ok this all started saturday night while me and 3 others were driving around. whenever i floor it and it gets to like 2-3 thousand rpm my car would kinda shake back and forth and the rmp would very slightly go down and up and down and up untill redline, not very noticable, but enough. and today it's still doing the same thing i don't know whats wrong. sometimes when i'm stopped in drive it will do the same thing but not when i'm in neutral so i'm guessing it's my tranny. o and whenever i floor it the check engine light blinks like 30 times. ( my CEL is always on it just blinks when i do that) hopefully u guys understand kinda what i'm describing it's hard to explain. thanks

o i just went out and checked codes and these are what they are
0608
0903
1008
1305

 

0603 0604 0605 0606 0607 0608
If one cylinder is misfiring the problem is spark or fuel. A misfire due to a spark problem usually results in a Service Engine Soon light and one of these Diagnostic Trouble Codes:
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire

There are two tests the home mechanic can make, the sound test and the resistance test.

Sound test...
This test is performed with the engine idling. Use a mechanic's
stethoscope or a length of rubber vacuum hose, and listen to each injector.
All injectors should sound alike. If you find one which makes a different
sound (or no sound at all) you have found a problem.

Resistance test...
This test is performed with the engine off. Use an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance of each injector. This does not require removing the injectors.
I don't know the correct resistance value for the injectors on your model,
but they are typically a low number such as 16 ohms. The important thing
is they should all be equal. If you find one injector with substantially
higher resistance than the others, it is bad. If you find one with zero
ohms (short circuit) that is truly unfortunate, because the injector is bad
and it may also have damaged the Engine Control Module (the computer)
because of excessive current drain.

Measuring the resistance of the front bank of cylinders is easy because the
injectors are in plain view. Disconnect the injector electrical connector
for cylinder #2, measure the resistance, reconnect the connector. Repeat
for the cylinders #4 and #6.

Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.

The dealer's shop is equipped with high-tech diagnostic instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time. Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with nothing more than a ohmmeter and a rubber tube.

To Test Ignition Coils:
With the ignition off, disconnect the electrical connector from the ignition coil. Connect the positive (+) probe of an ohmmeter to terminal no. 1 and the negative (-) probe to terminal no. 2 of the coil connector - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. Reverse the meter leads ( negative probe to terminal no. 1 and positive probe to terminal no.2) - the continuity should be indicated, but not zero ohms. If the results are not as specified, replace the coil.
Connect an ohmmeter between the secondary terminal ( the one that the spark plug connects to) and terminal no. 1 - the meter should indicate infinite resistance. If not, replace the coil.




0903
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0903 indicates a problem with the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Vent Control Valve or its associated electric circuit.

This part is used by the Engine Control Module to perform the fuel system leak test. Since it is used only for self-diagnosis your engine will run perfectly well despite the dashboard Malfunction Indicator Lamp.

The EVAP canister and this valve are located under the car, near the rear left tire. You might check to make sure all the electrical connectors in that area are secure.

There's no telling how expensive the repair will be, because no definite diagnosis has been made. Maybe you just have to re-plug a loose connector. Since the EVAP system is part of the emissions control system you might have warranty coverage.

1008
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. Diagnostic Trouble Code 1008 is set when the Engine Control Module (the computer) detects an improper signal through the valve. The problem is likely to be in the electrical wiring, harness, or the valve itself.

Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.

The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses. It is directly above the ignition coil connector for cylinder #5 and has to be removed in order to replace the #5 coil or spark plug.

You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=265311



1305
Fuel Pump Control Module

 

thanks for all that info kevlo, better go get to work i guess. which one would most likely be the cause of my shaking rpm dropping? i know my evap was messed up when i bought the car tho. could it possibly be my fuel pump going bad? how could i check that?

 

First thing I'd do is replaced the fuel filter. Could be a stopped up filter causing the engine starving for fuel.

 

ok get this i just checked the codes again for no reason and i'm no longer getting the 1305 now i'm getting an 0801 which is Vacuum cut balve bypass valve what the heck is this? i'm lost?? might have to just take it to a shop

ok just before i checked the codes i connected two wires by the evap that were cut and now i'm getting the 0801 but not the 1305 which code is better to throw? man this is so confusing

 

0801
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0801 points to a problem with the Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve. The malfunction is detected when an improper voltage signal is sent to the Engine Control Module through the VCVBV. The possible causes of this problem include a defect with the wiring or electrical connector, or with the valve itself. The VCVBV is located under the car, near the rear left tire. It is near the Evaporative Emission Canister but not mounted directly on it.

The VCVBV is a solenoid-controlled air valve. You may remove it from the vehicle and perform a bench test. There are two air hose nipples on the valve. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric connector. The polarity doesn't matter. With the VCVBV solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.

 

i'm also having a problem with a weird noise when my car starts how can i post a 4 second video that i took of this? i'm goin out right now and gonna check the resistence of my injectors hopefully i can pinpoint it. would that be the cause of a weird noise when i start the car?