the only guess i have on my car is obviously the ghost 0304 code. basically no CEL on my dashboard, but when i do manually pull the code i get 0304 alone that's it. my sparks only has 20k on it, JWT filter is cleaned like last month. IAC valve was cleaned like 3 months ago. engine coolant temperature sensor was changed like 2 months ago. sythentic oil + OEM nissan filter all the time with octane 91. i do not hear knocks at cold start.

my car pulls really hard when it's not warmed up (probably running lean), but after my car gets hot it hesistate with OD off around 3,000rpm. it backs up a bit then it accelerate noticibly slower. seriously i have no idea WTF is going on...



yea my car hit 100k yesterday, 12:15 p.m. now i'm gettin worried...

 

well we do have a long azz 3rd gear but my car was super slow in all gears until i replaced the knock sensor. i killed a solara v6 on the highway with 4 big peeps in my car( at least700 pounds) in third gear, i hit about 100 and slowed down.

 

with a dead knock sensor, your car might not be "pinping/kncoking" but the ecu does not know that. so it retards the timing anyways. try doing the resistor "mod" and see if it makes a difference

 

here's why i suspect i have ghost 0304 CEL even though CEL doesn't show up on the dash:

on a every 2 week interval, i pull the code manually. and everytime after i pull the code i reset the ECU. the result:

3 out of 4 times i got 0304.

so kev u think it's really the knock sensor right?

 

what do you mean the "resistor mod"? what does it do? where can i get the instruction?

thx for all your help again kev

 

you pull hte connector out htat goes to the knock sensor and you put a 470k resistor there and the ecu will think your engine is not pinging/knocking. i think more info is in one of hte FAQ's the info is from SteVtec


oh ya, incase you wanna check yourself
0304
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0304 points to a problem with the Knock Sensor. The KS is attached to the cylinder block. It senses engine knocking using a piezoelectric element. A knocking vibration from the cylinder block is senses as vibrational pressure. This pressure is converted into a voltage signal and sent to the Engine Control Module (The computer).

This malfunction is detected when an excessively high or low voltage from the KS is entered to the ECM. Possible causes include...
- the harness or connector (The KS circuit is open or shorted).
- the KS

The KS may be checked with an ohmmeter.

1) Raise the hood. View the engine from the driver's fender. Look into
the deep valley between the cylinder banks and below the intake manifold.
Identify the KS as a black item fastened to the block by a single vertical
bolt. A wire harness wrapped in black leads toward you, out of the valley.
That is the KS sub-harness.

2) Follow the KS sub-harness to it's nearest connector. This is connector F121.
It is located near the upper right-hand corner of the valve cover of the forward cylinder bank, as viewed from the front of the car.

3) Disconnect F121. You have to do a "press the latch and wiggle and
pull" to disconnect it. F121 has only two pins; if you see more than two
pins, you have the wrong connector. Use a digital ohmmeter capable of
measuring more than 10 Megohms. You want to measure the pins of F121, not
the sockets of the matching connector. Measure the resistance between a
good ground (such as the battery negative terminal) and pin #2 of connector
F121. On my car this is the highest of the two pins, the one closest to
the front of the car. The factory spec is 500 - 620 Kohms.

The manual says you have to remove the intake manifold to replace the KS. However, I think that a person with good dexterity and a 10mm ratcheting box wrench could replace the KS without disturbing the manifold.

Important note: the dealer can do a more thorough test with his CONSULT electronic tester. The resistance test described here is a useful but limited test. A Knock Sensor which fails this test is definitely bad. However, a KS which passes this test is not guaranteed to be good.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...3&postcount=42

here is the post

 

so i follow those two 10mm bolt's harness to locate the F121?

 

naaaa, on motorvates site, look at hte pic that shows the knock sensor, under the intake manifold. You will see hte knock sensor, follow the black cord to hte harness, it will be to the right of the manifold near the plastic vavle cover that says NISSAN

 

daymn it i knew i was in "Safe" ignition map!!

ugh... doesn't sound too good. i think i should just replace the knock sensor for good.

 

thx! this is a great souce!

yea i think i will just get a new knock sensor. i should give her a new knock sensor since she just hit 100k

 

its 90$ off ebay. that is where i got mine. Install, I hopeyou have small hands, follow the instructions that are in the 4th gen howto's

 

Could anyone give me a little bit more detailed explination of how the resistor is supposed to be wired in. I haven't taken a look yet, but from what I gather, there should be two wires in that harness and you basically unplug the KS and close the loop back up with a 470k resistor.

 

This mornings auction for an Ebay KS went for $94.99 (plus $6.00 S&H). Bite the bullet and call Courtesy Nissan Parts (Bruce) and get the Knock Sensor Kit - Maxima 1995 to 1999 - part# 22060-A32. He gave me a maxima.org discount @ $147. delivered. The kit comes with the small wire harness and KS. I noticed in the part picture that the harness end connecting to the KS has a small rubber boot that my current configuration is missing. This could explain the KS not working due to corrosion? My car runs great even in the "limp mode" with the timing retarded. I can't wait to see what the accelleration is like with the new KS and the new Warpspeed Y pipe. It's been an expensive week.... Be Safe, Mark V.