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Are Brake Lines Hard to Install ??

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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 06:38 PM
  #1  
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Are Brake Lines Hard to Install ??

Im starting to get my brake setup ready to order (New Rotors, painting Calipers Silver, and pads) and i was wondering if metal brake lines are really hard to install ??

scale from 1-10...10 being hard

I did do an intake manifold installation but that was pretty straight forward...

-matt
Old Feb 24, 2004 | 06:43 PM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by matty
Im starting to get my brake setup ready to order (New Rotors, painting Calipers Silver, and pads) and i was wondering if metal brake lines are really hard to install ??

scale from 1-10...10 being hard

I did do an intake manifold installation but that was pretty straight forward...

-matt
not really....just unscrew the lines and screw on the new ones and bleed.
its alot easier then the manifold...i say a 2 or 3. 1 being replacing a shift ****.
Old Feb 24, 2004 | 06:46 PM
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As long as the brake fittings from the soft line to the hard line aren't overtorqued from factory (most are), I'd say 2. If the soft brass fittings are overtorqued, and there's no way to remove them without damaging the fitting on the hard line side, which is a distinct possibility, you'll need to cut the end of the hard line off, buy a new fitting, and reflare. In that case, I'd say a 3, just because it's time consuming as hell.
Old Feb 24, 2004 | 07:39 PM
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here is the deal - SS lines are very easy to install if you: have good quality Vice-grips and PB rust blaster or WD-40 will do, the 10mm nut should come off really easy in rear , but the fronts have some kind of lock-tie on them and thats where the Vice -grips comes handy - most likely you will round off the front 10 mm nut even if you try to use 10mm flare nut wrench. - Trust them Vice -grips to save your day !!!

also spending $40 on set of speedbleaders makes the brake bleeding pure pleasure !!!

buy at leat 3 bottles of brake fluid and don't let the master cylinder run dry.

pm me if you have any Q's

Nick.
Old Feb 24, 2004 | 07:54 PM
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thank you... I am going to save this post for when I do the install..

-matt
Old Feb 24, 2004 | 08:18 PM
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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 10:21 PM
  #7  
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Im just worried cause I have 130K on my car and I have a feeling those bolts are gonna be tyte and I am going to have a hard time gettin them off

-matt
Old Feb 25, 2004 | 04:06 AM
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mine were tight as well when I installed the SS, but vice-grips helped. Best of luck.

O
Old Feb 25, 2004 | 07:39 AM
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I did a complete brake job recently: pads, rotors, painted calipers, lines, fluid, speedbleeders. I had no trouble with the lines at all (140K miles).
Old Feb 25, 2004 | 08:02 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by bhmax
I did a complete brake job recently: pads, rotors, painted calipers, lines, fluid, speedbleeders. I had no trouble with the lines at all (140K miles).
Try to avoid vice grips and use them only as a last resort. To do the job right, you should go out and get a 10mm flare nut wrench. It comes usually in a set of three wrenchs. I was able to break the lines free with the flare nut wrench on 3 of the 4 wheels. The last wheel (isn't it always the last?), the nut would not come loose with the flare nut wrench. So I had to use vice grips to loosen and tighten that break line. Hopefully, I will never have to service that front left brake line again since I will most likely have to put a new fitting in then. It is not terribly difficult; just time consuming as everyone else has said. Also, when bleeding, make sure you get all of the air out. I thought I did the first time I bled the brakes and, sure enough, I hadn't. I had to jack the car up again, and bleed the brakes all over again. After that, it was perfect.
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