emax02

iTrader: (1)

I just ordered a Centerforce Stage III Clutch and a Stillen Alluminum Flywheel for my I30. Anways I am contimplating om installing the Clutch and Flywheel my self. I ordered a alighnment tool and throw out bearing{s?}.What I need to know is what tools will I need exactly? I think it is a safe bet to say that I need a Jack that is designed to hold,lower and move my tranny,Corrrect? How much does the tranny weigh?{estimate?}. Also if you could give me a basic run down on the install and estimated time that would be great! BTW I have never tooled with a tranny before but I learn incredibly fast. About 8 months ago I never took a wrench to a car in my life and since then I have installed springs, shock,hole exaust system,Super Charger,Body kit,bumper,grill headlights and tons of other things,so now I would like to broaden my ability to work on my car and do this install. Thanks for any help, It is much appreciated!

BTW I do have a service manual,but hearing actual experience is a far better tool.

MADMAN

iTrader: (1)

now your dealing with tranny work! impressive. good luck

Daniel B. Martin

Replacing the clutch is a job which can be done in the driveway by an intermediate-to-advanced home mechanic. I'd budget a full day for this job. Better still, two half-days. If you do the job in two half-days you are less likely to become fatigued. When you get tired, that's when mistakes get made.


You will need:
- a manual to guide you (Chilton or Haynes will do).
- an assortment of ordinary hand tools including socket wrenches.
- a good floor jack and pair of sturdy jackstands (two pairs are preferable).
- a socket wrench to fit the big axle nut.
- a tie rod end separator tool.
- a ball joint separator tool.
- a catch pan for draining the transaxle.
- a funnel for filling the transaxle.
- a can of Frog Juice (WD-40 or equivalent)
- lots of absorbent rags or paper towels.

Inexpensive "pickle fork" separator tools will work, but they may tear the rubber boot. There is also an expensive separator tool (it looks like a gear puller) which won't damage the boot. Some parts suppliers offer a no-charge loan of special tools when you buy the parts from them. Ask about that.

Towards the end of the job you will install the large nut on the end of the axle. The torque spec for this nut is somewhere around 200 foot-lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench, that's okay. Just make it as tight as you can, and that's tight enough.

Replacing the clutch involves removing both axle shafts. Evaluate the condition of your Constant Velocity joints and their protective boots before doing the tear-down. They may need replacement, and it is labor-saving to make this repair as part of the clutch replacement job.

I'm not aware of any online guide for doing a 4Gen clutch replacement. However, it is worth your time to read about clutch jobs on other models of Nissan. Look at:
http://ai.eecs.umich.edu/people/rcho...job/index.html and
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaver...-r/clutch.html

emax02

iTrader: (1)

You have been a great help to me more then once now, Take care.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

I have done 3-4 clutch jobs on a maxima so far. Removing the tie rod ends or any of the kingpins was not necessary. Hell the last time I didn't even remove the pass side cv joint. But for the 1st timer, I would remove both cv joints.

Here is some advice to save you some time.
1) drain the tranny oil 1st!
2) Buy some synthetic tranny fluid for the refill
3) Buy two new tranny output shaft seals. They are only a few bucks.
4) Consider buying a new pilot shaft bearing but 90% of the time it's not necessary. It's also a ***** to get out.
5) Consider renting a tranny jack, unless you want your tranny to fall on your foot when removing it. Also the tranny jack will save alot of time upon re-installation. It really helps to get the input spline lined up correctly to the splines on the pressure plate.
6)Since your replacing the flywheel, you had better get access to a air wrench w/ at least a 100ftlb capacity or a flywheel block to prevent the turning of the flywheel when taking the 6 flywheel bolts off.
7)To take that one huge cv joint bolt off, make sure you have a big enough socket. I use a 1" drive stocket. The size is like 1 1/16 or something large. You will also need a fairly long breaker bar to attach to the end of the wrench(hence the need for the 1" drive) and a stong 3' bar to keep the wheel from turning(ie.. place inbetween the wheel studs)
8) If you don't have any friends, make at least one fast, it's really a two man job to actually remove and install the transmission. You can do it w/ one person but you had better at least have the tranny jack or your screwed.

Good luck, this message will self destruct in 5 seconds.

Daniel B. Martin

Good idea. Another possibility is a transmission adapter for your floor jack. See http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/taf...itemnumber=507

This might hurt the wheel studs. I prefer a different technique. As a first step (even before you jack the car) have an assistant sit in the driver's seat, shift into first gear, and press on the brake pedal. At that time use your big socket and breaker bar. Don't be ashamed to put a "cheater" (a length of pipe) on the handle of the breaker bar. That axle nut is tight!

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Danial, I've done the wheel stud thing many, many times. By far the greatest amount of strain is put on the bar and not the wheel studs. I know becuase I've bent a few bars myself trying to get the nut off.