the O/D button, you will be enabling the car to shift into 4th gear. It doesn't necessarily control torque convertor lock up. Yes, your car should dyno more and get truer reading when the convertor is locked in third (in the upper rpm range). I don't know how you will get it to lock when you want it to though... There may be a wire you could splice into. This might be a nice mod for the track too. This is an old Grand National mod.

 

lol...incase we didnt know what O/D did?

 

lol... some don't - check this thread out http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=262331

 

yea, i know SOME people dont, but it was already defined in this thread

 

I only said this because (from what I've heard/read) our tach's aren't entirely accurate. I think mine is off about 200-300 rpm's.

The dyno tech attaches a clip around a wire in the engine bay to read rpm.