Parking brake stuck on, why? - 98gxe
12-12-2003, 10:07 PM
#1
Parking brake stuck on, why? - 98gxe
Went to move the car tonight and the parking brake was stuck on. Lots of slAck in the lever and couldn't get it to release. I drove up and down the street to put a little heat in it and it released on its own a few minutes later in the garage. Up on jacks I checked the cables, no problem so I shot some wd40 on them and keeping my fingers crossed. Anybody have this happen before? (somebody please turn search back on.)
12-13-2003, 12:19 AM
#2
re:
Originally Posted by c918
Went to move the car tonight and the parking brake was stuck on. Lots of slAck in the lever and couldn't get it to release. I drove up and down the street to put a little heat in it and it released on its own a few minutes later in the garage. Up on jacks I checked the cables, no problem so I shot some wd40 on them and keeping my fingers crossed. Anybody have this happen before? (somebody please turn search back on.)
my parking brake been seized for over two years now, i just don't have enough motivation to drop the exhaust(cat converter) in order to relpace the cables.
also the rear actuators at the calipers are pretty frozen.
one time i pulled on the handle and released it , but the rears calipers didn't disengage and end up with red hot glowing rotors , and burnt smell.
had to get under the car and hit those spring actuators with hammer in order to relase them.
once it gets warm I''ll get it fixed.
check http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/303 for quick fix
Nick
12-13-2003, 02:01 AM
#3
Originally Posted by nick
my parking brake been seized for over two years now, i just don't have enough motivation to drop the exhaust(cat converter) in order to relpace the cables.
also the rear actuators at the calipers are pretty frozen.
one time i pulled on the handle and released it , but the rears calipers didn't disengage and end up with red hot glowing rotors , and burnt smell.
had to get under the car and hit those spring actuators with hammer in order to relase them.
once it gets warm I''ll get it fixed.
check http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/303 for quick fix
Nick
also the rear actuators at the calipers are pretty frozen.
one time i pulled on the handle and released it , but the rears calipers didn't disengage and end up with red hot glowing rotors , and burnt smell.
had to get under the car and hit those spring actuators with hammer in order to relase them.
once it gets warm I''ll get it fixed.
check http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/303 for quick fix
Nick
Do you drive an automatic where you did not use the parking brake much?
12-13-2003, 05:29 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Montreal
Posts: 742
I have same problem. Every day below freezing point the ebrake freezes on one side. Caliper is Ok, I changed it 2 months ago. After 10 minutes in a heated garage, the cable releases.
I tried this:
I cut off and discard a part of the cable jacket near the caliper end, sprayed a lot of lithiun grease, slide a 3/4 in x 12 in long rubber pipe on the exposed cable. Attached both ends of the pipe with hose clamps.
Result: still freezes gnahhhh!! but at lower temperatures though.
That leaves me with 2 options: replace that cable, or live without it until March. If I decide to live without it, I will detach the cable end from the caliper as a precaution, in case someone accidentally pulls the ebrake, and freezes in that position.
I have already inspected the balancer area. To access it no need to take out the cat. Detach the muffler end (3 or 4 rubber hangers). Then lower the exhaust pipe. There will be enough clearance to unscrew the heat shield. I had jacked all 4 corners of the car to have more elbow room while under it. The balancer is in the middle of the car. Would be hard to work on if only 2 corners of the car are jacked. Not a difficult job, but a heated garage is a must in a snow country!
I tried this:
I cut off and discard a part of the cable jacket near the caliper end, sprayed a lot of lithiun grease, slide a 3/4 in x 12 in long rubber pipe on the exposed cable. Attached both ends of the pipe with hose clamps.
Result: still freezes gnahhhh!! but at lower temperatures though.
That leaves me with 2 options: replace that cable, or live without it until March. If I decide to live without it, I will detach the cable end from the caliper as a precaution, in case someone accidentally pulls the ebrake, and freezes in that position.
I have already inspected the balancer area. To access it no need to take out the cat. Detach the muffler end (3 or 4 rubber hangers). Then lower the exhaust pipe. There will be enough clearance to unscrew the heat shield. I had jacked all 4 corners of the car to have more elbow room while under it. The balancer is in the middle of the car. Would be hard to work on if only 2 corners of the car are jacked. Not a difficult job, but a heated garage is a must in a snow country!
