aznsap

iTrader: (29)

i remember reading a while ago about people who had this problem. well i have the same problem, the pistons won't go in even if you turn them in the caliper. do i need to replace the whole caliper or can i just get a caliper kit? where have you guys purchased them and how hard was the install? thanks.

Ant96GLE

iTrader: (4)

DId you try the square tool which you attach a rachet to?

aznsap

iTrader: (29)

i didn't myself but a brake place did and the piston would not go in. either way, i tried turning it with needle nose pliers, and it shouldn't have been THAT difficult, but it was. if anybody knows what i need to purchase and change, i would appreciate it.

Bmr4life

happened to me. Only way to get mine to go in was to rip the already torn boot off and use a pair of vise grips and it was extremely difficult. I just replaced the entire calipers, total was a little under $140 for both.

aznsap

iTrader: (29)

the entire calipers come with the piston correct? where did you purhcase them from? thanks in advance

Jepht20

iTrader: (10)

damn that's a good price! i got ripped off for mine but needed to get them done right away and couldn't wait.

sryth

You have a couple options...you can buy a kit from Nissan (~$33) or get a new set of calipers.

I'd go for the rebuild, myself...you get to keep your Nissan calipers!

But, if this doesn't matter to you, and you have more money than time, get the rebuilt calipers.

Pappa Grande

Just check prices with your local auto parts store.
by the way, you would never be able to turn "frozen" calipers with needle nose pliars. You need the ratchet tool. I had the same problem, and all though hard as hell, I was able to turn the piston back in. The tool is only a couple of bucks.

bosa1

I've had to replace both rear calipers due to them being frozen. Cost was 150, you get 75 bucks back from the core charge when done. I wouldn't mess with a rebuild kit, my sanity is wanning enough when working on rusted out parts of my car.

I figure if I'm doing all the labor myself, I am way ahead in the pricing game and only out 75 bones plus the cost of new brake pads.

Bmr4life

i got mine from advanced auto parts and they come with everything that you will need including new little fittings and such. you just need more brakefluid for when you bleed the system. I don't remember the price before the core charge, but after they're only ~$70 each.

also, you got lucky finding out that both were bad at the same time. One of mine froze up on me so I only ordered one. But since rotors and pads come in pairs, I had to do both sides. Did the first, got the second only to find out this caliper was busted to, just hadn't started to sieze up yet.

aznsap

iTrader: (29)

hey thanks. so the complete caliper replacement you can get at advanced auto parts for ~$70 each. does it matter what brand it is?

Bmr4life

pretty sure theres only 1 brand

Drstove

iTrader: (18)

Hey did the brake place have the right tool cause i bought my max and the calipers were said to be froze before i bought it and all i did was go and buy new brake pads and i used my tool to turn and compress thr piston at the same time . My tool is made by blue point and it has the same look as a front brake caliper tool but it has a hollow shaft for an extension and different discs for various pistons . The threaded shaft ha a handle made to it and you turn that after u have made a turn on the ratchet and it will compress all the way in .

Drstove

iTrader: (18)

the reason that the probally locked up is that im not saying u did but you went to long before changing the rear pads the 4th gens are funny like that some u can let get low but others wont allow it an freeze the caliper because the piston is out to far

aznsap

iTrader: (29)

possibly. i was told at firestone, which had the right tools, the frozen caliper was cause for uneven brake wear. one pad was worn to the metal and the other still had padding left, it was so uneven. at any rate, i think i may have to just get replacement calipers and trade in my old messed up ones. thanks.

sryth

By 'one pad was worn...and the other still had padding left' are you referring to a single caliper, or 'the driver's side was worn down and the passenger's side still had padding left'?

If the inside pad in the caliper is worn down, but the outside pad is fine, you probably just need new caliper pins. This is not very expensive, and you don't even have to remove the calipers to replace them.

Now, if you meant 'both pads on one side are worn more than the pads on the other', then that's a differnet story altogether.

