Ok, I just recieved my amber 1156 LEDs that i bought off ebay (seller is velocity LED) and tried installing them on the front signals. For some reason, when I install them, they do not light up. I know these LEDs work because after fumbling around with them for a while, I decided to install them on the rear signals (also 1156) to verify that they work. And sure enough they work on the rear signals. I first assumed that maybe that my fuse went out, but if I install the original bulbs back, the light comes on. Anyone experience this problem? What gives? the front replacement bulbs are 1156, right?

 

they're 1157s i'm pretty sure. That's what all of mine are, because I like the higher wattage output they can give. It's easy to mod 1156 bulbs to fit 1157 housings...all you do is clip off a nub on the base, and you're set. Looks good, and in some cases (the outer part of the 2 piece headlamps) it helps illumination...

 

Defacto, you sure about that? I'm replacing the front turn signal bulbs and both the owners manual as well as sylvania website states that the turn signal bulbs are 1156. I have a 97 max.

http://www.sylvania.com/bin/carApp/c...xima&x=21&y=12

Front turn signal
Part number = 1156
Upgrade Part Number = 1156LL
Long Life Upgrade - Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

Rear turn signal
Part number = 1156
Upgrade Part Number = 1156LL
Long Life Upgrade - Up to twice the life of the standard lamp

 

funny...i did mine with 1157s, and they're way way brigher than the CLEAR ( they weren't hyperwhites, they were stock bulbs) bulbs. Remember that the car is legal now (no more blue turn signals) and that's thanks to the 1157s... Give it a shot. The 1157s cost me 2.99 at the auto parts store. It's not a big deal...

 

The front turn signals are 1156's. The cornering lights (next to headlights) are 1157's. You dont clip off the nub on an 1156 to make it into an 1157. 1156 bulbs have only one filament and it always runs at 27 or 21 watts (most common wattage). An 1157 bulb has two filaments; one runs at 5 watts all the time and when more juice is activated (turn signal turned on) it lights up the second filament. The mod that your talking about is cutting off the upper nub on an 1157 bulb to make it always run at the higher wattage. An 1156 bulb already runs at that high wattage all the time.

I'm pretty sure about those wattages. Aftermarket bulbs such as polarg, PIAA, rabrig, etc. may have different wattage setups.

 

You are correct! i did the 1157 mod on my corners and i think it looks great!

 

I have the same mod in my corners, thats why I know what I'm talkin' about. The mod only works with an 1157 bulb because the 1156 bulb on has one power output.

 

I was referring to the modding of 1157s to run only high wattage, i'm not that n00bish...my front turn signals came only bubble wrapped, not packaged, with my DC clears, so they're probably 1156es like you said. I didn't get a good look, i just popped 'em in and let my jaw hit the floor . My upper corners, clearance lights, and rear turns I bought, so I know what they are. The upper front corners I did the clip mod to, which looks very nice, and the rear ambers, which i just put on today, for some reason, look WAY brighter than the superwhites and stock clear bulbs I had on before...

 

OK, so is anyone going to be able to help? Lets keep to the subject, I'm just trying to get my new 1156 LEDs to work on the front turn signals. As you can tell, I'm a newbie on this board, all I want to know is how to get these dumb things to work so I know that I haven't wasted my money.

 

Your putting them in the front bumper lights correct? And after you put them in, you turned on your hazards and they didnt flash? I say hazards only because the ignition doesnt have to be on, which is what youd have to do to light it with a turn signal. (obviously). Other than that, I dont understand why they wouldnt work.

 

Correct! I place them in the front bumper lights, and when i hit the hazards to test them out, nothing! I'm wondering if for some reason I'm not getting 12Volts to the front bumpers light outlets? Could this be a problem for the LEDs? not sure to much on LED technology but if I don't get a full 12 Volts, will the diodes not light up? I don't have a voltage meter handy to verify if this is whats happening? Any other thoughts?

 

A while back i had LED's in my inner tail lights and when i turned on my lights, only the regular bulbs (in the outside tails) lit up until the brake pedal was pressed. I dont know why they dont work in your front bumper. That doesnt make any sense. Try doing to research on google about LED's. If its an aftermarket bulb, and is 1157, then the volts wouldnt affect it, because inside the bulb housing are resistors that resist, for lack of a better word, the voltage for the LED's to handle

 

Ok, I think I found the problem. Did some some googling and found this on http://www.superbrightleds.com/1157.htm

"LED bulbs may cause some newer vehicles to indicate a bulb is burnt out (because of their low power consumption). Some cars indicate this by increasing the flash rate of the turn signals, some do not flash at all. This can be remedied with load resistors wired across the turn signal bulbs to simulate a filament bulb load. We have these available by our LED turn signal bulbs in our online shopping cart."

Someone else must have ran into this before, I really doubt I'm the only one here with this problem, or am I?

 

Front turn signals are 1156....... I've never installed LED 1156's but Did you remember that LED's are positive in only one direction? Screw them in one way, if they dont work, screw them in the other way.

If that made any kind of sense

 

interesting.

 

Yes the LED bulb ill make your turn signal click faster and that does get very annoying. Do what Ant96GLE said, see if it works.

 

no your not the only one...I had an extra pair of 1157's and clip off the upper nub, then placed it in my blinkers....they didnt work.

As for switching the way you screw the bulb...wouldn't that NOT make a difference?... since the power comes from the metal conductor, at the bottom of the bulb and then goes out through the sides. The LED's are fixed, so the polarity wouldn't change. correct me if im wrong...

 

blkhawk, I agree! the way the connector is set up on the 1156 bulb, I don't think there is a way to really reverse the polarity. Anyhow i've already tried this the first time after reading about the polarity stuff on LEDS, but it still didn't work.

Anyhow, lets take a poll, who here thinks that the 6ohm resistor thingy that is sold on www.superbrightleds.com will resovle my problem?

 

Before considering adding clip-on resisters, has anyone heard of replacing the thermal flasher unit with an electronic flasher unit that does not depend on current draw to work?
I think these are used for applications like RV trailers where high current overloads the thermal's, but in this case (low current) they might resolve things as well.

 

dude (T,S)1156 (C,L)1157















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