Ok here goes, sorry so long but i need to explain in detail, i would appreciate any helpfull info..

beginning of November i had AAMCO install new tranny, slave cylinder, Exedy stage 1 cerametalic clutch and PP, everything was pretty toight, a few days after i got it back.

I Noticed when backing out of the garage that when i put it in Neutral and took my foot off the clutch, the tranny seemed to still be engaged. it would kinda pop out and then be good to go. it did this a few times and at first i blamed it on me letting my foot off the clutch to soon, then i realized it was not me.


Ok Sunday morning i wake up, go out warm up car, i rolled it out of the garage in neutral because i didnt wanna get back out to close the gar. door, car was all warmed up. I jump in, go to put it into reverse, and it wouldnt go in, tried first, same thing. Shut off the car put it in gear and tried to start, and what do you know, the clutch was not doing anything and the car was moving. First thig done was to check the master cylinder, it was dry, i filled it, pumped clutch still nothing, So i got a new Master and slapped it on, bled lines, pumped clutch, pedal felt good to go. got in the car, same damn thing........ still wont go into gear....... am i missing something? I am going to bring it back to AAMCO tomorrow morning, but everything on the outside from the pedal to the tranny is working as it should be, i assume the problem lies within. I am so frustrated, and now will be carless for the holiday. ANYONE WITH ANY IDEAS PLEASE RESPOND.............

Thanks

 

Anyone???????

 

bumpppppp again, cmon guys, this has never happened to anyone???

 

Hmmm, first of all, the dry master is not a good sign, but since you changed it and everything feels fine then that must not be the prob.

Did you check if the slave cylinder is actually moving the clutch fork when you press the clutch in?? If it is, then its probably something inside.

How about shifting into second or third gear?

my $0.02.

 

If the master dried out, you have a leak. Check the slave cylinder and the lines to see if you can figure out where the leak is.

You might still have a bit of air in the line or the slave cylinder may be shot causing your clutch to stay engauged.

 

OK, quick update, i had the master replaced, still did the same, i brought it back to AAMCO, (they did tranny and clutch and slave 5 weeks ago, they charged me another 70 bucks, said the line from the master to the slave was leaking, they took 2 days to replace it, then i get car back,m and my brand new clutch is SHOT!!!! it almost like they swapped out the New Exedy with an oem...... clutch grabs halfway up as opposed to bottom like it has been for the last 5 weeks. and now the clutch slips under ANY boost. I dont know what to do now..........

 

THEY CHARGED you another $70 for screwing up the line? When they replaced the Master and Slave cylinders, they messed up and caused a leak and then charged you for their mistake. Typical...


As for where the clutch is grabbing, it's more a matter of the adjustment on the clutch under the dash, check out the FAQ.

Mike

 

do you have clutch pedal freeplay? if you dont, then your clutch is slipping b/c your pedal is not adjusted properly, causing the pressure plated not to release completely. make sure you can wiggle the clutch pedal about a half an inch without any resistance.

 

Ok, i read the FAQ to see if i could adjust the clutch, i cant figure it out, not sure which bolt to loosen and which way to turn rod, but as i look at the floor the cotter pin for the adjustment thing was sitting there so i put that back on, my clutch pedal is TIGHT way toooo tight its like stepping on a brick. its not enguaging at the right spot and it is slipping bad but only in like 2nd gear and up..... kinda seems like it could be the adjustment, does anyone know exactly how to do it maybe with a little more detail than the FAQ.... thanks.

 

which way should it wiggle? side to side or up and down? Before they did the master and line, everything was great clutch was awesome, ever since the pedal is fukked up and it is slipping and the pedal is SOOOO HARD, anyone with any kinda detailed description or knowledge please help, I dontated this morning but i cant search yet.

 

bumppppppppppppppp

 

yea, probably burned out your new clutch, and need bearings... have fun

 

clutch and bearings are 4 weeks old, and have not yet been beaten on at all. Read the whole thread, the problem was my master and line from master to the slave, now my clutch is out of adjustment and the directions in the FAQ arent too detailed.

