Adjusting the clutch
01-15-2004, 11:34 AM
#4
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
There is directions in the Haynes manual I believe. It is real except having to be crunched under the floor board.
The hydrolic rod going fromt the clutch into the fire wall is where you adjust it. Loosen the nut on the rod then turn the rod either clock wise or counter-clockwise for lower or higher engagement points. It only takes a small amount of adjustment to change the engagement so do a little at a time. After adjusting it tighten back the screw.
Make sure you also adjust the cruise control mechanical sensor in the same fashion so you don't loose your cruise. It's all in the haynes I believe.
The hydrolic rod going fromt the clutch into the fire wall is where you adjust it. Loosen the nut on the rod then turn the rod either clock wise or counter-clockwise for lower or higher engagement points. It only takes a small amount of adjustment to change the engagement so do a little at a time. After adjusting it tighten back the screw.
Make sure you also adjust the cruise control mechanical sensor in the same fashion so you don't loose your cruise. It's all in the haynes I believe.
01-15-2004, 02:50 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 245
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
There is directions in the Haynes manual I believe. It is real except having to be crunched under the floor board.
The hydrolic rod going fromt the clutch into the fire wall is where you adjust it. Loosen the nut on the rod then turn the rod either clock wise or counter-clockwise for lower or higher engagement points. It only takes a small amount of adjustment to change the engagement so do a little at a time. After adjusting it tighten back the screw.
Make sure you also adjust the cruise control mechanical sensor in the same fashion so you don't loose your cruise. It's all in the haynes I believe.
The hydrolic rod going fromt the clutch into the fire wall is where you adjust it. Loosen the nut on the rod then turn the rod either clock wise or counter-clockwise for lower or higher engagement points. It only takes a small amount of adjustment to change the engagement so do a little at a time. After adjusting it tighten back the screw.
Make sure you also adjust the cruise control mechanical sensor in the same fashion so you don't loose your cruise. It's all in the haynes I believe.
01-16-2004, 05:57 AM
#10
Originally Posted by ABK
aren't you supposed to adjust it to grab lower to get less slip?
01-16-2004, 07:56 AM
#12
Just as I was talking **** about someone else wearing out their clutch fast, mine is getting a little loosey goosey at 83k. Not bad, but with 4 people in the car the difference is there. It does seem to be engaging higher after the 4 people were in the car...which is odd. I might see if I can adjust it to grab a little lower this weekend and see if that helps.
01-16-2004, 10:02 AM
#14
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
Yes. As clutches wear, they grab higher because the space between the friction plate and the flywheel increases. If your clutch grabs low then any slip you have indicates a worn out clutch. If your clutch grabs right at the end of letting the clutch pedal out, then slip could just be due to bad pedal adjustment, or your clutch might be worn out.
does clutch pedal feel change as the clutch wears, or is adjusted improperly?
I think the first shop I took my car to, to look for leaks and bleed the hydraulics due to an empty master cyl, adjusted my clutch for some reason. Since then I've replaced the hose b/t the master and slave cyl, and got my system bled properly (the second time...I had to fax the shop a pic of where the lower bleeder was, originally they just did it from the upper).
After that, the clutch felt fine for two days, but then went back to its old tricks - after driving it for a while and/or letting it sit for an hour or so and trying to drive it again, the release point raises to the very top of the pedal travel, and the clutch pedal gets notably stiff. At this point, it becomes very prone to slipping.
However, if it's my first drive of the day and its cold, it grabs fairly low, and does not slip at all. It felt fine like this in the two days after I got it back from the shop.
Just curious before I go replacing the master cyl and perhaps other parts, on if I should try lowering the release point first. Think that might help, or does it sound like air is still getting in the system?
edit: my dad thinks that it's coincidental timing, and that my clutch is worn out. But a) wouldn't it slip from the get-go and not be fine for that first 30 minutes of the day? b) does pedal FEEL change when your clutch is going out? I thought it just started slipping - is the pedal stiffening up an indication of clutch wear?
01-16-2004, 10:36 AM
#16
Originally Posted by blizz20oma
Let me ask this...
does clutch pedal feel change as the clutch wears, or is adjusted improperly?
I think the first shop I took my car to, to look for leaks and bleed the hydraulics due to an empty master cyl, adjusted my clutch for some reason. Since then I've replaced the hose b/t the master and slave cyl, and got my system bled properly (the second time...I had to fax the shop a pic of where the lower bleeder was, originally they just did it from the upper).
After that, the clutch felt fine for two days, but then went back to its old tricks - after driving it for a while and/or letting it sit for an hour or so and trying to drive it again, the release point raises to the very top of the pedal travel, and the clutch pedal gets notably stiff. At this point, it becomes very prone to slipping.
However, if it's my first drive of the day and its cold, it grabs fairly low, and does not slip at all. It felt fine like this in the two days after I got it back from the shop.
Just curious before I go replacing the master cyl and perhaps other parts, on if I should try lowering the release point first. Think that might help, or does it sound like air is still getting in the system?
edit: my dad thinks that it's coincidental timing, and that my clutch is worn out. But a) wouldn't it slip from the get-go and not be fine for that first 30 minutes of the day? b) does pedal FEEL change when your clutch is going out? I thought it just started slipping - is the pedal stiffening up an indication of clutch wear?
does clutch pedal feel change as the clutch wears, or is adjusted improperly?
I think the first shop I took my car to, to look for leaks and bleed the hydraulics due to an empty master cyl, adjusted my clutch for some reason. Since then I've replaced the hose b/t the master and slave cyl, and got my system bled properly (the second time...I had to fax the shop a pic of where the lower bleeder was, originally they just did it from the upper).
After that, the clutch felt fine for two days, but then went back to its old tricks - after driving it for a while and/or letting it sit for an hour or so and trying to drive it again, the release point raises to the very top of the pedal travel, and the clutch pedal gets notably stiff. At this point, it becomes very prone to slipping.
However, if it's my first drive of the day and its cold, it grabs fairly low, and does not slip at all. It felt fine like this in the two days after I got it back from the shop.
Just curious before I go replacing the master cyl and perhaps other parts, on if I should try lowering the release point first. Think that might help, or does it sound like air is still getting in the system?
edit: my dad thinks that it's coincidental timing, and that my clutch is worn out. But a) wouldn't it slip from the get-go and not be fine for that first 30 minutes of the day? b) does pedal FEEL change when your clutch is going out? I thought it just started slipping - is the pedal stiffening up an indication of clutch wear?
By the way, I'm not sure I was right about the grabbing point getting higher as the clutch wears. That was the case, if I remember correctly, with a car I had that had a clutch cable. A hydraulic clutch may not do that.
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