Frank Fontaine

Yeah, I've seen that square fitting and cannot imagine how that's supposed to do the same thing as the correct tool. The correct tool not only has the fitting but it is like a reverse C-clamp--as it tightens, it turns the piston AND spreads out so it is pushing the piston in. A square tool with a ratchet is nothing more than like using a socket on a nut. Where's the force going to come from in the inward direction? The correct tool costs $31 online and is worth it over the $8 square thing imho. For those who are not following the description, there are 2 things going on with the correct tool, and it seems like only 1 with the square.

A5295

iTrader: (1)

i think my rear calipers are trying to lock on me as well-forgive me, but what is the square tool you guys keep talking about? I haven't actually looked at the rear barakes on my car since it went down, but will be looking at them this week after i get it back out of the shop... I know my front brakes aren't in great shape, as i have a nice groove around the rotor on the front drivers side... but my rears have been fine, up until recently they started to act like they didnt' want to release when i let down the emergency brake...

aznsap

iTrader: (29)

yes im talking about one caliper. the outside was worn down to the metal, while the inside pad still had much more padding left. this was on the driver's side rear.

aznsap

iTrader: (29)

yes im talking about one caliper. the outside was worn down to the metal, while the inside pad still had much more padding left. this was on the driver's side rear.

sryth

Well, your caliper pins might be messed up. Are you going to do the installation of the new calipers yourself? If so, you might want to check out your old ones before buying the new ones. If it's just a couple of new pins and some grease that solves your problem, you're golden.

aznsap

iTrader: (29)

how do i know if that's my problem? all i know is that if i turn the piston in the caliper, it won't move. i kno my brakes work though because when i brake, i hear the metal rubbing against my rotor.

sryth

Does your caliper slide freely on the pins when you swing it up?

Also, sorry if these questions sound stupid, but did you disconnected the ebrake cable? Is the brake master cylinder cap off when you attempt to turn these in?

You might want to try opening the bleeder valve (get a pan ready) and giving it one last attempt to turn them in.

aznsap

iTrader: (29)

yes i did alll those thanks. yes teh caliper slides freely on the pins. after that i took it into firestone, and they even showed me it was broke. they said they'd replace the pads, rotors and calipers, but didn't have calipers on hand at the time.

Frank Fontaine

They're going to tell you that every time, simply because they really don't get into it too deeply. Anything that "appears" to take any more force than necessary, they'll tell you to replace. Plus, they are not even going to attempt to work on your caliper because if they do bend the piston, it's their bad. No risk involved in telling you to replace everything. Without the correct tools, I wouldn't simply assume the caliper is frozen.

not recommended tool 1

recommended tool 2

The 2nd tool is recommended over and if you search the web it's like $31. That is able to turn the piston and compress it, because it has a plate that resembles a brake pad, and as it's being turned it spreads out, which in effect forces the piston in. That cannot be accomplished with a ratchet. I am not positive but maybe on a new caliper the piston can go in by simply turning it, but that's like trying to tighten a bolt without a wrench. There is only so much force you can put on it.

sryth

For what it's worth, my pistons were very hard to turn in. I couldn't turn them in with a pair of needle nose pliers as everyone suggested. I bought the tool, and they were still a ***** to turn in...but after putting forth a lot of effort, I managed to turn them in.

Try really really hard!

As for this tool that looks like a normal piston compressor but rotates...is this thing threaded the same as the piston? Other wise if the thread count is too much, it'll push too slow, if it's to few, it'll push fast...it seems to me like it'd have to be pretty damn close to work.

I'd love to find one of these tools...anyone have a link?

[edit]I just noticed the link to the tool...sweet! I'll definitely buy one the next time I do my brakes.[/edit]

aznsap

iTrader: (29)

oh ya at firestone they had that tool. it looked like it was pressing against the caliper and as you turned it, it was supposed to expand. BUT, my pistons were not going back into the calipers. Im pretty sure i have read threads long ago where 4th gens have had this problem. my car is a '95 purchased in oct of '94, so i guess i should expect problems like this. i'm thinking i may just replace the whole caliper.