 

And look out because its the same clutch as you have........

 

This probably does'nt help much but I had a 91 max, And almost same **** happend to me, but my problem was I broke one of the retaining springs in the clutch. The only way I could get my car to move was to shut it off, stick it in gear, press in clutch and start the car and it would drive off my starter. Just got it into my garage, and I put a new stock nissan clutch in it and it worked fine. But of course damn starter was out in two weeks

 

We changed the master and the line and i have the pedal back, now it slips and the pedal feels like sheet, i need to adjust this bish tomorrow.....

 

i'm really sorry to hear about your troubles. i hope you get them figured out quickly and cost effectively.

reading the whole thread, i wanted to say look for hydrolic line leak, which someone else said. then it sounded like u needed to bleed from day 1 anyways, cuz most maximas's clutches catch mid-way up.

well, from there, i think things were complicated/cascaded. I would talk to AAMCO and your clutch disc company and make 1 or the other pay for a new clutch disc.

Jae

 

Yea sounds like the plan, but i will say i got everything adjusted yesterday, pedal feels MUCH better, and grabs where it should. I also have that necessary play in the pedal now....... i have the flu so hopefully one of these days i will get out and drive it and make sure it doesnt slip anymore...

Thanks all for you help. It has been sooooo frustrating. I have put over $4,000.00 in necessary repairs since i bought this car like 4 months ago.

 

kinda late, but the play in the pedal should be up and down.....if the play isnt right, your hydraulic lines fill up with too much fluid and the pressure plate wouldnt release the clutch disk. It would make the pedal stiffer and stiffer to press down as you drive for a few minutes. Thats b/c without the freeplay you're just pumping in more fluid into the lines from the master cylinder, and it never gets released. Most likely the initial moment u got into the car the pedal felt softer and maybe even didnt slip, but after a few minutes it got progressively worse. thats what happens when you convert the auto max to 5spd and dont make a spacer on the firewall.....took me a while to figure that out.

 

WOW you know your stuff bro, that was exactly it, to the T. i adjusted the clutch yesterday, now i have play up and down the clutch grabbs lower, and has not slipped yet. but i think it is still not right. it has gone back to doing what it was doing when i first got it back from the tranny shop 5 weeks ago.

I start car, warm up, put in reverse, back out of garage, put stick in neutral, remove foot from clutch but it is still enguaged in reverse a little, then pops out and im ok. do i need to adjust a little more?

 

just keep fiddling with it. you dont want the clutch to be grabbing right on the floor, nor towards the top. just keep adjusting that rod at your pedal till it feels right. i think the manual says there should be 9/16" of free play. if you had the whole pedal out and the master cylinder out, its easier to understand. The master cylinder has a rod with a fork on the end of it (sort of like a tree branch with a V on the end). that fork connects to the pedal. if you look at the pedal, it has like an oval shaped hole that this fork connects to. because its this shape, the fork has always a loose connection to the pedal. this oval shape lets the fork move back and forth about 1/2 inch, which is your free play. the fork needs this space so that the master cylinder can release the pressure that builds up in the lines when you step on your clutch. so when you wiggle your pedal up and down, the fork doesnt move and the master cylinder is unaffected.

If your car stays in reverse when you change yoru stick into neutral - that doesnt sound right. as soon as you move the shifter out of reverse, reverse should be disengaged. there should be no lag, unlike maybe in an automatic. it does not necessarily mean there is a problem, it could be something else. Its just that your shifter is pretty much solidly connected to your gears..and no gear should have any lag engaging or disengaging.

if you're still fiddling with the freeplay, i suggest not making yoru clutch grab point too low to the floor. My throw out bearing failed when i had it too low. It may not be related to it, just my experience.

 

i think u need to trade engines with me like i told u to back when wwe were in ikea... my 98 could handle the boost better than ur tranny can (lol) and i'll still throw in my door handles if u want!