DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

My Chilton Repair Manual has been showing some discrepancies so I really need some assistance on ID'ing a few emissions components. If you have a Nissan service manual, your assistance would be most appreciated.

First.........

Today I was checking some things under the hood while the engine idles and this audible repetitive ticking noise caught my attention. I've heard this before but never really paid attention to it til now. I began to trace it to the source and have concluded that the tick-tick-tick might be coming from this component but I'm unsure what it is. So here's a pic, I'm not sure if this is the EVAP canister purge control valve but I remember that it's black in color not brown. The two yellow arrows is what I need help on identifying it, one yellow arrow with "TICK TICK" is where the noise is coming from and when I put my finger on it, I feel it pulse as it ticks.



Second......

My Chilton manual has a diagram of the EGR system for a VQ30DE engine pointing out that the EGR valve is situated in the rear of the intake manifold. However, this is what I have on my engine. I did find a diagram that is close to what I have but its for a VE30DE. The red arrows with "?" mark is what I need verification in. Let me know also if your VQ30DE isn't set up this way.



BTW, my Maxima has manual transmission. Any help will really be appreciated.

InfamousG

The 1st picture is of your IAC "Idle Air control system", take if off and try cleaing it, check the "how to do's" forums. you may need to replace it if its ticking, try cleanin it tho 1st.


hope that helps

Second pic i'll leave up to some1 else

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for your reply InfamousG. Anyone else? I'm sure there's a handful of you guys that had to deal with the EGR at one point in time.

chris j vurnis

I think I had that same ticking sound a few months back. It showed up once when I checked the codes on my ECU and didn't reset it properly. After the dealer tech reset the ECU, the ticking went away.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

I've already reset the ECU using the Diagnostic Test Mode Selector screw on the ECU. As of now the ECU is showing a 10-05 code which I'm still trying to troubleshoot. The Chilton manual says that its the EGR valve and/or EVAP canister purge control valve. I'm not sure if this is making the idle air control tick, I'm not even sure if one has something to do with the other.

Thanks for the replies so far and keep 'um coming.

Ball2687

can someone please tell me how to clean the IAC i have looked where i know to look and can't find it...sorry

twiggy144

Ball

You may take off the whole tb and take it on a bench. The IAC is attached to the tb. You will be do a better job cleaning the whole thing on a bench.

4 bolts attach the tb to the intake, and some other hoses, connectors. Its an easy job, because I can do it!

iansw

iTrader: (7)

What's on the back of the manifold is the EGR tube.

What you have labeled above is the EGR Valve.

(See diagram for EGR Tube)

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the diagram, so the EGR valve is 14710. The EGRC-BPT valve is 14741.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

iansw, can you provide a zoomed-in diagram of where the evap canister control solenoid valve is? It so hard to locate it with all the vacuum tubes that's going all over the place. Chilton says its suppose to be right next to the EGRC solenoid valve but I can't even find that. They're both suppose to be located nearby or infront of the fuel pressure regulator but again everything is hidden by those darn vacuum tubes.

Thanks again.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Today, while I was working on the EGRC solenoid valve, I also took the IACV off of the intake manifold and cleaned it. I removed the brass cover in the back, held by 3 screws, and sprayed intake cleaner on it to clean off all the build up. I also sprayed some intake cleaner inside the valve, and the inlet pipe at the top of the valve as well. I also removed the two screws infront of the valve and pulled it apart and sprayed some more intake cleaner inside it. There are a lot of carbon build up inside but it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I also pulled the stepper motor apart and looked inside it (there is a spring inside), everything looks nice and clean. I put everything back together and reinstalled the IACV back onto the intake manifold.

I started the engine and let it warm up to operating temps. The ticking seems to have disappeared. However, after driving around for a half hour, the ticking came back but not as loud as before. One thing I noticed that I never noticed before, because I never did it, is that the ticking seems to speed up when revving up the engine. I'm not sure now if the ticking is part of the valve's normal operation but I know I cleaned the whole thing pretty well and did not see anything that would cause the ticking inside. Any suggestions would help grately! Thanks.

-Dennis