12-13-2003, 10:02 AM
#6
Originally Posted by NissanMasterTec
Common problem on 98's.
There is a TSB for this problem, Nissan has updated cables to fix the problem
There is a TSB for this problem, Nissan has updated cables to fix the problem
So what do these cables cost and what is different about them so they work correctly.
12-13-2003, 05:33 PM
#8
You love to use the e brake when its winter!
Didnt daddy tell you not to do that!? the cables can freeze... I have solved this problem with a hairdryer, i assure you...Dont use the e brake in the winter for long periods unless you have to. 5spd, leave it in gear
auto, put it in park!
Didnt daddy tell you not to do that!? the cables can freeze... I have solved this problem with a hairdryer, i assure you...Dont use the e brake in the winter for long periods unless you have to. 5spd, leave it in gear
auto, put it in park!
12-13-2003, 07:22 PM
#9
using hte ebrake in the auto is a good thing because all the pressure doesn't go on the lock pin, with ebrake up the car doesn not roll that extra few inches. i read thas good for tranny
12-14-2003, 11:18 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Montreal
Posts: 742
Originally Posted by c918
[QUOTE Each side side costs $60.
So I guess you don't have to buy them both?
cc[/QUOTE]
replace only the side that freezes. Jack the rear wheels off ground, and spin them, evaluate the "resistance" on each.
12-14-2003, 11:26 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Montreal
Posts: 742
Originally Posted by 97blackSE
You love to use the e brake when its winter!
Didnt daddy tell you not to do that!? the cables can freeze... I have solved this problem with a hairdryer, i assure you...Dont use the e brake in the winter for long periods unless you have to. 5spd, leave it in gear
auto, put it in park!
Didnt daddy tell you not to do that!? the cables can freeze... I have solved this problem with a hairdryer, i assure you...Dont use the e brake in the winter for long periods unless you have to. 5spd, leave it in gear
auto, put it in park!
Right, in winter, use the ebrake every day, or dont use it at all, and you will end up with rusted cables you cant use no matter the season, well at least in a rust country. I bought my '98 last year. The previous owner probably didn't use the ebrake. That explains why cable one side has rust or condensation in it.
Ever since I replaced an automatic tran shifter cable, I use the ebrake everyday om my driveway. I had replaced the auto tran cable few years ago because it had elongated from parking on my inclined driveway without applying first the ebrake. (I couldn't shift anymore, the notches were misaligned. )
12-14-2003, 12:05 PM
#13
Originally Posted by twiggy144
Right, in winter, use the ebrake every day, or dont use it at all, and you will end up with rusted cables you cant use no matter the season, well at least in a rust country. I bought my '98 last year. The previous owner probably didn't use the ebrake. That explains why cable one side has rust or condensation in it.
Ever since I replaced an automatic tran shifter cable, I use the ebrake everyday om my driveway. I had replaced the auto tran cable few years ago because it had elongated from parking on my inclined driveway without applying first the ebrake. (I couldn't shift anymore, the notches were misaligned. )
Ever since I replaced an automatic tran shifter cable, I use the ebrake everyday om my driveway. I had replaced the auto tran cable few years ago because it had elongated from parking on my inclined driveway without applying first the ebrake. (I couldn't shift anymore, the notches were misaligned. )
Makes sense. I do use it but I only drive the car once a week maybe. Its only got 78000 miles.
Go Rams!
12-14-2003, 07:56 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Montreal
Posts: 742
Drive once a week, poor you, your rotors will rust prematurely then. Daily rides make the pads wear off the overnight thin layer of rust forming on the rotors.
When my wife drove her car a couple of times a week, ended up replacing rotors at 50000 km (30000 milles).
When my wife drove her car a couple of times a week, ended up replacing rotors at 50000 km (30000 milles).
12-14-2003, 09:39 PM
#15
Originally Posted by twiggy144
Drive once a week, poor you, your rotors will rust prematurely then. Daily rides make the pads wear off the overnight thin layer of rust forming on the rotors.
When my wife drove her car a couple of times a week, ended up replacing rotors at 50000 km (30000 milles).
When my wife drove her car a couple of times a week, ended up replacing rotors at 50000 km (30000 milles).
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