Not sure whats really going on, I tried installing some foglights (probably higher wattage, I didn't check) and after a couple days i figured that I didn't like the way they looked so I took them out and replaced them with my stock fogs. A couple days later I realized that my stock fogs weren't turning on. I checked the fuses which was suggested by some members of the forum however all the fuses were ok. Now my clear corners are starting to come on and off upon start up. Like I'll turn on my lights and the left cornering lamp will be out, and then sometimes it'll be the right lamp that'll be out and the left will come on. And on other days... both will stay on... which is the way it should be, but that's somewhat rare.

I haven't checked the harnesses yet, but even if i did i'm not sure what i'd be lookin for? I tried a search on this and got nothing. Any help will be apreciated.

 

Did you put higher wattage bulbs in the stock lights or put aftermarket lights in? What was the wattage? What were the old and new fuse ratings?

Automotive manufacturers design electrical circuits with very little extra current-carrying capacity. 99.5% of their customers don't change the loads (lighting watts), so why should they spend the extra money for components that can handle more amps than are required?

Fuses are sized to protect the wires and switches in a circuit. When you increase the fuse size, you are no longer protecting those devices.

Anything in the circuit could be damaged; the wiring harness, the headlight switch, the fuse block, connectors, relays, etc. The only thing to do is start testing with a volt-ohm meter.

 

yeah i rewired my clears to be brighter. and I put in polarg hiper white bulbs in. I believe they're 35w. I'm not sure i'll have to check. I guess i'll have to find an electrician out there to check up on my electrical stuff since i'm not exactly a guru on the subject. UGh... this is so annoyin.

thanks for the input though. I'll let you know what i find out.

 

Do you have like a Haynes manual for your car? I have one and all the curcuits for it are in there. Get a manual of some kind and look at it, then do like he says, trace along with a volt meter looking for the open or short curcuit.

It'd take 1000 pages to describe what to do to look for it. Without a diagram you really are lost as for knowing how to proceed.

Jack

 

Maybe i'll check the automotive section at barnes today. Where did u get ur manual from?

 

Amazon.com, then I found it cheaper at Pep boys (DOH!)

Jack

 

Do you think a regular car mechanic would know how to find the problem and solve this? Maybe i'll just take it in and have him fix it.

 

I think a good mechanic should be able to. Got deep pockets? I bet it'd cost a bit. Got any friends that are good with electric? Good luck!

Jack

 

JacksMax is right, mechanics typically charge a lot for electrical work. It's really not that hard. The first thing to do is visually inspect wires and sockets for burn marks. You could probably test the circuits with a 12v test probe. You can find one at any parts store for $5-10.

 

NISMO808, what year Max do you have? I have a book on a '96, I think its a '95 to '99 (4th gen, right?). Assuming that you have a 4th gen, this book should be the one you need. I can try to make copies of my Haynes manual and get it to you. The process should be pretty staightforward. Pull the battery cable off and start at the headlights and work back into the whole system part at a time checking for continuity between parts that should be connected, and also independance from ground and other wires that should not be connected. It can be a long process. I'd get a continuity checker and a voltmeter, the rest is pretty much dog work. Check it and check it some more.

Do you have any indications at all of burned wire or connectors?

I remember my sisters car once years ago. The park lights in front would come on with the brake lights when you stop. Took like an hour or so to find the bad wire that day.

Jack